Il Buco (Sorrento)

[Matthew Grant]

I had a meal on Saturday that put many UK one stars to shame and would also have embarrassed a couple of 2 star restaurant. The restaurant in question doesn’t have a single star, in fact it has 2 knifes and forks.

Il Buco is a pretty basement restaurant in Sorrento, refined, with nice cutlery, glassware, outstanding service. It has a few tables outside which presumably are used during the summer. It had been recommended to us by the receptionist at our hotel who looked delirious with excitement at the merest mention of the restaurant.

Now we’re not normally massive Italian food fans so ignoring regional specialities we enquired after White truffles. The Maitre D’ (what’s he called in Italian?) advised that he did indeed have white truffles and could replace the pasta course in the degustazione (sp.?) but recommended that we stick with the original menu all the way through because of the way it was balanced. Boy was he right! The meal that proceeded was a masterpiece of simplicity, good ingredients and balance.

An Amuse of a miniature pastry filled with Mozarella and basil sat atop 3 sweet baby tomatoes was a pleasant start to the meal.

Codfish with a Lavender crumb, lemon, olive oil and an Artichoke carpaccio really opened our eyes. The small delicate filets of fish (not cod) lightly coated in breadcrumbs delicately flavoured with Lavender. The fish slightly translucent, it must have seen the pan for just a few moments, the breadcrumbs remaining relatively soft. The lemon sauce seemed to be a simple olive oil infusion which complemented the artichoke and fish perfectly. Possibly my dish of the year.

Next came a deep fried zucchini flower stuffed with tuna and Mozeralla. This was sat atop small florets of broccoli lightly cooked with pine nuts and raisins. An excellent example of this dish which is served in virtually every restaurant in this town. Light batter and again a good proportion of Tuna to mozerella. The broccoli worked well with the nuts and raisins and complicated by a drizzle of Olive Oil.

Our Pasta course was Fish Ravioli, pumpkin and pepper sauce. Four large but short tubes of pasta (hopeless on Pasta names I’m afraid) rather than an enclosed ravioli, cooked very al dente. Initially the dish tasted quite strongly of fish but this balanced itself out during the course with the sweetness from the pumpkin and a slight heat from a hot pepper.

Seabass came steamed atop some green beans and thin potatoes cooked very lightly, finished with another citrus oil. This was a beautiful piece of fish, streamed and again, slightly translucent. Fantastic.

Berry and yoghurt ice cream was served in a red wince sauce as an amuse, the red wine stil slightly alcoholic and sweetened with a syrup. Delicious

Lemon Souffle came with a small jug of strawberry sauce and lemon sorbet (I think). This was very nice but perhaps a touch overcooked/lacking an eggwhite.

Service was attentive and friendly and we were quick to make another reservation before we left.

Overall a superb meal, one of the best of the year and mystifyingly lacking in Michelin stars. Apparently Michelin want them to make their sauces a little heavier, use some cream etc. etc. I hope the restaurant doesn’t listen because the menu we were served here was almost perfect in its execution. After eating here I could understand why the hotel receptionist looked weak at the knees when she mentioned its name.

[Matthew Grant]

Meal 2:

Our second meal at Il Buco was once again outstanding. On arrival we were welcomed by the owner, sat down by the Maitre D’ and presented with a welcome glass of prosecco. Some minutes later he returned clutching the menus hard to his chest. “Do you want to see these?”

“Have you got truffle tonight?”

“Of course”

“We’ll leave it to you to decide”

Amuse as before

Squid with Apple artichoke and a few shavings of white truffle. The squid was served hole but carefully cut to produce some parts as rings whilst still attached to the main body. The crisp apple complementing the artichoke and accompanied by a very fresh olive oil.

Langoustine and Prawn with a Parmesan sauce and white truffle. By far and away the heaviest sauce of our two meals here. Well cooked large prawn and Langoustine, slightly overshadowed by the Truffle and Parmesan. A great homely sauce.

