Odettes

[david goodfellow]

I can quite understand the appeal of Primrose Hill. From its lofty perch with super views over London, to the quite wonderful village feel, little wonder the rich and famous have flocked here in their droves. Past and present residents include, David Milliband, Jamie, Jools, & Kids Oliver, Geri Halliwell, Tim Burton, Gwen Stefani, Chris Moyles, etc, etc, etc,. This place fairly reaks of old and new money so needless to say you need a shilling or two to live here. We were lucky to not incurr a kings ransom on our recent sunny Saturday lunch visit.

You may not have seen much of Bryn Williams on TV recently except perhaps a Saturday Kitchen appearance or two, but trust me he is still doing the business in Primrose Hill.

Famous of course for his winning dish on Great British Menu, which he served to the Queen Mum about four or five years ago now.

I was eager to see what the Welsh Wizard could conjour up for eighteen quid, the precise cost of a three course lunch at this establishment.

The menu in fairness does not support prime ingredients, however that said, to have a star chef cook for you at this level this really is a steal. Also available between 6 and 7 and with a choice of three dishes at each course you could quite easily eat your way through it lunch and dinner.

"A" started with Marinated Quail, Quail toasty, blue cheese and broccoli which was presented with some quite wonderful bread.

The soda bread was quite outstanding and I may try to make this myself adding some chopped walnuts. The other was rolled with a grain mustard filling and jolly nice it was too.

I really like Quail and eat it whenever it is on a menu however we dont tend to go for the same dish as its nice to try a taste of as much as possible when dining out. We both thought this to be "very tasty"

I was interested to see how the " Baby Squid Salad" would be presented, and was not disappointed. I thought it looked pretty as a picture, and it ate very well too. The featherly light crunchy batter added a texture dimension which was most welcome, lots of moist, sweet bite from the accompanying watermelon, and again some crunch and another flavour from the pistachio crumbs, good dish overall.

I noticed the winning GBM dish was on the carte menu, and in truth I don't suppose it has ever been off it. Good thing too as it gives people a chance to taste what three respected critics chose for the Queen Mums birthday meal.

Of course we had to try it,

Pan Fried Turbot, Braised Oxtail, Cockles, Samphire, was split between us, and plated thoughtfully so as we did not have to fight for the last little bit.

The Turbot, cockles and samphire screamed of the sea. The Oxtail had four feet firmly on the land, but what a marriage, one of the few that seems to work these days. A great bit of cooking

Next up was Confit Haddock, with Fish Cake, pak choi, and a wonderful shellfish bisque. Again the crunch from the fish cake added good texture next to the flaky Haddock, pak choi also did its bit, not at all bad this dish.

My wife was not on the fish fest that I was so I let her choose the dish that I desired the most which was Braised Pork cheek, Polenta, Courgette and Tomato.

I suppose I could have gone into caveman mode and clubbed her into submission but strange as it may be if I win an argument these days, my food tastes like Whiskas for the following few days, I wonder why?

I did manage about half of one of the three cheeks, my wife scoffed the rest immersed in her own little world. The little battered battons are actually lamb belly and clearly two type of courgette, I remember a tomato and red onion sauce. A real moreish dish this I am eating it now just looking at the photo.

We skipped desserts as we thought the cheese was more appealing, all the way from West Wales was Perl wen cheese an organic Cows milk with a brie type appearance this was served with some fig marmalade, which I suspect was home made.

I nearly forgot the exquisite crispbreads coated in poppy seeds. A very good end to a very good meal.

Bryn was in the kitchen on the day and after service ensconsed himself in his office to do some work on his new book which will be out early next year. He popped up to say hello, which was very nice of him and posed for this photo.

Another very pleasant lunch at a jaw dropping price, do pop along for some cracking cooking from a top chef.

Our bill actually came out at £81 which included the extra course @ £21 and a bottle of wine for £19 plus of course the dreaded 12.5% service. Still pretty reasonable for a posh nosh for two from a top chef.

If you fancy a job in Bryn's kitchen (according to his twitter account) he is recruiting chefs, but you have to be pretty damb good though