Da Guido

[Peter Rodgers]

Noting Robert Brown's February report re Relais St. Maurizio and the relocation of Da Guido, I am curious to learn if anyone is aware of whether the move actually has taken place. We have a reservation at Guido on October 2nd and as far as I can tell (without calling), they are still at the old location. Additionally, the hotel site continues to say that it is under construction.

[robert brown]

Peter, we wanted to go to Relais San Maurizio in mid-July under the assumption that it would be open, based on their telling me at the site last fall that the projected opening was this past May. I called the hotel-restaurant owned by the late Guido's daughter-in-law. A man there told me that the San Maurizio was opening July 26. Not wanting to be there during their shake-down period, we did not go. But it is now open. As for Ristorante Guido, the old place in Costigliole d'Asti will operate until December 31. How being spread out in two enterprises will affect the quality is something one can't know without eating at both places. My guess is that Guido's wife will be cooking in one place and son Andrea in the other. You could phone the restaurant and ask Ugo, Andrea's brother, who speaks some English (but better French). I think that the old restaurant will be as good as always. Where are you staying, as there are now a few quite comfortable places, though San Marizio is the fanciest. (Castello in Villa in the upper part of Costigliole is very pleasant and comfortable. Villa Beccarus in Monforte d'Alba is a favorite as well, but about 45 minutes away. However, it is smack in the middle of Barolo country and surrounded by incredible vineyard landscapes).

[Peter Rodgers]

Thanks for the reply. We will hang in with our reservation at the old location and try the new one next time. I speak Italian and hope that I can provide an update on our return. Worth adding that we have a gastronic tour planned for the Alba area over four days. Our reservations, other than Guido (at which we have dined a dozen times) include Da Cesare, Al Enoteca, Trattoria della Posta, Gardino da Felicin, La Contea, Il Centro in Priocca, and La Luna nel Posto. Aware of others like Cascinale Nuovo and Ciau del Tornavento, but is there anything else we are missing.

[Peter Rodgers]

Forgot to mention that we are staying at the Castello di Villa, a step up for our usual pedestrian lodgings at I Castilli in Alba. The Alba area is our bar none favorite spot in Italy for food, wine and scenery. I have been traveling to Italy for forty years and other than Liguria, the Lake Country, the Amalfi Coast and the Alto Adige, wouldn't bother with much else.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I'm going to be there later in the fall. I've already booked Guido. And I've eaten at Cesare a number of times with success, and Gardin de Felicin which I thought was mediocre. So out of your list aside from those three, what would be your top choice? A deep wine list is of importance as the people I am traveling with are in it as much for the wine as they are for the truffles. Possibly even more.

[robert brown]

Peter, Steve and I both agree that Il Giardino da Felacin is not worth the bother. Although they have a good and deep cellar, there is a hustle factor that turned off me and a reporter from the Financial Times. The food is okay, but the treatment sours it. Trattoria de la Posto is a nice place. We had a very good meal and a so-so one a year apart (2000-2001). La Contea has gone upscale. I would not have recognized from the early 1980s to two years ago. The place has a nice boutique. However, the food is only mezzo-mezzo. Cesare has given me memorable to somewhat less meals, but if you have never been, it’s a must. If they have porcini with peaches, try them. I think it has become a house specialty. Make sure you get a side dish if you order something roasted. They don’t always provide one. Il Viccolo in Alba served us a no-choice lunch a few years ago that was very good, La Belvedere in La Morra is a lively place, kind of big. We were served family style with a few choices of each course offered verbally. We liked it a lot. It’s down-to-earth. Steve and I are off Gener Neuv, although the triffolata of white truffle can be great if the truffles are really good.

Don’t get roped in to eating a meal at your hotel. Johnny, the Swiss owner, is not a very good cook. Are you going to be near Cuneo? There are a couple of good places around there. I highly recommend Il Bologna in Rocchetta Tanaro, east of Asti. Giacomo Bologna’s brother owns it. Again the choice is limited; a few choices offered verbally, but the food is delicious and Sig. Bologna is a lively character. Lots of “bonhomie” and good wine from “Braida”. Go for lunch, then Giacomo’s brother will lead you to “Braida” where the Late Giacomo’s son will give you an interesting tour of this large, modern wine-making facility. Then you can buy some Bricco dell’Uccellonne and Ai Sumi.

I will poke through my books and see if I forgot anything. Sounds like a great trip which I will be anxious to hear about as there are a few places you are going to that I have yet to visit.

[Peter Rodgers]

I had a lunch at Trattoria della Posta in January that could be among my most memorable in the region. I had the tasting menu and every dish was superb. Among other things, the taliarin were best of breed and they make an extraordinary Panna Cotta. Disappointed to hear the collective reports on da Felicin. We had a wonderful lunch at Il Centro last fall and I would rate it a must for anyone's forthcoming itinerary. I'm drawing a blank, but what about the place in Barolo that has a Michelin star? Finally, it is worth sharing the odd experience we've had a La Ciau del Tornatvento. First a terrific, simple lunch two years ago, then a dinner that ranks with some of the best we've had in Italy (a risotto that was better than Al Sorriso's version, which says a great deal), but when we went back last fall with friends, we felt like ugly Americans -- they were downright rude and offered only the most limited and pedestrian menu -- courtesy I suppose of the rush during truffle season.

[robert brown]

Peter, now I remember that a fellow who runs several agricultural propoerties for an insurance company in Turin told me that Da Dirce in Asti is also part of the kitchen at the San Maurizio. Borgo Antico is the one-star in Barolo. It was closed the two times I tried to eat there. Pinocchio in Borgomanero still held up for us this past April, although the cuisine has a few modern touches to it. We went a long time ago to Al Sorriso and were disappointed. How did you find it? Where do you post from?

[Peter Rodgers]

We first dined at Sorriso some ten years ago and went back several time, but not since it earned its third Michelin star. We are returning on our trip late this month, hoping that the third star has not spoiled them. In the past, we found the food consistently good and the service very attentive.

We live in Annapolis, Maryland and have a second home in Vancouver. Despite contending with jobs that keep us tied to our desks more often than we would like, we usually manage to spend ten days or so in France and Italy each year.