Tagliolini with White Truffle. A simple butter sauce with white truffle shaved over then top.

Baby Fillet of pork with meat juices. A small tower with a slice of courgette, tomato and mozerella, finished once again with a few shavings of white truffle. I was wary of this dish after dinner the night before which had presented a pork fillet which was woefully overcooked. I really thought this was where they were about to let themselves down. Our eyes lit up as we cut into the small round of pork and found it cooked medium. The owner came rushing over eager to explain that they think it is best-cooked medium but lots of people complain. We told him not to worry.

We started (at our request) with the Berry and yoghurt ice cream as a pre dessert. This time the sauce was a touch heavier with cinnamon. We then split desserts – a “chocolate flan” was actually a light version of a fondant served with a vanilla ice cream. Wild strawberry tart came topped with meringue, unfortunately the pastry was slightly overcooked.

Once again a great dinner, this one cost us a premium because of the white truffle but compared to London prices was a bargain at €120 per person plus drinks. The previous dinner really was a bargain €55 plus drinks.

Descriptions cannot do this style of food justice, it is reliant on simple preparations and high quality ingredients. These were without doubt 2 of my favourite meals of the year.

[albiston]

Matthew,

thank you for the very interesting review. Another place on my "to try" list for my next Neapolitan visit. The list is getting quite long though, I'm almost starting to think I should move back

How did you come across this restaurant? Through the Michelin guide? I had seldom seen it mentioned in the Italian or even local Neapolitan papers.

[Matthew Grant]

Matthew,

thank you for the very interesting review. Another place on my "to try" list for my next Neapolitan visit. The list is getting quite long though, I'm almost starting to think I should move back 

How did you come across this restaurant? Through the Michelin guide? I had seldom seen it mentioned in the Italian or even local Neapolitan papers.

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It came form both the concerierge and the receptionist at our hotel. The receptionist was very enthusisatic about food and according to her the best restaurant was Il Buco followed by Caruso. Apparently there were only 4 restauranst in town worth eating at and Il Buco and Caruso were way ahead of the other two.

[Ore]

Ciao,

I am def. going to have to try this place before I leave this area!

Myabe the 'ravioli' you mentioned was Paccheri (check out the Marenna' review for a photo). Thick pasta - tubular - open at the ends.

The fish course you mentioned in the first report, the codfish that wasn't cod - do you know what it was - maybe salt cod (baccala)?

Great report though - what kind of wines did you enjoy there? Bank breakers or was the list well priced?

Where about town is this place?

Grazie!

Ore

[Matthew Grant]

They called it codfish but siad it was local and different from UK style Cod.However he did use the name Merluzza which I believed was Cod? It was not as falkey as cod and more delicate.

Incidentally the chefs name is Michele De Leo and is 29 years old.

website here

Edited November 25, 2004 by Matthew Grant (log)

[albiston]

They called it codfish but siad it was local and different from UK style Cod.However he did use the name Merluzza which I believed was Cod? It was not as falkey as cod and more delicate.

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Matthew,

I think the confusion arises from the many regional names fish have in Italy. There are a few relatives of cod in the mediterranean and the name sometimes changes from one seaport to the next . Whiting, Hake and Pout can all go under the name Merluzzo.

[Ore]

Ciao,

From what I have 'heard', Il Buco has won! a Michellin Star!!! Congrats!

Ore

[albiston]

Ciao,

From what I have 'heard', Il Buco has won! a Michellin Star!!!  Congrats!

Ore

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Indeed they did.

Look at the new one starred places here.

[Boris_A]

Given the fact that "Il Buco" isn't to be found in other guides, that's also an achievement for Michelin Italia, methinks.

[Matthew Grant]

I know a one starred restaurant when i see one

Well deserved!

[albiston]

Given the fact that "Il Buco" isn't to be found in other guides, that's also an achievement for Michelin Italia, methinks.

