Comerc 24

[Bux]

I had a terrific lunch at Sant Celoni and, while it may not yet be quite as good as Can Fabes, I thought it was damned good.  So did Len Pickell, Charlie Trotter, the Batterberrys and Roger Yaseen.

Our dinner was dammed good too, but, as I indicated, it didn't come as near Can Fabes as we would have hoped it might. It easily merits the star Michelin has given it, but I was measuring it against Can Fabes and other opinions that it was Madrid's best restaurant. As I've only eaten in Santceloni and La Broche in Madrid--and we didn't have a tasting menu at the latter as my wife was not up to par that night--I can't really offer much opinion about how the top restaurants in Madrid might rank. Sorry if I came across as denigrating Santceloni. I suspect few people will ever run across the need to decide between Santceloni or Sant Celoni on any given night, but I was only offering an opinion relative to Santamaria's two restaurants and it should be understood that Can Fabes holds a position of incredible esteem for us.

I take no issue with your implication that eGullet is not paying just attention to the traditional food of Spain, especially when and where it's excellently executed. One of the things I've mentioned in several threads is that the attraction of Spain for us, is hardly just the creative restaurants, or even the starred restaurants, but the regional and usually hearty foods that provide dimension to our travels as well as relief to what might otherwise become a string of fussy dinners. The curiosity I have about experiencing the work of the most creative chefs is almost an addiction, and understandably, in that light, a curse. Many of the meals and foods that conspire to draw me back to Spain were consumed in out of the way places that we discovered through personal recommendations and dumb luck. As a long standing francophile, I'm intrigued that I'm often luckier in Spain than in France these days.

[paulbrussel]

Next week I will be dining at Comerç 24. My reservation was confirmed. But, since I am dining alone, I could not get a table in the restaurant but have to take a seat at the bar - sounds like New York's Nobu.

I really hope that this doesn't imply that I cannot get the tasting menu. Anyway, I think it's rather odd not to get a table when you are booking a month in advance...

We will see.

[Neil Borscht]

Paul,

I was in Barcelona this past spring and dined solo at Comerc 24.

I made the reservation the day of and sat at a deuce near the bar and in perfect view of the glassed in kitchen. I think they do probably consider this the bar, so don't fret.

I also had the fiesta menu / tasting.

Interesting that the bar / counter area seemed to be regulars and locals being fed more traditional fare. Sometimes being served by the chef in a very rustic way. As in stews ladled straight from the pot.

Perhaps these were friends and family, people who were "foamed" out.

As mentioned here the food was memorable.

Highlights included; salmon eggs with vanilla, tempura onion with soy foam, and multiple little tapas served with instruction. of which "tinned" octopus and mussels, and potatoes with mayonnaise foam stood out IMO.

The service was friendly and casual. Be prepared for a few moments where the server will use the ISI whip creamer tableside. Including in the beginning with a foamed sangria. Knowing the temperment of that machine, I am sure they have picked up a dry cleaning bill or two.

I am sure you are familar with the neighborhood. I wasn't and enjoyed walking off all the carbonation from the cava and assorted foams. A very hip area.

enjoy...

[paulbrussel]

I made the reservation the day of and sat at a deuce near the bar and in perfect view of the glassed in kitchen. I think they do probably consider this the bar, so don't fret.

I also had the fiesta menu / tasting.

Txs a lot! I was a bit afraid, as you gathered right... I am very curious, but can update later if any one would be interested.

I do know BCN - I have been there several times now, sometimes work, mostly for pleasure (= dining), as will be the case now. It is quite a nice area indeed!

[paulbrussel]

Diner (September 2003)

Tasting menu (42 €). Started with an aperitif: Billecart-Salmon Rosé (6,90 €), ordered after good advice a very interesting, characteristic Viña Cimbron 1999.

1) Co2 de mojito.

A small glass filled with liquid and rum; the glass was filled with foam (Adrià) of mint. Nice start with the two tastes that rested separate in the glass but came together in you mouth. Nice combination, but much alcohol.

2) Bikini d'espàrrecs al pesto.

Small sandwich with green asparagus; quite ordinary.

