Il Pagliaccio, Roma

[Kropotkin]

Il Pagliaccio, Roma http://www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it/

Il Pagliaccio nestles demurely in Via dei Banchi Vecchie - one of those few streets of the centro storico that are known to Romans in search of a decent meal, but that elude many of the tourists thronging nearby piazzas. It opened about four years ago and has been accruing favourable attention ever since. Yet I’m surprised to find that it hasn’t raised any discussion on this site - so here’s an account of a dinner in early March 2008 to start things off…

As befits the name, the external appearance of this place masks a different interior. While this isn’t the luxurious accommodation of some higher end joints, once beyond the understated exterior you are surrounded by subtle, cool décor that offers a neat, minimalist take on Roman white walls and exposed beams. The larger of the two dining rooms (which stretches the length of the restaurant from front to back) is also warmer in tone and atmosphere. When the menus arrive it is immediately clear that Il Pagliaccio propounds an inventive style that wouldn’t suit traditionalists (although in stark contrast to their innovation in the kitchen, why the anachronism whereby only the menu presented to the male lists any prices?). The menu offers a carte plus a range of set menus (at four, five and six courses, if I recall correctly). The four-course, we learnt, gestured towards traditional Roman specialities. I’m often interested by new takes on traditional staples, and I guessed that this menu entailed pork, lamb and their associated innards - and so it transpired…

The sommelier recommended an extremely well structured Chianti that he was (quite correctly) very proud of (€38). This was from a decent list (although one with more high-end prices than some comparable places) and it arrived along with an appetiser of a potato croquette on a parsley sauce topped with lemon foam - all of which cleansed the palate as well as these flavours promise. The first course was belly pork with pecorino, artichoke and field mushrooms. This was a little disappointing. Although good individually, I wasn’t convinced by the combination of these elements and the pork hadn’t reached the melting stage that can make this dish so memorable. It wasn’t bad, but not as good as I’d hoped. The pasta dish that followed offered something offally (I can't remember the specific name) alongside chanterelles, but was the weakest of the night as none of the elements contributed clear or complementary flavours. The meal perked up when a beautiful piece of lamb appeared with accompanying sweetbreads, a spinach and cheese ball, and artichoke and spinach purées. Again, the various elements on the plate didn’t all chime perfectly - but things were improving. A granita of campari garnished with an olive and a ball of olive-oil ice-cream proved a sublime and witty pre-dessert. It preceded a splendid, crunchy chocolate and clementine torte with a crown of pine-nuts and another nut I couldn’t place. The coffee and petit fours were also very good to leave us in much better spirits than I’d anticipated an hour or so earlier. Throughout service was efficient and friendly – especially from the very cheerful and welcoming maître d’.

Overall, this was a fair dinner although, in truth, I expected a little more from this place. Perhaps the kitchen was hamstrung by trying to interpret Roman staples when their real interests lie in the innovative style that characterises the rest of their menus? Yet at €190 for two, shouldn't they provide quality across the board? If this place were any more pricey I probably wouldn’t return. As it stands, I may visit again but before doing so, I’ll be interested to hear what the Romans (and honorary Romans) on this board think of Il Pagliaccio…

[Maureen B. Fant]

Il Pagliaccio, Roma     http://www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it/

Overall, this was a fair dinner although, in truth, I expected a little more from this place.  Perhaps the kitchen was hamstrung by trying to interpret Roman staples when their real interests lie in the innovative style that characterises the rest of their menus?  Yet at €190 for two, shouldn't they provide quality across the board?  If this place were any more pricey I probably wouldn’t return.  As it stands, I may visit again but before doing so, I’ll be interested to hear what the Romans (and honorary Romans) on this board think of Il Pagliaccio…

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I had dinner there a couple of weeks ago with five Italians. I don't recognize the dishes you describe probably because the menu is in flux. We all found everything superb and extremely imaginative. My only complaint about the service was they started speaking English to us as soon as they heard my fluent but accented Italian, and I can't swear they didn't start even before that. I thought the tortelli di fegato grasso e tapioca were out of this world.

Edited March 17, 2008 by Maureen B. Fant (log)

[Maureen B. Fant]

Il Pagliaccio, Roma     http://www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it/

...

Overall, this was a fair dinner although, in truth, I expected a little more from this place.  Perhaps the kitchen was hamstrung by trying to interpret Roman staples when their real interests lie in the innovative style that characterises the rest of their menus?  Yet at €190 for two, shouldn't they provide quality across the board?  If this place were any more pricey I probably wouldn’t return.  As it stands, I may visit again but before doing so, I’ll be interested to hear what the Romans (and honorary Romans) on this board think of Il Pagliaccio…

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I had dinner there a couple of weeks ago with five Italians. I don't recognize the dishes you describe, probably because the menu is in flux. We all found everything superb and extremely imaginative. My only complaint about the service was they started speaking English to us as soon as they heard my fluent but accented Italian, and I can't swear they didn't start even before that. I thought the tortelli di fegato grasso e tapioca were out of this world.

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[Kropotkin]

Thanks for the thoughts Maureen – most interesting. I should have clarified that I was judging Il Pagliaccio against its growing reputation as one of the very best restaurants in the city, and against some comparable Michelin-starred places elsewhere: hence my steep expectations. And, although I was pleased with the evening, I suspected that I hadn’t seen the best of them - so I’m pleased to hear that I may have reason to return.

I also forgot to add that, in my opinion, they provide reasonable value too.