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I agree with that, Michelin certainly seems to be discovering a few places before other guides do, like Il Gelso di San Martino last year. On the other hand, Matthew's report made me curious so I did a little research on Il Buco: it has been on and off the Gambero Rosso Guide (and the Espress one too, I think) for the last few years, and has been on the Veronelli guide for a while, so it is not exactly a "new" discovery from Michelin.

[Boris_A]

I did a little research on Il Buco: it has been on and off the Gambero Rosso Guide (and the Espress one too, I think) for the last few years, and has been on the Veronelli guide for a while, so it is not exactly a "new" discovery from Michelin.

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Thanks for the clarification. But at least Michelin found out about the "new" quality. I made my remark because I found Michelin lately got too much bashing for their work. Especially on the one star level, it's still a very good guide for Italy, I beleive. There's also some regionality to be considered: so for me, for example a one star in Emiglia Romagna or in Campania is often a very good help to find an outstanding, regionally based cuisine.

[albiston]

I did a little research on Il Buco: it has been on and off the Gambero Rosso Guide (and the Espress one too, I think) for the last few years, and has been on the Veronelli guide for a while, so it is not exactly a "new" discovery from Michelin.

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Thanks for the clarification. But at least Michelin found out about the "new" quality. I made my remark because I found Michelin lately got too much bashing for their work. Especially on the one star level, it's still a very good guide for Italy, I beleive. There's also some regionality to be considered: so for me, for example a one star in Emiglia Romagna or in Campania is often a very good help to find an outstanding, regionally based cuisine.

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I agree, and I think they're seriously making an effort to improve the Italy guide. They are clearly doing more field research than before, which would explain the 11 new one stars.

The reason why I'm not a big fan of Michelin is because it's hard not to get the feeling they are being extremely hard with Italian restaurants to avoid giving three stars. I doubt a place like La Pergola in Rome would not have three stars if it were in France.

Also, below one star level you can really get anything, from very good places that might deserve a star or not to much less satisfactory experiences.

That doesn't mean I think it's bad. Michelin is a good guide and by far the most sold in Italy. Still, as every other one, Gambero Rosso, Espresso and Veronelli (Slow Food is something different), it has gaps and weak sides.

[Boris_A]

The reason why I'm not a big fan of Michelin is because it's hard not to get the feeling they are being extremely hard with Italian restaurants to avoid giving three stars. I doubt a place like La Pergola in Rome would not have three stars if it were in France.

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These are pretty exactly the 40 years old words of my mother (a daughter of a Parmigiano), who worked in the fashion business in the 60ies/70ies and travelled a lot between Paris and Milano. There werent' any three stars in Italy in those days.

I didn't understand a lot of that Michelin talk back then, but I knew exactly how unfair Michelin was. I was three years old, when our family had to leave Côte d'Azur, because little Bo simply refused to eat any French food and didn't came back to nourishment intake until our train reached Finale Ligure. I absolutely can't remember, but my mom told the story.

[albiston]

The reason why I'm not a big fan of Michelin is because it's hard not to get the feeling they are being extremely hard with Italian restaurants to avoid giving three stars. I doubt a place like La Pergola in Rome would not have three stars if it were in France.

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These are pretty exactly the 40 years old words of my mother (a daughter of a Parmigiano), who worked in the fashion business in the 60ies/70ies and travelled a lot between Paris and Milano. There werent' any three stars in Italy in those days.

I didn't understand a lot of that Michelin talk back then, but I knew exactly how unfair Michelin was. I was three years old, when our family had to leave Côte d'Azur, because little Bo simply refused to eat any French food and didn't came back to nourishment intake until our train reached Finale Ligure. I absolutely can't remember, but my mom told the story.

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Great stories, both of them .

I guess the one about Michelin shows to things: either Michelin has been unfair to Italian restaurant throughout its history, or we Italians have a badly hidden inferiority comples toward the French and their restaurants.

