Zur Traube

[howardlong]

I went on Saturday night and took the 'seven' course tasting menu, although it turned out to be a lot more courses than that.

1 Small cheese crackers;

2 Amuse bouche #1 - shrimp in aspic layered with fish mousse on top in cocktial glass;

3 Amuse bouche #2 - duck slices;

4 Course #1 - Selection of pheasant in various forms - terrine, slices etc etc but with a sweet tone;

5 Course #2 - Salmon with green and white asparagus in light creamy source;

6 Course #3 - Monkfish;

7 Course #4 - Sliced sea bass (cold);

8 Course #5 - Beef steak in coriander sauce;

9 Course #6 - Cheese;

10 Predessert - Strawberry based dessert;

11 Course #7 - Chocolate based mousses and icecream;

12 Petit fours #1

13 Petit fours #2 with fresh mint tea.

EUR113.

Drink:

o Glass of house champagne to start;

o Bottle of 1997 Batard Montrachet (EUR268) for the fish courses and cheese;

o Half bottle of Yquem 1989 (EUR229) for the pheasant, desserts and Roquefort;

o Half bottle of Chateau Haut-Brion 1985 (~EUR200) for the steak and cheese.

This food was awesome and deserved this kind of wine. It was truly historic. This food is classic in all meanings of the word. Beware: for a tasting menu, portion sizes were enormous!

As far as ambience goes, I am unsure as to why they feel they need background music, but tables are well spaced and apart from when I first walked in (when it was silent) there was contented chatter throughout the evening.

The only aberration of the whole evening was that until the pheasant arrived I didn't know what it would be like. When it came I immediately realised that it needed a Sauternes and so I ordered an 83 Yquem. After about twenty minutes they came to tell me they hadn't got any left in half bottles, so I ordered an '89 instead. Another twenty minutes later, and they realised that I was waiting for the Yquem to go with the pheasant. This was more due to the fact that I hadn't made it clear, and that my spoken German is non-existent. However I'd have expected them to show some concern over why I hadn't touched a course for forty minutes.

Service seemed to take a while to truly get into gear, but once it had things went fairly smoothly.

Highly recommended and I will certainly return when in Dusseldorf again.

Cheers, Howard [London]

[cinghiale]

Sounds great. Looking for a website for Zur Traube, I checked Gault-Millau, who give them a 19 (Michelin **). As to the wine, the G-M review notes (translating here):

"Kaufmann's cellar is legendary: noble 'Kreszenz' wines [comparable, I believe, to 'grand cru'], but also affordable bottles. If you hunt a bit, you can even find real bargains. His selection of Eisweins and Beerenauslesen from choice vineyards in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer is truly one of a kind. You can find Sassicaia in every vintage from 1976 to 1995, and Vega Sicilia Unico from 1922 to 1990. Kaufmann's champagne list is also breathtaking: for example, Krug complete from 1937 to the present."

Unfortunately, the restaurant doesn't have a website. I'd sure like to take a peek at what else is on their menu, given the stellar review of your meal.

[howardlong]

Sounds great.  Looking for a website for Zur Traube, I checked Gault-Millau, who give them a 19 (Michelin **).  As to the wine, the G-M review notes (translating here):

"Kaufmann's cellar is legendary:  noble 'Kreszenz' wines [comparable, I believe, to 'grand cru'], but also affordable bottles.  If you hunt a bit, you can even find real bargains.  His selection of Eisweins and Beerenauslesen from choice vineyards in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer is truly one of a kind.  You can find Sassicaia in every vintage from 1976 to 1995, and Vega Sicilia Unico from 1922 to 1990.  Kaufmann's champagne list is also breathtaking:  for example, Krug complete from 1937 to the present."

Unfortunately, the restaurant doesn't have a website.  I'd sure like to take a peek at what else is on their menu, given the stellar review of your meal.

Zur Traube webpages

The 'normal' winelist must have 2,000 bins in it and is about 4cm thick. The master winelist of 30,000 entries is the size of three large phone books. Indeed, even the normal winelist orders by country, region, red/white and then year. Makes it surprisingly easy to choose.

Sadly I have very little knowledge of German wines, which I why I stuck to my tried and trusted French wines.

Back to the food, and this quote from the Chef sums it up well for me...

"I would basically say “Honest Cuisine”. Simplicity with emphasis on the flavours from the products. The use of various products should be limited to 2-3 per dish. You should be able taste whatever you read on the menu. For this type of cuisine, you have to use only the best products. There isn’t any other choice, you can’t hide anything".

So classic food without the fussiness of food from the science lab that seems in vogue at the moment.

Cheers, Howard

[Gavin Convery]

Howard,

When you say 'near Dusseldorf', how near do you mean. I go there for business and would be interested in going if it's only a Taxi ride from the centre. Also, were you dining alone? If so did that seem acceptable to the restaurant?

[cinghiale]

I'm sure Howard can be more specific, but I've been researching the restaurant a bit myself. It's actually in Grevenbroich, about 17 miles outside Düsseldorf. The Michelin directions are here.

[howardlong]

Howard,

When you say 'near Dusseldorf', how near do you mean. I go there for business and would be interested in going if it's only a Taxi ride from the centre. Also, were you dining alone? If so did that seem acceptable to the restaurant?

Hi Gavin

You could cab it, but I had a rental car because I had a couple of sites to visit. The town it's in is called Grevenbroich about 30 to 40 minutes away in a car, so you're in the countryside.

They have six rooms there too, and I stayed over (there was no way I was driving with all that grog inside me!).

I was dining alone, but then I often do that anyway. Very hedonistic, but I find it a pleasing way to pass quality time with a good book, and best of all no telephones ringing. I used to think it a bit strange seeing people dining alone, but after one too many appalling room service meals I've learnt to re-adjust!

Cheers, Howard