TN: Brun, Baumard, Pichler, Muller

[Florida Jim]

Pasta with grilled eggplant, cooked tomatoes and feta:

2002 Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV:

Although showing young, this already tastes more of pinot than gamay; plenty of black fruit, some poop and spice on the nose; similar in the mouth with a satin delivery and plenty of cut; medium length, well-balanced finish. Very pretty wine with a long life ahead of it. 11% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $12, on release; I’d buy it again.

Good with the dish; complimented the cheese and pasta substance and did well against the tomato acidity. A good match.

A ragout of white beans, spinach, garlic and onions with sausage:

2002 Baumard, Savennières: and 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Reserve M:

I’m not certain what’s going on here but the riesling came on like a dessert wine, all honeyed, cloyingly sweet and not especially well structured. Put in the fridge overnight, it displayed more cut and crisp but remained pretty sweet. This is not anything like it showed over the last several years when it was round but full of verve and had a substantial acid backbone. I suppose this showing may be some variation on the wine ‘closing down’ but most times when a wine shuts down, I get a lot more of the structure and less of the fruit and texture. An odd showing to be sure. 13% alcohol, imported by Vin Davino and about $55 wholesale on release; I’d not buy it again.

Abysmal with the dish.

The Baumard was bright and cheery with chenin aromas and a freshness that reminds me of a barrel sample. Medium weight, clean, more open than expected, not especially deep but delightful to taste. 13% alcohol, imported by Ex Cellars and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again.

Good with the dish as it stood up to the strong flavors of the sausage and spinach and cut the richness of the beans, without losing its own identity. Obviously, the better choice.

Broccoli/shrimp stir-fry on rice noodles with peanut/ginger/chili oil sauce:

2001 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger: A delicate pretty wine but a bit thin, even by itself. Easy to drink. 8% alcohol, imported by Wildman, AP# 142-3-02 and about $25 on release; I’d not buy it again.

Lost with the dish; it was wet and slightly sweet but almost flavorless alongside the meal.

I grabbed the last of the F.X. Pichler mentioned above and it was much better and had shed some of its sweetness here on day three. At least it had enough concentration and intensity to stay with the food and what sweetness was left was good counter-point to the heat of the chili oil.

Best, Jim