Actually, thinking about it, both are probably true .

[Boris_A]

or we Italians have a badly hidden inferiority comples toward the French and their restaurants.

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There's also another element: the French (formal as they are, and not unlike the Brits towards the southern Europeans) had also a feeling of distain towards the more informal way of dining and the simple, regional dishes of some of best Italian restaurants.

OTOH, "Italian feelings" included a certain regret, because openly expressing joy was suppressed: "poor French diners".

When I was a child, attaining a French dinner was something like visiting a funeral for me: all this wispering and these infinitely serious faces of the other guests. Horror! I really felt sorry for them.

The great Jacques Tati (especially his "Vacances" must ring bells with any tourist who visited once a French sea resort) was quite merciless when he showed the absurdity of these formal attitudes.

And sametime for kids, Italy was just like heaven. Let's abuse this thread for another personal story: I was about 5 years old, when we visited "Il Re delle Fetuccine" Alfredo in Rome (that was 1962, really the heydays of Rome, and Alfredo was one of the places to go, crowded with prominents). I was served a veal liver, and seconds later, the "chef de service" came to our table and asked my mother about what's being wrong with my liver, because he saw my unhappy face after the first bite. She didn't notice nothing at all and asked me and I said "it's too salty". 5 minutes later I had a fresh, mildly salted liver in front of me. I think from that day on, all other cuisines lost the marketing war in the fight about my customer loyality.

And really: thank again to Matthew, who found "Il Buco", this nugget of Campanian cuisine. (But hey, I knew he's da man, he even found out that a "St.Galler-Bratwurst" at the "Vorderer Sternen" is one of the best offerings of Zurich's cuisine). I'm planning to visit Napoli for a week in January or February, and sure I'm going to visit Sorrento.

[balex]

I know a one starred restaurant when i see one    

Well deserved!

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Excellent call. Bragging rights to Signore Grant.

[Matthew Grant]

I know a one starred restaurant when i see one    

Well deserved!

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Excellent call. Bragging rights to Signore Grant.

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I was wondering whether they knew about this when I was there? They didn't let on if they did and I mentioned it to them on more than one occasion. They gave the impression that they wouldn't be changing things simply to suit Michelin so I am glad that it has been recognised on its current form.

Edited December 3, 2004 by Matthew Grant (log)

[albiston]

I know a one starred restaurant when i see one    

Well deserved!

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Excellent call. Bragging rights to Signore Grant.

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I was wondering whether they knew about this when I was there?

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Wouldn't think so. The Michelin guide came out end of november and I know for a fact, having spoken to someone who was awarded a michelin star for the first time last year, that those winning the one star awards are usually informed only AFTER the guide comes out.

[Ore]

My chef is eating there Monday night for his wedding anniversary - I will report back his experience!!

Ore

(MG - any good sparkling wines you can recall from the list?)

[Matthew Grant]

I'm afriad I don't recall which sparkling wines they had.

I hope he enjoys it, heartily recommend the tasting menu I described in my first post.

[Ore]

Ciao,

So my chef ate there last night with his wife. They were surprised by a bottle of champagne (that we (the kitchen crew here in Nusco) bought for them with the help of Tonino, who I am guessing is the Maitre d'). My chef said that overall the dinner was good. They were served four savory plates and two sweet plates. I am pretty sure he said they had the tasting menu but that doesn't seem like many plates.

The highlights for him were the desserts. He mentioned a souffle that was done very well - as for the savory plates - all were ok for the Sorrento scene...FOR HIM. Lets not forget he is a chef - I think maybe a bit jealous of the star recently given to Buco - so maybe his reaction is weighted.

If I have the time - I will try to get there before I leave the area.

Ciao,

Ore

[albie]

Ciao,

So my chef ate there last night with his wife.  They were surprised by a bottle of champagne (that we (the kitchen crew here in Nusco) bought for them with the help of Tonino, who I am guessing is the Maitre d').  My chef said that overall the dinner was good.  They were served four savory plates and two sweet plates.  I am pretty sure he said they had the tasting menu but that doesn't seem like many plates.

