Hugh Johnson on Austrian Gruner Veltliner

[DonRocks]

From the fourth edition of The World Atlas Of Wine:

"Veltliner wine when it is well made and drunk young is marvellously fresh and fruity, with plenty of acidity and an almost spicy flavour.  To compare it with Rhine Riesling is like comparing a wild flower with a finely bred garden variety.

There are times, when Gruner Veltliner wine is drawn straight from the barrel into a tumbler, frothing and gleaming a piercing greeny gold, when it seems like the quintessence of all that a wine should be.  Drink it then, with a sandwich on the terrace.  It will never taste like that under any other conditions."

It's hard to believe this was written ten short years ago. From my experience, Austrian Gruner Veltliner has the potential to age longer and more gracefully than Austrian Riesling. I don't believe it ever has the same complexity and nuance as Riesling at its peak, but I do think that, as the bell for the fifteenth round rings, Gruner Veltliner steps confidently into the ring.

1975 Brundlmayer was my round-fifteen revelation.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[RobInAustin]

Rocks,

Have to agree with you that it is way under-rated. I have touted the Berger GV in several threads as a great everyday value wine, at $10.99 for a full liter. The more "upscale" ones are more serious wines, which deserve more attention. but then Austria seems to be the poor relation living in the shadow of German Rieslings...which is unfair.

Cheers,

Rob