They sniffed out my mother-tongue when the wine-list arrived and all switched seamlessly into English in an instant: very impressive, if very frustrating!

[Maureen B. Fant]

Thanks for the thoughts Maureen – most interesting.  I should have clarified that I was judging Il Pagliaccio against its growing reputation as one of the very best restaurants in the city, and against some comparable Michelin-starred places elsewhere: hence my steep expectations.  And, although I was pleased with the evening, I suspected that I hadn’t seen the best of them - so I’m pleased to hear that I may have reason to return. 

I also forgot to add that, in my opinion, they provide reasonable value too. 

They sniffed out my mother-tongue when the wine-list arrived and all switched seamlessly into English in an instant: very impressive, if very frustrating!

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On my first visit, maybe a couple of years ago, I had sort of the same impression you did -- willing to try again but not blown away. But I thought it was a very nice place. This recent dinner was something else. I thought it right up there with the stars or nearly. Everything on the menu looked wonderful, and our group tried quite a few different dishes, and everyone was happy. And all the trimmings and trappings were there too. I'd expect a star next time Michelin checks.

[Kropotkin]

I think they do have a star, although I'm not sure when it was bestowed - perhaps two years ago? I'd say my meal was at the lower end of the 1-star range, but I don't think I saw them at their best and from what you say, I'm not surprised that they're keeping their star.

Edit: the viamichelin website confirms one star

Edited March 18, 2008 by Kropotkin (log)

[fortedei]

Il Pagliaccio, Roma    http://www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it/

Il Pagliaccio nestles demurely in Via dei Banchi Vecchie - one of those few streets of the centro storico that are known to Romans in search of a decent meal, but that elude many of the tourists thronging nearby piazzas.  It opened about four years ago and has been accruing favourable attention ever since.  Yet I’m surprised to find that it hasn’t raised any discussion on this site - so here’s an account of a dinner in early March 2008 to start things off…

As befits the name, the external appearance of this place masks a different interior.  While this isn’t the luxurious accommodation of some higher end joints, once beyond the understated exterior you are surrounded by subtle, cool décor that offers a neat, minimalist take on Roman white walls and exposed beams.  The larger of the two dining rooms (which stretches the length of the restaurant from front to back) is also warmer in tone and atmosphere.  When the menus arrive it is immediately clear that Il Pagliaccio propounds an inventive style that wouldn’t suit traditionalists (although in stark contrast to their innovation in the kitchen, why the anachronism whereby only the menu presented to the male lists any prices?).  The menu offers a carte plus a range of set menus (at four, five and six courses, if I recall correctly).  The four-course, we learnt, gestured towards traditional Roman specialities.  I’m often interested by new takes on traditional staples, and I guessed that this menu entailed pork, lamb and their associated innards - and so it transpired…

The sommelier recommended an extremely well structured Chianti that he was (quite correctly) very proud of (€38).  This was from a decent list (although one with more high-end prices than some comparable places) and it arrived along with an appetiser of a potato croquette on a parsley sauce topped with lemon foam - all of which cleansed the palate as well as these flavours promise.  The first course was belly pork with pecorino, artichoke and field mushrooms.  This was a little disappointing.  Although good individually, I wasn’t convinced by the combination of these elements and the pork hadn’t reached the melting stage that can make this dish so memorable.  It wasn’t bad, but not as good as I’d hoped.  The pasta dish that followed offered something offally (I can't remember the specific name) alongside chanterelles, but was the weakest of the night as none of the elements contributed clear or complementary flavours.  The meal perked up when a beautiful piece of lamb appeared with accompanying sweetbreads, a spinach and cheese ball, and artichoke and spinach purées.  Again, the various elements on the plate didn’t all chime perfectly - but things were improving.  A granita of campari garnished with an olive and a ball of olive-oil ice-cream proved a sublime and witty pre-dessert.  It preceded a splendid, crunchy chocolate and clementine torte with a crown of pine-nuts and another nut I couldn’t place.  The coffee and petit fours were also very good to leave us in much better spirits than I’d anticipated an hour or so earlier.  Throughout service was efficient and friendly – especially from the very cheerful and welcoming maître d’. 

Overall, this was a fair dinner although, in truth, I expected a little more from this place.  Perhaps the kitchen was hamstrung by trying to interpret Roman staples when their real interests lie in the innovative style that characterises the rest of their menus?  Yet at €190 for two, shouldn't they provide quality across the board?  If this place were any more pricey I probably wouldn’t return.  As it stands, I may visit again but before doing so, I’ll be interested to hear what the Romans (and honorary Romans) on this board think of Il Pagliaccio…

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Yousaid: "The sommelier recommended an extremely well structured Chianti that he was (quite correctly) very proud of (€38). " What does it mean to have an extremely well structured Chianti and what was it?

[Kropotkin]

The sommelier described this Chianti he was so enthusiastic about as well structured, which I took to mean it was well balanced (between the tannin, fruit etc). I'd thought a Chianti would be too heavy for some of the menu we had selected, but he assured us that this one would not overpower the lighter dishes - and he was right. Perhaps it wasn't your typical Chianti? However, I can't recall the name now - sorry!

[Kropotkin]

If we believe the June 2008 UK issue of Conde Nast Traveller magazine (and, more particularly, their correspondent Lee Marshall) Il Pagliaccio stands as the third best place to eat in Rome these days. It’s not clear what criteria produced the list (which I guess I should post elsewhere), but Chef Genovese was pleased enough with the recognition to pose for a portrait while holding a huge cabbage…