The highlights for him were the desserts.  He mentioned a souffle that was done very well - as for the savory plates - all were ok for the Sorrento scene...FOR HIM.  Lets not forget he is a chef - I think maybe a bit jealous of the star recently given to Buco - so maybe his reaction is weighted. 

If I have the time - I will try to get there before I leave the area.

Ciao,

Ore

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John Mariani did an extensive -- and very favorable --review of this place in his Virtual Gourmet webpage

[Faith Willinger]

Ciao Matthew

I also love Il Buco, think the owner Peppino is as fantastic as his restaurant. And they just got a Michelin star. And you didn't mention the wonderful selection of wines, especially well-priced gems from the region.

a presto

Faith Willinger

I had a meal on Saturday that put many UK one stars to shame and would also have embarrassed a couple of  2 star restaurant. The restaurant in question doesn’t have a single star, in fact it has 2 knifes and forks.

Il Buco is a pretty basement restaurant in Sorrento, refined, with nice cutlery, glassware, outstanding service. It has a few tables outside which presumably are used during the summer. It had been recommended to us by the receptionist at our hotel who looked delirious with excitement at the merest mention of the restaurant.

Now we’re not normally massive Italian food fans so ignoring regional specialities we enquired after White truffles. The Maitre D’ (what’s he called in Italian?) advised that he did indeed have white truffles and could replace the pasta course in the degustazione (sp.?) but recommended that we stick with the original menu all the way through because of the way it was balanced. Boy was he right! The meal that proceeded was a masterpiece of simplicity, good ingredients and balance.

An Amuse of a miniature pastry filled with Mozarella and basil sat atop 3 sweet baby tomatoes was a pleasant start to the meal.

Codfish with a Lavender crumb, lemon, olive oil and an Artichoke carpaccio really opened our eyes. The small delicate filets of fish (not cod) lightly coated in breadcrumbs delicately flavoured with Lavender. The fish slightly translucent, it must have seen the pan for just a few moments, the breadcrumbs remaining relatively soft. The lemon sauce seemed to be a simple olive oil infusion which complemented the artichoke and fish perfectly. Possibly my dish of the year.

Next came a deep fried zucchini flower stuffed with tuna and Mozeralla. This was sat atop small florets of broccoli lightly cooked with pine nuts and raisins. An excellent example of this dish which is served in virtually every restaurant in this town. Light batter and again a good proportion of Tuna to mozerella. The broccoli worked well with the nuts and raisins and complicated by a drizzle of Olive Oil.

Our Pasta course was  Fish Ravioli, pumpkin and pepper sauce. Four large but short tubes of pasta (hopeless on Pasta names I’m afraid) rather than an enclosed ravioli, cooked very al dente. Initially the dish tasted quite strongly of fish but this balanced itself out during the course with the sweetness from the pumpkin and a slight heat from a hot pepper.

Seabass came steamed atop some green beans and thin potatoes cooked very lightly, finished with another citrus oil. This was a beautiful piece of fish, streamed and again, slightly translucent. Fantastic.

Berry and yoghurt ice cream was served in a red wince sauce as an amuse, the red wine stil slightly alcoholic and sweetened with a syrup. Delicious

Lemon Souffle came with a small jug of strawberry sauce and lemon sorbet (I think). This was very nice but perhaps a touch overcooked/lacking an eggwhite.

Service was attentive and friendly and we were quick to make another reservation before we left.

Overall a superb meal, one of the best of the year and mystifyingly lacking in Michelin stars. Apparently Michelin want them to make their sauces a little heavier, use some cream etc. etc. I hope the restaurant doesn’t listen because the menu we were served here was almost perfect in its execution.  After eating here I could understand why the hotel receptionist looked weak at the knees when she mentioned its name.

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