WTN: 95-Pointers at slapshot’s

[geo t.]

A most excellent offline tasting was held on the eve of Super Bowl XXXVIV, with members of the Michigan contingent of the Wine Spectator Online Forums in attendance. (Those forums are not “real names” required, so that protocol is not observed in this report.) The gathering was hosted by Mr. and Mrs. slapshot, and attendees included Thomas23162, WineO, K. Syrah, zinfanman, napacat, 69lafite and a host of friends and loved ones. bez780 was sorely missed, all the more so for contributing a 1997 Chateau Montellena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and a 1996 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages, as well as a variety of Michigan cheeses.

The theme of the event was “US red wines with a WS or RP rating of 95 or better and ready to drink now,” and it was an impressive lineup indeed. There wasn’t a dog in the bunch, and everything paired well with K. Syrah’s pork loin roast and napacat’s slow-cooked leg of lamb, not to mention a variety of other victuals, including some killer venison mini-skewers.

Upon arrival, we wasted little time getting right to the wine and food; here are my “snapshot” notes on the wines I tasted:

1987 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alc.: Slightly murky, rusty dark garnet, not showing much on the nose, but nice dusty cocoa, black currant and cassis flavors show some earthy undertones. Thick and a little chunky, with some fuzzy heat on the finish. Still tannic? Yes, but not so much so that you can’t appreciate and enjoy it now.

1982 Silver Oak Alexander, 12.9% alc.: Rusty ruby garnet, with caramel, toffee, red currant, black cherry and just a hint of sour milk on the nose; flavors echo nicely, losing the sour moo juice, with a very soft mouth feel that one taster described as “like butter.” Shows true Cabernet character with a bit of earth underneath it all – smooth, rich, long and harmonious.

1990 Dominus, 13% alc.: Slightly rusty dark garnet, with a slightly funky, earthy cassis and black currant bouquet accented with hints of cedar and toffee. napacat described this as “years from being ready,” and while it is still tannic, I enjoyed it for what it is, being thick, full – bodied and quite Bordeaux – like, with a long fin. K.Syrah, WineO and zinfanman described this with a single word, “testosterone.” Delish with the venison skewers.

1996 Dominus, 14.1% alc.: Dark garnet, showing a bit of rust, with deep, dense and concentrated flavors and aromas of black currant and licorice, shaded with subtle overtones of oak and hints of aquarium and cedar. Thick and rich, there’s still a good dose of tannins here, but it drinks well with some air. It’s “more California” than the ’90, according to napacat.

1988 Opus One, 12.5% alc.: A slightly rusty ruby garnet, with big, lovely cassis, black and red currants, cedar and tobacco on both nose and palate; rich and luscious, with tannins mostly resolved and a long creamy finish. Very smooth and a real pleasure to drink, especially with the slow cooked lamb.

1994 Beringer Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, 13.3% alc.: Dark garnet, with just a hint of rust; toasty cedar, black cherry and cassis nose, and bright flavors that really show the oak, but not adversely for this taster. Sweet and lovely, ultra smooth and creamy, with fully resolved tannins.

1985 Beringer Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, 13.5% alc.: Slightly rusty dark garnet, with a little sour milk and spice that somewhat obscures the black and red fruit on the nose; on the palate, black and red currants, black cherry and sweet spice, with just a hint of mustiness. Surprisingly, not quite as smooth as the ’94, but still works well with the roast pork loin.

1997 Viader, 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc.: Dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim; fragrant spicy cassis and blackberry with a nice kiss of oak on the nose. Flavors echo, with notes of tobacco and chocolate, along with moderate, unobtrusive tannins that show the most on the fin. Very nice; more fruit forward and less Bordeaux – like than a recently tasted '94.

1997 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% alc.: Dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, with aquarium, earth, a little tar, black currant and cassis character; rich, medium full to full – bodied, a sleek, classic Montelena. This needs lots of time, but it’s all here, so try again in 3 – 5 years.

1996 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages, 14.4% alc.: An inky garnet, fading to pink, with chocolate, black currant, blackberry and plum flavors and aromas; rich, smooth and creamy, and for me, surprisingly enjoyable, since I’ve never been a fan of this blend, but then it WAS WS WOTY, so it HAS to be good, right? Still showing some tannins, so this can sit a while longer.

1999 Turley Hayne Vineyard Zinfandel, 16.8% alc: I’ve rarely met a Turley that I didn’t like, and this deep, dark garnet is no exception; an effusive, jammy nose of black raspberry, mulberry and blueberry almost explodes from the glass and on to the palate with that big, classic character that’s so distinctive and typical of this producer. Showing just a little heat on the finish, but not enough to bother this taster. Classic Turley!

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to the 2001 Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon or the 2002 Lewis Alec’s Blend before they were drained, so I can’t give impressions of those, but by all accounts, they were very well received. Just as we were about to leave, slapshot opened a 2002 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, and while my notebook and pen were already put away for the night, I can relate my surprise at how rich, fruit forward and delicious it is for so young a wine. Not particularly tannic, this isn’t just approachable, it’s downright drinkable, and made for a terrific end to a delightful evening.

Many thanks to Mr. and Mrs. slapshot for hosting this great tasting, and to all who attended for their contributions of great wine, great food and good cheer. This is a fun group to hang out with, and we’re looking forward to future encounters of the wine kind with them.

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

Edited February 7, 2005 by geo t. (log)