Crush notes

[Florida Jim]

Part 1:

Greetings from Sonoma County, where, for the last ten days I have been helping Bevan Cellars, Dry Stack Cellars, Argot Wines, Westerhold Family Vineyards and others during the 2007 crush. It’s not the first time I have been here for harvest but it is easily more work this time then in years past.

The producers mentioned are doing mostly Bennett Valley bottlings of syrah and this year, I am making a little of that same variety for myself. The learning curve is ascending at a furious rate; I feel like such a novice among so many talented people.

But all work and no play . . . so here are some brief thoughts on some wines or soon to be wines, tasted:

The 2005 Bevan Cellars, Syrah is the real deal. We had it at about 4 hours open and it still was a little cranky showing more acidic than I would expect. But at about 6 hours in the decanter it opened to reveal a wine of great concentration yet one of finesse. As with any great wine, such a paradox is the rule rather than the exception and this is a great wine.

A bottle of 2005 Lttoirai, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast was so earthy, graceful and intense it was (and is) hard to put into words the delight it engendered. I hope it enough to say that this bottle appealed to me as few other domestic pinots ever have.

We opened a beautiful bottle of the 2000 Raveneau, Butteaux over dinner the other night with oysters and it did what I have come to expect; compliment the food as only fine Chablis can and continue to expand and morph in the glass over time to show its pedigree. If only I could afford more of this . . .

The 2006 Dry Stack, Sauvignon Blanc, continues to be a favorite of mine and I suspect we will all be hearing nice things about this wine in the press. Unfortunately, it is sold out but the 2007 is in tank and tastes very similar to the ’06 at this same stage of development.

And I would also look out for the 2007 Dry Stack, Viognier, which is 100% barrel fermented, has alcohols more in my world than is the custom and remarkable acidity. I think this wine will change the way consumers look at this variety domestically.

Westerhold Vineyards has planted entirely to Alban clone syrah and they could not have made a better choice. The fruit has a special intensity and character; forthcoming releases should prove worthy of a taste or two. Russell is making the wine so it will be bigger, bad-der and best-est – on that you may depend.

Argot is a new project for Justin and Karissa Harmon and promises to be another fine expression of a remarkable Bennett Valley vineyard know as Dry Stack. Lots of good folks have used fruit from this vineyard including Bevan Cellars, Lewis, Pax and others – a vineyard of real character.

And just in case you think I’ve been seduced by the ‘dark side,’ I did have a lovely 2005 Chignard, Fleurie the other night and a 2005 Vissouux, Poncie several days ago – as exquisite and joyous as ever. Viva la difference!

Another ten days to go; I hope my body holds out and that this vintage yields the results its initial signs indicate.

Part 2:

Two wineries that I think deserve mention have tasting rooms across the street from each other in Healdsburg. John Holdridge is making really nice, elegant pinot noir that is both feminine and intense. I especially liked the Bucher Vineyard but there are four to choose from, each with its own individual personality. Also, Guy Davis of Davis Family Wines is making a number of varietals including one of the best syrahs (designated Guyzer Block) I tasted in the three weeks I was in Sonoma and Napa, as well as a Napa cabernet sauvignon that was correct and by no means, overdone. Both of these houses have broken away from the typical “full-tilt boogie” style and are creating wines with moderate alcohols, solid flavors, understated oak and excellent character. Do try them if you get a chance.

Making wine is both exciting and tiring. As I mentioned elsewhere, I tried my hand at it this trip and will have about 25 cases of syrah bottled from my barrel sometime next year. I also helped several other makers with their harvest and it is going to take a little while to recover.

Crush is an extraordinary experience for uninitiated. Everything needs to be done now (or yesterday) and scheduling is done on the fly. When there is fruit to sort, no one sleeps until it is; when there is pressing to be done, we stayed with it to the end. And I think 75% of the time I spent at the winery was dedicated to sanitation. To paraphrase Vince, sanitation isn’t everything, it’s the only thing.

Getting up before the sun rises and going to bed long after it has set becomes the norm. And at the facility where I worked, everyone helps everyone else in a crunch.

I’m whipped, I have scars and wounds and I would do this as an occupation in a heartbeat. Old dogs, new tricks . . .

Some wines tasted that impressed (aside from those reported earlier):

1999 Gangloff, Côte Rôtie: Young but beautiful with complexity, elegance and breed. I had thought this house was using a little to much wood from time to time, but not here.

2002 V. Dauvissat, Les Preuses: Painfully young but with oysters and a little time open, it showed more than we had any right to expect. Hold for ten years and serve it to someone you love.

2001 Fanti, Brunello: Polished and balanced with deep fruit, lovely aromas and good length. Drunk without food and thoroughly enjoyed.

2006 Tandem, Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vnyd.: Graceful, bright and full of flavor and judging from a 2001 I also tasted, destined for development in the cellar.

2006 Bjørnstad Cellars, Pinot Noir Hellenthal Vnyd.: A baby but with airing, this took on weight and detail that were so good I just quit tasting all the other wines that were available (and there were quite a few).

Lastly, for those of you who get to barrel taste with Russell Bevan of Bevan Cellars, make him take you to Napa Wine Company to try a barrel of his 2006 cabernet; the one that is purest cassis. It is a remarkable barrel of wine with a purity of fruit that is unique.

To all who made my trip what it was, my thanks.

Until next year . . .

Best, Jim