3) Bikini de pernil mozzarella i tartufo.

Another small sandwich with ham, melted mozzarella and truffle. Nice harmony, but still quite normal.

4) Bonitol amb soia i jengibre.

Small piece of tuna in a soy sauce. Little Asiatic influenced though. Tuna with a light smoky taste. Nice.

Another piece of tuna with much more oil, more taste of fish. Nice too.

5) Llauna de xampinyons.

Paris mushrooms, marinated in oil, with garlic and bacon. Seemed very simple but tasted very nice, almost à la campagne.

6) Llauna de barat amb ceciche.

A small fish with tomato, herbs, vinaigrette. To acid for me.

7) Llauna de musclos en escabetx.

Spanish mussels, also a bit acid.

8) Cornete de xips amb escopinys.

A paper cornet filled with some chips and the taste of something like oysters but dried. Very fishy taste and very nice.

9) Ventresca amb pebre sechuan.

Nice, sort of popcorn but tasty because of the sechuan.

10) Madalenes d'olives negres.

To tiny Madeleine cakes of black olives Very nice, very taste. Excellent!

11) Rabes amb vinagre.

Radish with a special but very sharp taste and much acid. Advice to finish this range of dishes was therefore excellent.

12) Tagliatelles vegetals.

Just tagliatelli of cucumber with yoghurt. Just nice.

13) Les sopes d'estiu.

Three summer soups in small glasses. First one with cocos: very nice (and which reminded me very much of the nice soupe glacée of Cavaillon melon of Daniel Boulud).

Second was really a soup with melon, also very nice.

Third soup was concentrated cherry soup: very nice too.

13) Salmó & salmó.

Just salmon with salmon eggs, sauce of vanilla and a little bit of dill. Excellent dish, extremely well balanced.

14) Surprise egg

An egg filled with a sort of sabayon, mixed with truffle. Very, very nice and excellent (which reminded me a bit of the dish Huevo Cremoso con "Tartufo Bianco di Alba" I had last year at Gaig in Barcelona and which was one of the most impressive dishes I had in 20002).

15) Hamburguesa de foie i tófona.

Just a plain hamburger.

16) Llagostins cruixents amb romesco.

A langoustine with a light crust. Very well cooked, just right, and given with the famous and very nice romesco sauce. Excellent, well balanced dish again!

17) Foie i préssec.

Goose liver with peach and just a bit aceto balsamico. I liked the liver, but found it nicer without the fruits… Next to it came a glass with a liquid of red peach which was very nice.

18) Roast beef amb brots al wok.

Very soft roast beef with some groceries "al wok". Good but a bit ordinary.

19) Les tapes dolces.

Four desserts. First a soup of breams (?): nice!

A coupe of 'pinacolada' crème of cocos with a bit of peach at the bottom, very creamy and very nice.

Thirdly, a cream of apricot: very nice too.

To finish with the famous crème brûlée Catalane; just good.

Many small dishes, some very nice, some just nice but not very exciting or showing the creativity I had perhaps too much expected here. [My rating: 15/20.]

[docsconz]

While not as outstanding as it seems you hoped it would be, I still have to marvel at the price. Was that really 42Euros for all of that (I realize the portions were small, but it still takes a lot of work if not ingredients)?

[paulbrussel]

While not as outstanding as it seems you hoped it would be, I still have to marvel at the price. Was that really 42Euros for all of that (I realize the portions were small, but it still takes a lot of work if not ingredients)?

Yes, it was! It was a great and elaborate meal, you are right. And having excellent meals for low prices in BCN - you get used to it, and you almost forget that you seem to be in another world. Used to great and expensive restaurants in the rest of Europe, Spain is a bargain and very interesting - it is so easy to get bored elsewhere.

But I notice that I compare more cuisines inside Spain / Barcelona with each other without comparing to the 'normal' world.

For my 'normal' standards, Comerç 24 is very nice, compared to the other great meals I had in those days in BCN, it was just a very good restaurant.

[Matthew Grant]

15) Hamburguesa de foie i tófona.

Just a plain hamburger.

Wasn't this a miniature DB burger (a centre of Foie Gras)? It was when I went?