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WTN: '00 Leitz RB Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese


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2000 Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau)

I've tasted this wine twice in the last week. It is one of the rare exceptions to the "2000 is a mediocre vintage" rule. There are many things this wine is or isn't, but I'll leave that list to the end.

Pale yellow color preceeds a nose consisting of apricot and peach, drizzled with a fine wildflower honey, served atop a bed of stones. The wine is definitely sweet, but carries so much stuffing that it comes off as nearly dessert style rather than table wine. There's the perfect "sizzle" of botrytis on the palate mingling with tons of sweet, ripe fruit. The finish is not extraordinarily long, mostly because the acidity clears everything away, leaving just a hint of Riesling and inviting the next sip.

What this wine is not:

It is not really Spätlese.

It is not off-dry.

It is not marred by the bad rot of 2000.

It is not in danger of going downhill as many 2000s are starting to do.

What this wine is:

It is a botrytised auslese (maybe BA) being sold as Spätlese.

It is for very rich food with sweetness as a component.

It is also for drinking by itself as a very relaxing, un-heavy after dinner drink.

It is a great achievement for 2000 and for Leitz.

It is another indication that Johannes Leitz (current owner) is one of the best in the Rheingau.

This wine has been seen languishing on the shelves of major retailers. If you see it give it a shot. Just remember it is more of a dessert style wine than a normal Spätlese.

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