TN: An assortment

[Florida Jim]

2006 Alesia, Pinot Noir Green Valley:

For both Diane and me, this wine was an unexpected treat. California is not our first language when it comes to pinot but this wine was easy to understand and delicious. Quintessential left-coast in style but almost no wood, no overworking, clean, clear flavors, some minerality and a very balanced delivery. Proportional is the word that comes to mind; everything in its place and well integrated. May need six months to a year to peak but really charming now. 14.1% alcohol and price unknown; I’d love to drink it again.

2005 Phiippe Faury, St. Joseph:

Attractive nose of fresh meat, olive and black fruit with light spice notes; round in the mouth but with good cut, flavors that echo the nose and a seamless delivery; medium length finish. Perhaps, my fourth bottle of this since release and every bit as good as the first.

On day two this is more fruit driven and open but less integrated; probably should be drunk within the next 5 years or so.

12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; I’ll buy more.

2006 Viñedos de Nieva, Rueda Blanco Nieva:

100% verdejo this has aromas of apple, flowers, grapefruit skin and perm solution, the latter being a bit off-putting; concentrated and viscous in the mouth, the fruit flavors repeat, the perm solution note is gone but the wine seems ponderous (‘long time since I said that about a white) and the texture seems headed toward light syrup; medium finish. Re-corked and put in the fridge.

Day two: even ice cold this is very potent and full bodied with extremely powerful flavors – this may be a better wine with a couple years in the cellar but its hard to say right now; it just shows so raw. I like my Rueda a bit more elegant (ala Martinsancho) but this certainly has its place for those who want muscle and concentration. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine and about $12; probably not.

2005 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:

An exuberant, unrefined, not yet integrated nebbiolo with good concentration, intensity and power. Lots of stuffing here but needs cellar time to mellow and round out; almost a barrel sample today. Compared to a recent 2001 version, this is more powerful but not near as complex. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $30; I bought a few.

2001 Sella, Lessona:

On the other hand, this mostly nebbiolo wine is very fine grained, balanced and complex with a nod toward traditional Barbaresco. Quite a contrast from the late-model Giacosa and very enjoyable. 13% alcohol, imported by Select Estates of Europe and about $27, worth it.

2004 Yalumba, Grenache Tricentenary Vines:

I tasted this before I read the label and quite enjoyed it – the label said “Australia, grenache, 14.5% and aged 10 months in French Oak hogsheads;” all things that, in most instances, would send me running – but this is the exception to the rule; it tastes more like syrah then grenache, doesn’t seem over-ripe, has some depth and character, its texture is more silk than milk-shake and it’s a more graceful then expected. This old dog learned a new trick. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Negociants U.S.A and price unknown; I’d enjoy drinking it again.

2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois:

My “go to” white these days, this is all about the fruit and there are absolutely no oak, vanilla, cream or buttery notes noticeable. It’s got mineral elements, structure and a bit of earthiness but, God bless Stéphane Tissot, the fruit sings. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $23; I bought loads. Viva la Jura!

Best, Jim