[MSP] Pittsburgh Blue

[Brad Ballinger]

My wife and I met a friend for dinner recently. The friend lives in Maple Grove. I wanted to try Kay's Wine Bar, but the friend said it is often crowded and tough to get in. So she steered us toward Pittsburgh Blue instead -- "For people who work hard and want to be rewarded." They also boast "a feedlots worth of parking." And, as far as what to wear: "Come in a stretch limo or stretch pants; there's no dress code at Pittsburgh Blue."

It's a steakhouse first and foremost. The name comes from how steak is sometimes orderd -- black and blue, or "Pittsburgh" blue, charred on the outside, cool and raw (or close to it) on the inside. And, from the menu descriptions, the steak portions are huge -- including the Ribeye "Tomohawk Chop" for two ($32.95 each). One-third to one-half of the entree items are over $30, and the least expensive one is the buttermilk fried chicken ($16.95). As for sides, etc., this is an a la carte menu.

Looking around us and taking note of the portion sizes, we decided to play it low key. We each ordered the Steakhouse Wedge salad ($6.95) and also the Cold Seafood Sampler appetizer tray for the table -- four raw oyster, three cooked and chilled shrimp, a mold of tuna tartare and half a chilled lobster tail ($39.95). The salad was enormous for the price. The appetizer tray not so much.

Food quality was okay. The mignonette granita to go with the oysters was good, and I appreciated it as a granita and not a sauce. The lobster seemed a bit overcooked.

The wine list is primarily domestic, and there is a wide price range with overall accessible pricing. You can spend more on your steak than on a bottle of wine -- just what a Pittsburgh steelworker might prefer if you read between the lines of the marketing.

Not having ordered steak at a steakhouse, I can't really comment on the restaurant's main draw and focus. At 8:00 on a Thursday night, it was full and people were waiting. By 9:45, we were one of three tables still occupied. Two people were in the bar.

The Twin Cities doesn't have many steakhouse joints (if you don't count the chains), especially outside of the urban core. I don't know mow much Pittsbrugh Blue will compete with Gianni's in Wayzata. Gianni's is quite a bit higher-priced, so that may create some migration.

Pittsburgh Blue is located in the parking lot of the largest Arbor Lakes retail complex. I expect it to create a good draw, even if it is deserted by 10:00 on a weeknight.