Cuchifritos at Papa Rudy's

[Miami Danny]

I don't know whose 'papa' Papa Rudy is, but he's my daddy now. In Puerto Rican neighborhoods, while the neon sign in the window blinking 'Cuchifritos' means PR Soul Food, it can also mean a specific dish; one a grandmother might make to remind her family of their Borinquen heritage. Here, the order of cuchifritos, which in this case is a light stew of pig parts (I'm pretty sure I inhaled some semi-crunchy strips of ears, maws, and stomach, and maybe some tongue, too), surrounded by two baked green bananas (con guineo), was perfect for a hot late summer day. I like to sit outside on a stool at Papa Rudy's, and sweat profusely, thus replicating the tropical weather of Old San Juan, or Summer on 115th St, for that matter, and, multitasking Miami-style, I work on my tan. I also order a pastel, which is not a sweet, but is like a Mexican tamal, although I believe the pastel is made with mashed plantains and maybe malanga, or another root vegetable, instead of corn meal. There are pieces of pork and chicken inside, and some red peppers. The pastel is starchy and substantial, yet also moist and not overly filling. After the first few forkfuls I ping-ed on some hot sauce and squeezed out a lime wedge.

I felt that the cuchifritos was cooked to perfection. Why add anything? The ingredients list for this dish might seem forbidding, and the impression one might get is of a heavy wintry bowl of 'mystery meats', but, honestly, it reminded me of the most delicate French haute preparations of tripe or other 'variety cuts' I have ever eaten, and I have eaten a lot of innards, my friend, a lot of innards. It's a homey, country-style dish, but urbane and welcoming, not heavy at all, a little wistful, even. And then as I asked for the check, sipping from my Styrofoam container, the five spoons of sugar the waitress had jackhammered into my large cafe con leche woke me out of my reverie.

PAPA RUDY'S

7173 FLAGLER, MIAMI, FL

OPEN 24/7

Photos, and the backstory, at DailyCocaine

[annecros]

I love it. My Puerto Rican neighbor tosses a sack full of pastel over the fence from time to time in an elaborate bartering system we have set up.

They are in fact, or at least her in version of them, malanga and plantain. And oh so good! I think she uses exclusively pork and parts.

[Miami Danny]

I love it. My Puerto Rican neighbor tosses a sack full of pastel over the fence from time to time in an elaborate bartering system we have set up.

They are in fact, or at least her in version of them, malanga and plantain. And oh so good! I think she uses exclusively pork and parts.

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Sounds like a delicious system...What does she get in return? Edited February 15, 2008 by Miami Danny (log)

[annecros]

Tomatoes and peppers from the garden. I must have sent a five pound sack last week. There was a cake and tamales at Christmas I sent over. I sometimes feed her retired husband lunch when she is tied up at work and he is doing the yard.. They have avacado and plantain growing that they share. Sometimes she will send over her pigeon peas and rice that she knows I am fond of - not the standard fare, she does something special and won't tell.

It was a lot of fun Christmas Eve when the kids came in - a steamer full of pasteles (although I think the pasteles are boiled initially) and a steamer full of tamales. They couldn't decide which were better - but they are seasoned so differently there really is no comparison.

It all works out. We just both check for the bag hanging on our side of the fence regularly.