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Southbound


Florida Jim

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With Father’s Day in the offing, I decided to head back to FL to spend it with my daughter. Her husband is visiting his relatives out of state and I would get her mostly to myself. Of course, I would be leaving the cool, lush mountains and driving into an oven but then, some things are worth taking the heat.

First stop, Mom and Dad’s just outside Sevierville, TN. I get in just in time for dinner which is roasted pork loin and Grandma’s potato salad. (I could spend several paragraphs talking about this salad, its history, how good it is, etc., but suffice it to say, nothing could be finer.)

Along with, I break out the 2003 Pepiere, Muscadet and a 2002 Coudert, Fleurie. Mom doesn’t like a lot of red wine, although I give her props for at least tasting the ones I open. But the Muscadet is the big hit with both Mom and Dad; bright, fresh and flavorful, it is very quickly drained. The red is the best match with the meal with plenty of fruit and stone scents and flavors and that little overlay of ladies face powder that seems a signature of Gamay – Mom says its raspberries and I can’t argue that. Good length, too.

The following day I’m off to Atlanta to meet Bill Bounds and Bob Fleming for dinner at Nam, a Vietnamese restaurant that is at the same quality level as Slanted Door in SF.

Bill gets tied up at his art gallery/residence with a group of charity supporters so Bill’s wife, Sue Sue, and Bob and I head out to dinner and take along a really exquisite Kradenweiss (sp?), Riesling (I had forgotten my pen and that’s all I can remember)

that is sparklingly pure and sensational with the cuisine. I also grab a 2001 Knoll, Gruner Veltliner Vinothekenfullung which is the very essence of gruner but not showing near the complexity it did on release. My remaining bottles shall remain untouched for many moons.

Back at Bill and Sue Sue’s place, the party is starting to break-up and when Bill sees we have brought him take-out, we all gather at the dining table and open a Chapellet, Chenin Blanc (please, help me with the vintage Bob) that is simply one of the best bargains in domestic wine I can think of. Lovely aromatics, clean and pure in the mouth and ready now. When the call goes out for red, we taste the 1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos de Chenes and although it is showing young, it is smooth and fruit-filled with an underlying minerality – there isn’t much doubt its Volnay.

Next morning, after breakfast at Thumb’s Up with the lads, I turn southbound and roll into St. Petersburg just in time for the heat of the day – ah yes, this is why I spend summers in the mountains.

George comes over to say hi and we open a 375 of 2002 Drouhin, Macon-Villages which soothes my traffic jangled nerves and gets his evening off to a pleasant start. It’s a calm little thing but it rises above being a generically quaffable wine with its clarity and focus.

George comes back a bit later with a glass of Pinotage that he wants me to try; oh my goodness, its colored mineral spirits! This is the most volatile wine I’ve ever tried and it takes more than a little effort to actually sip it and even more to smile at George after. He leaves, I spit. ‘Sorry; but I won’t be getting the name of that one.

Later, I order a bacon pizza from out favorite place here and Jennifer (my daughter) comes over to help me eat it (its nice having her back in the neighborhood). We enjoy a bottle of the 2003 Markowitsch, Carnuntum-Cuvee, which is an Austrian blend of Zweigelt (sp?) and Pinot Noir. Warm and smooth with excellent ripeness and a little cut toward the finish, this wine certainly shows how warm the vintage was. Charming stuff; thanks Larry.

Man, I love to travel.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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a really exquisite Kradenweiss (sp?), Riesling (I had forgotten my pen and that’s all I can remember)

that is sparklingly pure and sensational with the cuisine.

Maybe "Marc Kreydenweiss, Riesling d'Alsace"?

He produces some climat Rieslings (vineyards and GrandCrus subappellations) as well. An excellent Alsatian producer.

And Zweigelt is the correct spelling of this red variety, which is quite popular in Austria. It yields rather soft, smooth wines, not unlike Gamay.

Knoll' s Vintothekenabfüllung are indeed a more concentrated selection of his regular Grüner Veltliner, which is already at the top end.

Regards, Boris

Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler.

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Maybe "Marc Kreydenweiss, Riesling d'Alsace"?

He produces some climat Rieslings (vineyards and GrandCrus subappellations) as well. An excellent Alsatian producer.

And Zweigelt is the correct spelling of this red variety, which is quite popular in Austria. It yields rather soft, smooth wines, not unlike Gamay.

Knoll' s Vintothekenabfüllung are indeed a more concentrated selection of his regular Grüner Veltliner, which is already at the top end.

Regards, Boris

Boris,

Kreydenweiss - yep, that's the producer but this was a vineyard designated wine. I wish I'd have been more attentive but the company and food was just so good . . .

The Zweigelt was soft in the mouth but it had a nice bright bite toward the finish (maybe the pinot?). I don't know how this is priced (this bottle was a gift) but it is worth revisiting. And of course, I love Gamay so its right down my alley.

That Gurner, on release, was simply the most complex wine I had ever had, red or white. It has lost that intensely layered profile but has lost nothing of its concentration. I am pleased to have a couple for another time.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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The Zweigelt was soft in the mouth but it had a nice bright bite toward the finish (maybe the pinot?). I don't know how this is priced (this bottle was a gift) but it is worth revisiting.

Here in Switzerland, I can get it at $11. Should be no more than $14 over there.

As for the Gruner Vinotheken, you're really a lucky one to have some more bottles. They are extremely difficult to get here, as the Austrians know what's inside of these bottles. Congrats!

Edited by Boris_A (log)

Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler.

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