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Florida Jim

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With cheese and crackers:

2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Moulin a Vent:

(Sometimes a wine has such a striking aroma that you wonder if its just you recalling a scent from your past . . .) this had the strong smell of elderberries fresh from the garden with some spice and earth tones; structured in the mouth and plenty of grip – at first I did not think there was enough fruit but after an hour or so open, it took on a rounder, denser mouth-feel and the fruit came alive; medium length, slightly tannic. Needs at least two years down and, I suspect, more. Imported by Henry Wine Group, 13% alcohol and about $12. Good wine and good with the cheese.

With meat loaf and Caesar salad:

2001 J.N. Moreira, Poeira:

Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Fransceca, Souzao, Tinta Cao and Tinta Roriz (traditional port grapes, in this case, made as table wine), and carries 13% alcohol. The initial smell is one similar to a high-end California cabernet that sees plenty of wood – there’s a light note of sourness to it, although this wine did not actually smell of wood but rather the high-toned smell of unfortified port – not raisened or overripe but intensely fruity; full bodied in the mouth but not chunky or heavy, dense with fairly deep flavors that are more fresh fruit than port-like and mostly in the black fruit spectrum, good structure and balance, plenty of concentration and, if not for a fine-grit tactile sensation, seamless; long, balanced finish. I did not like that initial smell but there is so much good stuff below it and on the palate that I think this has a lot of promise in the cellar; certainly, the blend supports that theory. Good wine now, perhaps much better later. Even better, paired with this dish. Imported by Eric Solomon and about $40.

With leftover meatloaf and salad for lunch:

2004 Clos Roche Blanche, Pineau d’Aunis Rosé:

Diane likes it so I’ll be ordering more . . . imported by Louis/Dressner and 12% alcohol. A sort of rhubarb and freshly picked herb nose with just a hint of minerality; the same on the palate with the minerality taking on a larger role and a salty aspect and the fruit is quiet and attenuated, ample acidity and intensity, and a surprising, long finish. An ideal wine for vegetarian cuisine or for those who have salads for lunch, as it seems to be made to pair with such fare. Certified organic.

Dinner with friends:

With pistachios and aged gouda:

2004 Dom. de la Pepiere, Muscadet Sevre et Maine:

Another Louis/Dressner wine, 12% alcohol and about $10; citrus, lime skin, wet stones, and fresh air on the nose; substantial viscosity but bright and loaded with cut, flavors follow the nose and add sassafras and white pepper accents, concentrated with complexity (despite its youth), quite intense, nice balance; and excellent length. Showing young and clean with amazing fruit for a Muscadet and great structure. Good with the food and equally so without.

Every year, Marc Olivier produces one of the finest and cleanest QPR wines on the planet. But it is more than ‘bang for the buck’ juice; it is plain and simple, great wine regardless of price.

As Zachary says, I would buy this wine at twice the price.

and,

2000 Dom. Thomas & Fils, Sancerre La Crêle:

Unpleasant from the get go; sour cut-grass nose with a similar flavor and little sustain. Past prime, poorly stored or, most likely, badly made.

With wild salmon with fava bean purée, baby green salad and roasted sweet potatoes:

1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

Chambolle-esque nose with considerable secondary development; black fruit on both the nose and palate turning slightly metallic and truffled; resolved yet still well-balanced; medium length finish. Good but not great alone; likewise with the food.

and,

1999 Jean-Luc Colombo, Châteauneuf du Pape Les Bartavelles:

Mineral driven aromatics with cooked (not raisend) fruit and an earthiness that keeps it complex; salty minerality on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, intense, concentrated, balanced, no oak showing and persistent. A fine showing for a wine and maker I usually avoid – lesson learned.

With goat cheese with fennel pollen and lavender drizzled with honey and sprinkled with almonds: Espresso.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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