Couvron

[bcm]

Has anyone tried this newcomer on Greenwich Street?

We were frequent visitors to Portland, OR, where Couvron was our

favorite of many terrific restaurants. Was saddened to hear that

they closed there but delighted to learn they opened here last month.

Haven't had a chance to get there and am anxious to know how they're

doing.

[SobaAddict70]

What ended up on my table pleased me. A lobe of seared foie gras was perched atop a yellow fin tuna burger, and this double deck of decadence came with a lobster-flavored crème fraîche. Chanterelle soup was a creamy paean to the mushrooms themselves, with few other flavors or seasonings complicating their allure.

Couvron (Frank Bruni)

Chef Anthony Demes, formerly of Couvron in Portland, Oregon, offers New Yorkers food in the style of contemporary France.

Soba

[Cornellrob]

I don't know anything about this restaurant, but i was kind of intrigued when I learned that the former Couvron (in Portland, OR) was a Mobil 4-star award winner, and was also considered maybe the best restaurant in Portland. The owners basically decided to move and transferred the restaurant, along with a number of their "signature" dishes" to NY.

Not that this means anything in NYC, but it's still kind of surprising that a restaurant like this would open without much fanfare or even notice on egullet. Perhaps it was on the pacific northwest board...

The food is really pricey though (See menupages), which significantly reduces the chance I will ever eat there.

[Bux]

(See menupages),

←

http://menupages.com/ ? Do you have any idea how accurate those are? Are they updated regularly?

[Bux]

A glowing review of Couvron. "a destination restaurant and an experience that shouldn’t be missed."

Another very positive review of the opening night. " if what we experienced last night is any indication, they already are a huge hit."

A far less promising review." At $8 to $14 for appetizers and $23 to $36 for entrées, dining at Couvron costs as much as at some of Manhattan's finer, more established restaurants. After having eaten an unremarkable meal here, I have doubts that Couvron would survive in this category. On the other hand, Couvron's small space (it seats just 60) and the neighboring eateries, which are more downscale and cater to a local crowd, suggest that Couvron has the correct physical characteristics of a downtown neighborhood joint. But Couvron is too formal, too expensive and the food is too rich for it to be successful in this niche."

Once again, the reviews may speak more of the diner's perceptions and perspective.

[ewindels]

Inspired by Bruni's rave, I tried Couvron the Tuesday before Christmas with three friends. Mixed impressions. Let's get the nitpicking out of the way:

- The LOCATION, down a dark and grim (at least at night) stretch of Greenwich Street and 10 steps from the West Side Highway, is not convenient to public transportation.

- The SERVICE, at least when we there, was severly understaffed. Right now their money's going into kitchen staff, leaving only Mdm. La Proprietresse and one lone waiter to do all the front of house, bar, table orders, serving, and busing. While the place was only half full, this still meant 20-30 minute waits between courses, which is a little much for this A.D.D.er.

- The WINE LIST, while extensive and impressive, is severely overpriced, e.g. the bottle of Qupe 2001 Syrah we had was $75. At Landmarc a half bottle of the same is $18. You do the math. (Yeah, yeah, I know all about restaurants having to do markups on the hooch to survive, but let's get real.)

- The MENU PRICING also struck me was too expensive for what we got. $32 for a delicate plate of lamb is more Daniel pricing than a home-done boite in the lower Village.

Now to the good stuff:

- The place is charming and warm in a casual, home-done manner (Mdm. La Proprietress did all the decor, including the physical work, herself). The fully lit Christmas tree in the window was a welcome touch, and any place that plays the King's College Choir singing carols through the evening is a hit in my book (at least during the holidays). The tables are cosy and decorated with cute porcelain candle holders (schlepped, like everything else, from Oregon).

- The service, if stretched, was nonetheless charming.

- The food is terrific. (The full menu can be seen here). A special of cream of chestnut soup was rich and velvety and deeply flavored. Chilled celery root puree with crispy potato discs and italian white truffle oil, served in a martini glass, was a playful take on chips and dip. The foie gras was just what foie gras should be -- deeeeeeelicious. The duck breast was perfectly done, as was my loin, rack and tenderloin of lamb (even though it was a delicate portion, but see my gripe about pricing above). The grilled tenderloin of beef with short ribs, garlic potato gratin and white asparagus stew was every bit as decadent and wonderful as it sounds.

We split two desserts and were comped a third (one of our party is a friend of the owners). With tax and tip, I believe the bill came to $80 for the three of us, which is not bad, but did leave us with the impression that prices were a little higher than the total experience warranted. Notwithstanding, the experience was lovely, and one can only wish this adventurous and enterprising group well in the cutthroat and merciless world of New York restauranting. If you're in the neighborhood and have the money to spend, by all means make a visit -- you won't be disappointed.