Magret of Duck with Walnut and Garlic Sauce (Languedoc, southwest Fran

[Marina Chang]

Magret of Duck with Walnut and Garlic Sauce (Languedoc, southwest France)

Serves 4.

Recipe from Tastes of the Pyrenees, Classic and Modern by Marina Chang (Hippocrene Books, February 2003. $24.95 hardcover). Thanks to the author and publishers for sharing this with us.

Southwest France is well known for many food products, ducks and walnuts being two of them. Magret is the breast meat from the large Muscovy or Moulard ducks in the southwest of France that are force-fed for foie gras. The magret is much thicker than the breasts of other ducks and has a nutty, rich taste, similar to a good steak. Magret has long been a delicacy commonly available only in southwest France, the land of foie gras. Happily, it is now served throughout France, and fine dining establishments in the United States. As with a good steak, magret is usually served with a rare center.

This walnut and garlic sauce or aillade, a variation on allioli, originates from the Languedoc region. In the language of the Occitan, the culture which gave rise to the region's name, Langue d'Oc, this sauce is called Alhad Tolosenca. In Languedoc, this would be made with the local sweet, extremely flavorful, pink garlic "dAlbi," which is primarily grown in and around Lautrec. The ail rose de Lautrec, which is planted in early winter and harvested in June and July, is the most popular variety. The walnut oil, or huile de noix, adds an exceptionally fine flavor to the sauce. It is pressed in autumn, when the nuts are first spread out to dry on wooden balconies of farm houses and then taken to mills in sacks for crushing by huge millstones. The southwest region of France is well known for the resulting walnut oil.

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Walnut Garlic Sauce:

• 2/3 c walnuts, in small pieces
  
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  
• 1/8 tsp salt
  
• 2 tsp lemon juice
  
• 1/2 c walnut oil
  

Magret/Duck Breasts:

• 4 duck breasts, boned, with skin on
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
  

For Walnut Garlic Sauce:

Using a blender or food processor, process walnuts into a purée. Add garlic, salt, and 2 tablespoons of cold water. Continue blending. Add lemon juice and process for 5 to 10 seconds to purée all ingredients together. Begin adding walnut oil in a thin stream. If the food pusher in your processor has a small hole in the middle, feed the oil through it. Make sure the mixture stays thick, and all the oil is incorporated before more is added. To let flavors combine, let the sauce sit for approximately an hour.

If you find that your mixture has separated, pour out the excess oil that floats to the top, and save it for another use. The remaining mixture will be the consistency of a thick sour cream. Give it a stir and serve it in dollops with the duck. It will taste just as good.

For magret/Duck Breasts:

Score the skin with a sharp knife, making cross-hatch marks 1/2 to 1-inch apart, across its surface. Season both sides of each breast with salt and pepper.

Indoor Method: In a hot skillet over medium heat, place the breasts skin side down. Cook approximately 8 minutes, or until the skin is browned. The skin will have released more than enough fat to coat the bottom of the pan. Toss in shallots, and turn each piece over. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes more, depending on the desired level of rareness. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels, to absorb excess fat. Cover with foil to keep warm and allow the meat to rest for 2 minutes.

Outdoor Method: If possible build a fire using grape vines. Another type of wood or charcoal fire will also work well. Grill the seasoned duck breasts over the fire, as you would a steak. When cooked to the desired level, scatter chopped shallots in a plate and place meat over them. Cover with foil or another plate. Place in a warm spot near the fire for 10 minutes. After 5 minutes spoon any juices released over the meat and re-cover.

Slice duck breasts and serve with walnut garlic sauce.

Although true magrets are difficult to come by in the United States, and the price is very dear when they are found, the breast of an easily available Long Island duck serves as a fine substitute.

Keywords: French, Main Dish, Duck

( RG346 )