WTN: 1994 Viader

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From A Quirky Vertical of Left Coast Cabs

1994 Viader, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Cabernet Franc, $33.99, 13% alc.: We liked this much better than one critic seems to have, based on a recent score of 82; we found nothing "oxidized" in our bottle, so the "cellar from heck" seems to be doing what it's supposed to. Dark garnet in color, slightly rusty at the rim, this shows tobacco and cigar box right away on the nose, with rich black currant, cassis, blackberry and plum jumping up to take over on the palate. Moderate tannins make this tasty right out of the bottle (we passed it back and forth for over half an hour), and while not quite velvety, the smooth texture adds to the pleasure. If there's a complaint here, it's that the finish fades a little sooner than I'd like, but it's a small complaint. More Bordeaux - like than your mainstream Napa claret, and all the better for it, this is a fine match for Kim's hearty beef stew with corn meal dumplings and sides of sautéed portabella mushrooms and acorn squash with melted blue cheese. It would appear that Delia Viader was right on the money when she advised drinking her wines either shortly after release or at 10 years of age.

Reporting from Day-twah,

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