WTN: Bruno Giacosa Arneis 2002

[docsconz]

A perfect unoaked white with crisp acidity and lovely fruit, this made a spectacular pairing with caramelized sweetbreads. I had never had this varietal before, although I have had many Giacosa reds. The retail price is around $25/bottle. I find myself moving further and further away from oaked wines. While I still enjoy wines with oak, I no longer do enjoy those in which oakiness is the predominant characteristic.

Last night at dinner with a large group of friends a new restaurant in Saratoga, I had what for me was a revelation. The first wine poured was an Australian shiraz, the name of which escapes me, which was clearly of "the international style", i.e. heavily oaked, but smooth with minimal tannic bite. Not an unpleasant wine, but not one with any real sense of its varietal character. It was an oak wine with a little fruit thrown in. Next, in a new glass was 2000 Cakebread CS. Except for being slightly more tannic, this wine was a twin to the shiraz (fraternal rather than identical ). Once again, not unpleasant, but certainly nothing special. believe it or not, I had previously never had two such wines back to back before. I've certainly had similar wines before back to back, either from the same winery or same varietal, but never two different varietals from widely separated parts of the world that were so similar! I don't think I ever really understood this discussion before now. Vivre le difference! (sp?)