WTN: 2001 Jean Foillard Morgon “Côte du Py"

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2001 Jean Foillard Morgon “Côte du Py,” $25, 13% alc.: I tried this wine based on the strong recommendation of my friend and colleague Putnam Weekley, and it’s something of a revelation. I’ve never been a fan of Gamay, but then, I’ve never had the likes of this before. My experience with quality Cru Beaujolais was pretty much limited to a few bottles of 2001 Chateau Thivin en Beaujolais Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie Geoffray, a nice wine and no doubt, but not the one that would convert me. That was to remain for this one to do, and it has accomplished that task admirably. Ruby garnet in color, it exudes a lovely perfume, and perfume is the only term that does these aromatics justice, a lovely perfume of sweet cherry, cranberry and strawberry, with spice and floral overtones, all of which echo and expand in the silky smooth flavors. In the mouth, the wine has a not – quite – delicate personality; I say not – quite – delicate because despite the silky texture and medium weight, there’s a rich concentration to the flavors, leading into a long, lingering finish. The wine has structure, but it’s almost hidden, such is its balanced and harmonious nature. This is real wine, one that relies on no winemaking gimmicks or tricks; it’s all about good work in the vineyard and honest winemaking.

I rarely sit down to write and post notes on a wine while still drinking it, but this is indeed one of those uncommon occasions. I just hope there’s more of this left at Cloverleaf, because if there is, I’m going back to get more tomorrow. I also have the feeling that my friends Blackwood, Meehan, Cook and Cowan may have some other gems such as this to enlighten me with, now that I’m a believer.

Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

Reporting from Day-twah,

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