The Checkers, Montgomery, Wales.

[david goodfellow]

THE CHECKERS

I love it when the new Michelin guide is published. The eager anticipation of new unheard of places that Michelin deem fitting to include in their guide is one of the highlights of my foodie year. It seems appropriate that Michelin should do the hard work in finding these hidden gems, so that followers like me can benefit without making costly mistakes.

The Checkers is a new one on me, as is the chef Stephane Borie. This Frenchman spent seven years training alongside Michel Roux at the three Michelin starred Waterside Inn. He met his partner and co owner of The Checkers Sarah Francis, whilst working there. I can,t even hazard a guess as to how many very good chefs the Roux dynasty have produced, but suffice to say they are scattered throughout the British Isles and now here in Wales.

Located in the pretty town square the pub has undergone a major refit. Its very effective in its muted colours and feels warm and inviting.

Even though this is now in reality a restaurant I suspect the locals still drop in for a pint or two of the excellent ales on offer.

The menu is reasonably varied with perhaps five starters, six mains, cheese and about six desserts. Oh and did I mention a couple of specials depending on what produce the kitchen are offered on the day.

Bread is home made and is very good indeed.

We got off to a cracking start with my choice of Pheasant and foie gras pithiviers with walnut and granny smith dressing. (£12).

A wonderful plate of food, very well presented. The glossy pastry case displayed the chefs lightness of touch. Delicious gamey pheasant intersperced with foie gras. Crunchy salted walnuts and a silky smooth sauce.

I lusted after my wife,s choice of Pan fried foie gras with quince puree and Monbazillac jus (£13).

Again, this dish presented well. Beautifully seared foie gas which just evaporated in the mouth. Bursting with flavour, and everything in harmony, a glorious plate of food.

A thoughtful slice of (not too sweet) homemade toasted brioche was there to mop up the juices.

I was slightly overwhelmed when my trencherman portion of one of the daily specials arrived, Oxtail,smoked bacon, horseradish mash, (£16). It drew gasps of admiration from a party of four behind us.

Easily enough for two, its not hard to love the generosity of this kitchen. Furthermore, even though its a fairly humble ingredient, this is no cheap dish to produce. A bargain for the money.

Big deep flavours, I suppose essentially a beef bourguignon.

It delivered bigtime.

Again, the other main course displayed the chefs generosity. No measly Michelin style meanness here. Dainty it aint. As good a portion of prime ingredient we have had anywhere. A round of applause please for the kitchen.

Roasted loin of Venison, with creamed potato, curried parsnip puree & garlic and thyme jus.

Needless to say the happy bunny sitting across the table declared it a winner.

We really struggled with desserts. My wife did not want one and truth be told I had overfaced myself on the oxtail.

Still we had travelled nearly two hours to get here, and faced the same long journey back, so it just did not seem right not to try them.

Lemon scented creme brulee with ginger ice cream (£7)

Hot hazelnut souffle (£8)

Both delicious desserts, and both classics, and you can understand why, looking at the photos and of course eating them.

Mid Wales is not easy to access, and even though we don,t (as the crow flies) live so very far from here, the roads can be very difficult to make good time on.

Having said that at no time there or back did we regard this journey as a chore. In fact the joy of the meal was well worth the trip, so don't be put of in the slightest by the location. In fact they are currently running a two night break including dinner for a bargain price. So you could treat yourself perhaps?

As you may gather we think the Michelin guys have got this rating spot on and we are grateful to them for bringing it to our attention. Hope you get chance to try it sometime.

Three course lunch for two, two halves of bitter, bottle of decent house wine, copious Welsh tap water, no tea/coffees, tip. £110.

The Frenchman

[LindaK]

Just beautiful. I'm a sucker for anything savory in puff pastry. Was there any fish on the menu?

[david goodfellow]

Just beautiful. I'm a sucker for anything savory in puff pastry. Was there any fish on the menu?

Hi Linda,

I'm really pleased with those photos. We asked to move table for better light conditions. It makes it all the better for me that they are appreciated, and of course the kitchens work is shown to good advantage.

Of the six starters, smoked salmon with scrambled egg featured and some seared scallops, sweetcorn puree & parmesan nage also.

The six main courses had one vegetarian option, Stuffed Spanish onion with root vegetables, pilau rice & light vegetable nage.

Venison, Pork belly, Celtic pride Beef, plus the two specials were the others. My Oxtail dish was one of them, plus just one fish dish, a Sea Bass dish, but I cannot remember what it was served with.

I suppose that they rely on the land (and local) for ingredients, rather than the sea, even though the sea is really not that far away.

The supply chain for fish may not be that good either.

Some chefs also prefer working with meat, although I'm not sure that is the case here.