WTN: 2 Châteauneuf du Papes

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We enjoyed these two wines recently with Nancy, Mel and Bruce Leiserowitz; both were most fine paired with grilled hanger steak, sautéed polenta and mushrooms in a reduced sauce.

2000 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Felix, $79.99, 13.5% alc.: This dark garnet monster exudes big leathery black currant, black plum, earth and smoke flavors and aromas, accented with just enough oak to notice; very intense and concentrated, it’s showing significant tannins and not – quite – searing acidity. As it opens with air, it turns sweeter, with notes of violet, cola and a certain creamy quality throughout. I double decanted this before our drive, but it could have used at least four hours in the decanter to show its best now. What it really needs is a lot of time, as it’s likely a fifteen year wine, and then some. Great stuff here, but be very patient.

Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI

1998 Domaine Mordoree Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois: Bruce had decanted this dark garnet, and I never did take a look at the label for the specifics as to alcohol content, but then, who cares? What’s important is what’s in the glass, and this one exudes sea air over red and black currants, with some smoke in the background. Flavors echo, with some added leathery, peppery nuances and considerably less tannins and acidity than the Cuvée Felix, being much smoother than the previous selection. Kim also found it to be spicier, while Bruce noted some vanilla and an almost shiraz – like quality. The sea air never does blow off, and indeed dominates the nose, in a very good way. Although marvelous and much more approachable than the Bois de Boursan, opening this now is still jumping the gun (although we’d never have known without trying it, now would we?), so try to hold off on it until at least 2008; you won’t be disappointed.

Imported by Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., Winchester, VA

Reporting from Day-twah,

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