Oh my!

[Florida Jim]

1996 Domaine du Closel, Savennieres “Clos du Papillon” Cuvee Speciale:

a penetrating nose of chamomile, flowers, honey, citrus, quince, rainwater and minerals; at once complex and clean yet fully integrated/

medium body, the texture of cream and once again, while there is even more complexity than the nose (adding hay, apricot, peach and flint to those elements) the overall impression is one of total integration (the essence of Savennieres, if you will) with all the elements strung upon an almost hidden structure, dense, rich, constantly changing but of a single whole, intense, immensely concentrated, very deep, almost marrowy on the palate but still bright, with perfect balance despite its 14% alcohol (not even a suggestion of alcoholic heat)/

very long on the finish with the impression of precise balance amongst the many elements of flavor that echo and meld together.

Challenging, reflective, sublime; perhaps just the slightest RS – not any impression of sweetness but rather of ripe completeness. Great harmony. Delicious and mouth watering.

Enjoyed with a soup Diane made of every green vegetable and leaf she could find with a bit of milk and butter thrown in. A perfect match.

Aside:

I have become very fond of white wines over the past several years – even more so than reds. But none, save the very finest Gruner Veltliners, have impressed me like this. Not white Burgs., not Chablis, not Riesling (from anywhere), not even other Chenin from Vouvray or Layon.

This is one of the best wines I’ve ever had.

About $18, delivered (at release).

Best, Jim

[Carema]

There is just that more shist (sp?) in the soils of Savenierres that cause them to be IMO some of the world's most misunderstood, complicated and unapproachable white wines. But so damned worth investigation. Diane must be brilliant, Chenin works so well with green soup (leaf, pulse or legume) fortified with a knob of butter and a touch of sweet cream.