WTN

[wineserver]

A group of regulars at The Wine Vault in Charlotte, NC gathered at Volare Ristorante and shared a bevy of great wines. The following notes are the night's highlights.

1996 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione (San Angelo en Colle)

Lost in the shadow of the anomalous 1997 vintage, 1996 produced wines of more classic style. Il Poggione quietly and consistently produces very good estate bottled Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino with a softer, more traditional character. This wine would benefit from just another year or two in the cellar, but I prefer to drink it just this way. Aromas and flavors are classic Sangiovese...sundried cherry and roma tomato, dried savory herbs, accents of cured tobacco and spicey cedar. The palate was of medium weight with very good balance between acid, tannin, alcohol, and extract. The texture was pleasantly dry with very fine grained, medium intense tannins. As one would expect, Il Poggione does not garner the big point reviews, however if your looking for quality, complexity, and value, Il Poggione delivers.

1996 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina, Pieve di Santa Restituta (Montalcino)

If judged by its appearance, this wine would totally mislead the taster. Its the classic medium intensity rusty garnet that gives no indication of the intensity and concentration that awaits. While more powerful and complex than the previous Brunello, it presented just as much balance and integration. Though the oak regimen at this Gaja estate is similar to that of Il Poggione, the higher percentage of new oak is evident in the Rennina, though beautifully integrated in the wine. Simply stated, this is my current favorite in the enitre Gaja portfolio.

2000 Gagliole Rosso (Castellina en Chianti)

Though the current proprietors have only been commercially producing a wine labeled Gagliole since 1996, this incredibly situated "cru" vineyard has existed for over a thousand years. Hot-to-trot enologist Luca d'Attoma crafts the fruit grown by vineyard manager Dr. Tobias Frommann. The result is approximately 1700 cases of Tuscany's finest Sangiovese. 10% Cabernet adds great depth of purple blue intensity to the appearance of this wine as well as a serious bit of depth in flavor, texture, and tannin. Though decidely the biggest and most modern in profile of these 3 Tuscan reds, Gagliole offers unmistakable Sangiovese aroma and flavor with the texture of a more international wine. I cannot recommend this wine more highly. As a side note, prior to current ownership, this vineyard's fruit went entirely to Siepi.

1995 Barolo Sperss, Gaja (Serralunga d'Alba)

Though a difficult Piedmontese vintage, Gaja's wines are, as expected, superlative. Initially, this wine was not very forthcoming. It took approximately 45 minutes to really open. A bit of advice, do not decant this too early as a recent experience proved 3 hours was too much. It is often very easy to confuse great Nebbiolo and great Sangiovese in a double blind tasting and it was very enlightening to have an opportunity to taste this wine after the three outstanding Sangiovese wines. The appearance was very similar to the 1996 Rennina. The aromas and flavors were more precise and linear with a little less flesh and feel. The tannins and acid were as expected more piercing and severe. When this wine reached its peak it was exponentially more full flavored than when tasted initially. A great example of a great producer transcending the quality of the vintage.

1986 Chateau la Fleur de Gay (Pomerol)

Wow! What a change of pace form the powerfully structured previous wines. When this wine was revealed I was amazed at the freshness and quality from an average Libournais vintage. Once again, the appearance gave no indication of the truly enticing aromas and flavors. Sweet red cherry and asian five spice dominated the nose and palate. The texture was incredibly suave and charming. Oak was still evident and provided a beautiful bit of cinnamon and vanilla complexity. This wine reaffirms the faith of a Bordeaux cynic.

1991 Penfolds Grange (South Australia)

An powerful and emphatic finish to the evening, this wine was unmistakably Grange. Though not very complex, the 1991 is a hedonist's delight. Inky garnet blue in appearance with port like viscosity and staining in the tears, for once the appearance told the taster exactly what was ahead. The aromas and flavors married sweet dilly, coconuty American oak, yes bitchin', with over-ripe dried plums and currants. The texture was huge. Not a personal favorite, but its easy to see why its so popular. For an incredibly complex and well made alternative, try the 1998 Green Vineyards "Forties Old Block" Shiraz from Sergio Carlei in Heathcote, Victoria.

Edited December 6, 2003 by wineserver (log)