La lista dei vini

[Florida Jim]

Aperitif:

NV Zardetto, Prosecco:

Bright, ginger ale nose and flavors with some floral tones and a bit of yeast and mineral. A pleasant sipper that, because of its residual sugar, is best served very cold. Winebow imports.

With grilled wild salmon with pea pods and baby greens:

2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino:

The garganega profile is evident in the nose and on the palate of this wine; round and yet well structured, flavorful without being fully open, bright without being tart and excellent balance; a terrific rendition of Soave, whether the label says so or not. I look forward to many more bottles of this; ‘will keep short term. Winebow imports.

With “build your own open faced sandwich;” pesto, olive oils, olives, buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and sautéed shitakes with truffle oil, all served with crusty bread:

1996 Ferrando, Carema (White Label):

A recent ’96 Cantina Produttori, Carema, gave no indication of what heights can be reached in these mountains southwest of Gattinara; although immediately from the bottle this wine was thin, it was still head and shoulders more integrated and character driven than the Produttori, and as it opened, it took on weight without ever losing its finesse and complexity. Fairly well resolved structurally, this kept getting better and better with air and is graceful reminder that nebbiolo does not have to be big and tannic to be delicious. Rosenthal imports.

1998 Travaglini, Gattinara:

Great wine in a funny shaped bottle. Much more dense and tannic than the preceding wine, this nebbiolo is more in the style of Barolo with a richness of texture and substantial but ripe tannins. Some unsweetened dark chocolate notes appear in the nose and mouth to compliment the red fruit, tar tones that are well integrated and intense; concentrated and balanced with a long, somewhat drying, finish. Quite a mouthful and surely has a fine future in the cellar. Beringer Blas Wine Estates imports.

Best, Jim

[Brad Ballinger]

Traviglini makes a consistently good Gattinara. I've never heard a consensus theory behind the bottle shape. One of the more plausible ones has to do with the design fitting well in the grip of one's hand.