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1990 Château Meyney Saint – Estephe, $19.99, 12.5% alc.: Still a dark garnet, with barely a hint of brick, this is giving plenty of nice cassis and black currant flavors and aromas, all shaded with notes of earth, cigar box, leather, and what Kim describes as bacon and kalamata olives. There’s a solid core of sweet, deep fruit in an otherwise decidedly dry profile; it’s drinking very well now, with mostly resolved tannins, a velvet mouth feel and a long lovely finish. As it opens over four hours, it just becomes more and more delicious, and best of all, it still has a few years of improvement left in it, if this bottle is any indication.

Imported by Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., New York, NY

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

George Heritier aka geo t.

The Gang of Pour

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