Charlevoix and Gaspe

[cokie]

Hi! I am a new member and I would really appreciate your help. Later this month, I will be spending a couple of weeks going from the Charlevoix (St. Irenee) to Tadoussac to the Gaspe. Do you have any restaurant recommendations for the area? I'm looking for all types of places - high end to local seafood shack. Thanks.

[rozrapp]

Welcome to eGullet, Cokie!

La Pinsonniere, in Cap-a-l'Aigle, is a member of the Relais & Chateaux group. Although it has been quite a number of years since we stayed and dined there, I would be surprised if the food is not as good now as it was then.

[carswell]

Welcome, cokie!

Don't have any advice to give — when I've visited Charlevoix and the Gaspé, it's been to hike, climb or cross-country ski and I've always camped or stayed in refuges — but your query provides me with the opportunity to post a question that a friend just asked me and whose answer you may find useful too: Would you know of a combo hotel with supper at Tadoussac? I was given the name of a farm for family vacations near Tadoussac that is very reasonable. Have you heard of the Ferme 5 Étoiles at Sacré-Coeur?

Edited July 8, 2004 by carswell (log)

[identifiler]

http://www.ferme5etoiles.com/

The problem with ferme 5 etoile is that it's inland. For me, that area is about that cold damp smell of the water. I have no clue of pricing, they do seem to have a pretty thick list of extra fees. Last time I went there I stayed at the Tadoussac Hotel. It was pricey but they do have a really nice 5 star restaurant now, that's worth a visit. You also need to find out if you want to see the whales, hotels offer packages for that.

[identifiler]

I'm going up to Metis sur Mer later so any recommedations are apreciated on the North shore, then we cross over on the south shore. A friend of mine just came back from Ile Verte. I asked him to go steal a lamb for me.

I'm in Quebec City for three days next week, half work half vacation with the kids. The new chef at Chateau Bon entente is apparently very good.

[waltermaier]

Hi, I live in New Jersey, but we just got back from our third trip to the Charlevoix region.

Just a quick recommendation for a dinner:

This place http://www.agneausaveurscharlevoix.com/ (les Saveurs Oubliées is the restaurant) in Les Éboulements, between Baie Saint Paul and St. Irenee, was incredible. They specialize in lamb and are a BYOB, which in New Jersey, can really help keep the dinner price down. Easily one of the top 3 dining experiences I've ever had in my life.

It appears the menu isn't popping up at the website. Reservations required.

[cokie]

Thanks to each of you. I've made reservations at both La Pinsonniere and LesSauveurs Oubliees. I'll report when I return.

I appreciate your help.

Cokie

[francois]

We will be spending a few days in Charlevoix. There are a number of good restaurants. What are the places we really should not miss?

[Lesley C]

Someone just told me about a restaurant called Vice Versa. Anyone heard of it?

[francois]

I spent a few days in Charlevoix. We stayed at the Auberge de la Falaise in La Malbaie. Very nice and confortable. Pool with a great view of the St-Laurent river. Dinner however was fair to good, no more. We decided to have our other dinners elsewhere. Breakfast was quite nice however.

We went to La pinsonnière, recently renovated. Food was quite good but a bit averpriced. First course included a potato galette (which they called a blini) with smoked salmon and a lemony cream sauce with just a few specks of caviar, more for the looks than anything else as there was not anough to contribute any taste. Good but I can do better at home. The lobester bisque was outstanding. The ris de veau salad was great. Scallop cappacio with vanilla was quite good, heavily perfumed with vanilla. Halibut with onion compote was great as was the lobster with roasted vegetables. Desserts were excellent, specially the '5 C' - chocolate cake with caramel, champagne sorbet etc... Service was good but the overall athmosphere was rather aloft and snobish.

My coup de coeur was Vices Versa, a small restaurant in La Malbaie that we would probably have overlooked if Lesley would not have suggested it (thanks!). Very small. Unfortunatly, there were only a few other clients in the restaurant. One can see the kitchen from the dining room. The 2 chefs were previously from L'auberge des 3 canards. After dinner we were invited to have a word with the chefs in the kitchen. The direct contact with the chefs was refreshing and very pleasant. The food was really good, reasonably priced. The amuse bouche was a large plate of rabbit cooked 3 different ways (rillette in a small choux, roasted rabe and liver). I started with a surprising but delicious dish of tuna tartare on a seafood flan and a sorbet of rhubarbe. The ris de veau was perfect. Dessert was a bit disapointing: chocolate ganache in phillo pastry. Wine list was reasonably priced. Overall, it was a very nice evening!!

We brought back 1/2 of a meule of Migneron - I regret not having taken a whole one!

[Lesley C]

I also dined at the Pinsonniere and thought my meal was fantastic. I really enjoyed the blini with salmon. I agree the service was a bit aloof, but it is a Relais & Chateau establishment, and I think they aim for that kind of French service. Sadly I did not make it to Vices Versa. I was travelling with my kids and we just couldn't fit it in. But hey, an excuse to return, right?

[Salomon]

- I've been in Charlevoix (Baie St-Paul) a few times in the recent years and I'm making a point every time I'm there to eat at les saveurs oubliées http://www.agneausaveurscharlevoix.com/english.html. It's one of the best table I've been, and probably one of the best "bang for your bucks" in the whole province. You can also buy product from the farm. The service, dining room and food are very good. Note also that it's BYOW, which is nice. Reservations are mandatory.

- I've also heard great things about la maison Otis in Baie St-Paul, for both the food and lodging (they have a SPA, which can be nice). It's a bit costly though.

- Also, you have to stop at l'économusée du fromage (it's on the main provincial road - the 138 I believe - just outside of Baie St-Paul) for Charlevoix's cheeses at a low price.

- Finally, if you're looking for a B&B, here's a recommendation: http://www3.sympatico.ca/eider.matinal/. The comfort, the rooms, the view, the warmth of the owner are making this place a coup de coeur. It's not cheap, but it's great.

Bon voyage

[fchrisgrimm]

(Bump)

Haven't even taken our summer trip to Montreal and are already considering a week betweemn Charlevoix and Montreal in the Fall.

Anything new or interesting to report for Charlevoix?

[fchrisgrimm]

(another bump)

Definitely staying three nights in La Malbaie before heading to Monteal. Would love updated recommendations.

[Pielle]

(another bump)

Definitely staying three nights in La Malbaie before heading to Monteal.  Would love updated recommendations.

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I havn't tried many restaurants in Charlevoix, but I do have a few suggestions that I have tried :

1) Les trois canards in La malbaie

Albeight a bit classic, it is a verry good french cuisine restaurant, a full course meal is around 45$ pp.

2) LEs saveurs Oubliées in Les éboulements

"table champêtre" BYOB, very good family style gastronimic restaurant featuring only local products, either from thier farm or from others in the region. Well worth it, 35-40$ pp plus you are saving because of BYOB.

3) Le Saint-Pub in Baie St-Paul. Brewpub owed by Microbrasserie Charlevoix, which is one of the best microbrewers in Qc. They have a nice terrasse and have a diversified menu, including home smoked ribs and smoked meat.

Hope you have a nice time in Charlevoix. If you like hiking, both Parc des grands jardins (Mont du lac des cygnes) and parc des hautes-gorges de la rivière malbaie (acropole des draveurs)the ,former being a lot easier, feature some of the most beautiful hikes in Qc.