Grange Cafe

[Dave Weinstein]

A few weeks ago, we went to the Grange Cafe in Duvall.

We were impressed enough that we talked to the Chef about doing a tasting menu for our anniversary.

That was tonight, and we were impressed enough to post about it. Pictures may follow, depending on the quality (cell phone cameras). Any errors in description are likely mine.

I exchanged email with Chef Hansen, detailing what we individually did and didn't like (as well as dietary restrictions), and after giving him a price point, asked that we not know what the food would be in advance.

First Course: Fried Chicken Oysters with a Tomato Aoli

As it happens, that is my wife's favorite part of the chicken, taken from along the backbone. They were nicely fried, and the aoli complimented the chicken nicely. A good start.

Second Course: Salad with Rabbit Confit, Rabbit loin, Sliced Apple, and Aged Gouda with a Currant Vinaigrette

I am enormously fond of this style of salad (featuring meats, cheeses, and sharp vinaigrette), and this was beautifully executed. The rabbit was perfectly cooked, and the whole dish just sang.

Third Course: Curried Carrot Soup

Almost a refresher, this was a hot soup (in temperature) served cappucino style, and again, this was just an outstanding dish.

Fourth Course: Scallops Wrapped in Bacon over a Leek Sauce OR Seared Foie Gras and a single Scallop Wrapped in Bacon with Persimmon Marmelade

At the risk of running out of superlatives, this was the best Foie dish I've ever had. It was crisp on the outside, and soft and splendid inside, and the pairing just worked. This was a split course because I'm fond of offal, and my wife generally isn't.

Fifth Course: Veal and Winter Vegetables in a Thyme Cream Sauce, under Pastry

For what was (as described by the Chef) a form of pot pie, this was outstandingly light. The pastry was a puff pastry rather than a heavy dough, and I'm not sure that anything heavier would have worked, because the sauce itself was light (cream, herbs, veal stock) rather than heavy.

Sixth Course: Braised Pork Belly over Turnip Puree with Celery Root Fries OR A Sweetbread and Leek Tart

Again, I had the offal. And again, this was a delight. Sweetbreads between pastry, over a leek sauce. My wife loved the pork belly (and it was indeed excellent), but I'd still give the edge to the sweetbreads here.

Seventh Course: Venison in a Blackcurrant Sauce over Spaetzl OR Seared Lamb over Adzuki and Navy Beans

We shared these plates, and this is the first time where I would say the food was merely good, rather than extraordinary. The venison was good rather than great, although the way the sauce (which I had had before with Duck) blended with the flavors of the venison was excellent. The lamb was perfectly cooked, however, I'm not an enormous fan of beans (something I had not mentioned in the email discussions).

Eighth Course: Huckleberry Cobbler with Pistachio Ice Cream

And we end with a lovely finish. A nice tart cobbler, with a bit of a sweet biscuit crust, and topped with pistachio ice cream.

Cost Per Person: $95 plus Tax and Tip

Fine dining, just a few blocks from my house, without my needing to live in Seattle to make that happen. I am very very happy.

Restaurant Web Site: http://www.grangecafe.com