Zuberoa

[IanT]

I stopped off in San Seb for three days this summer as part of a whistlestop (literally, most of it was done on the train) tour around Europe, Russia and China. I had originally decided to focus on pintxos only on this visit (as I was keen to do a lot of surfing) but my inner glutton, envy of a friend's summer long gorgefest (I had just spent a few days in Troisgros and Lyons with him before he moved on to Bras, The French Laundry and Manresa...) and the propsect of two weeks eating Russian train food led me to book one of the multi-starred places on short notice. I ate at Mugaritz last year so was keen to try Arzak but alas I couldn't get a table (admittedly at 2 days notice). I remembered the very good write-ups Zuberoa had got on the internet, gave them a call and they agreed to squeeze me in on a late Saturday night table.

Oiartzun is a tiny, fairly unremarkable, village 15 minutes drive from San Seb. Though I did partake of some rather nice cider in a sideria called Aduriz (nitro cider was in short supply so I'm guessing its not Andoni's side of the family...) Huge barrels of 6 different sharp, tangy ciders. Grab a glass and just help yourself. I spent an enjoyable half hour there and they wouldn't take any money off me. Nice guys.

The main dining room is in a quite rustic, converted farmhouse with stone walls and exposed beams. there's also a beautiful terrace to the side of the hosue, wonderful on a summer's evening. Atmosphere and general service are more relaxed than you would normally find at the 2* level. For instance, there doesn't appear to be a sommelier as such and the staff (well those that could understand me anyway) were very keen on stopping to chat.

To add to the lack of somellier, they have very few wines available by the glass (a major pain for a solo diner) but I got by with a glass of fino, a bottle of Belondrade y Lurton (which worked with most of the courses - and a third of which I sent to the kitchen) and a glass of red I've forgotten.

Front of house were extremely friendly, its very much a family affair with the chef's brother running the show. His English was limited (though better than my Catalan) but once I told him that I had eaten at Toisgros earlier in the week he decided to choose my food and they ended up comping me the sherry, the glass of red, coffee and petit fours. I wasn't going to object...

Foie gras with Pedro Ximenez and truffle

Superb amuse. Very little truffle flavour (a real gripe of mine, summer truffle must be the most worthless ingredient in the world) but the lucious foie and PX combined into a very luxurious, mouth-filling flavour. Great start.

Marinated tuna blini, green apple jelly and juniper ice cream

They couldn't quite maintain it here. Good quality tuna and the apple worked well but the ice cream jarred for me and the coldness stopped me appreciating the tuna.

Crispy Nowegian lobster with orange and pumpkin sauce

Another poor dish, the sauce overpowered whatever flavour the lobster might have had (which had been cooked tempura style).

Curried seafood vichysoisse with a gelatious stock of its own juices

Things got back on track here. Clever techniques with a two layer soup which stayed separate until on your tongue. Very bright, clear flavours.

Roast pork belly, with lentils and soy sauce

The best pork belly I've tasted. Cooked sous vide and finished on the plancha, the fat just evaporated the second it hit my mouth coating my palate in porky fat. Very, very good.

Poached egg, pheasant cream, mushrooms and truffles

Every starred restaurant in Spain seems to need to do a slow cooked egg and this was a well executed version with present and correct custardy yolk. The pheasant cream and ceps were very good on their own but might have been a touch strong for the egg.

Fillet of red mullet, fennell flavoured squid and summer baked beans

Bit of a dip again here, just a bit of a boring dish and, outside of cassoulet, I'm not a great bean lover.

Loin of lamb with green salad and smashed potatoes

Ultra simple, almost gastronomically minimalist dish. Just a few, extremely rare, sices of a teeny tiny lamb. A sweep of Robuchon style puree and a few dressed leaves. Exceptionally tender meat, complimented by a few spoonfuls of the kind of gravy you wished your Mum used to make.

Jellied Marc of herbs, cream cheese and orange ice cream

Cocoa and Amaretto crispy with bittersweet citrus fruits

Desserts didn't maintain the high levels set by the meat courses. Disappointing.

The general view, and one I'd go along with, is that Zuberoa's strength is meat. Most of the fish dishes disappointed and the desserts were a bit perfunctory. Although many of the dishes sound (and look) quite traditional, it is interesting to note that sous vide, pacojets etc. are widely used in the kitchen. I had a good chat with chef Arbelaitz after dinner (through a translator) and he has certainly been very influenced by the modern Spanish movement but, rather than using the modern techniques to to create a new cuisine (a la Adria and Aduriz), he has sought to use them to improve on the existing cuisine. An interesting chat and a nice finish to a very enjoyable night.

[Rogelio]

Thanks Ian, great report.

I tend to think that Hilario's cooking is better in autumn and winter during the game season. He's also a master of sauces. And not as good with modern influenced dishes.

[IanT]

I had heard of his reputation as a saucier, don't think that came through on this occassion - the sauce with the lamb apart. And the orange/pumpkin sauce with the lobster was the low point in the meal.

[Culinista]

His English was limited (though better than my Catalan)

You might have fared better if you tried Castilian Spanish or even Basque, not Catalan

I think Zuberoa is a prime example of a good restaurant ruining itself with ill-conceived "modern" dishes, second only to Akelare in that department. According to the Michelin trends in Spain, they should be not long for the third star then.

[Txacoli]

Jeez, Culinista....that hurts!

Akelarré as over reaching....

Now I must re-consider our tears at brunch this winter....service, food, hospitality, view, even politics...brought us to our knees.

The Zubie Brothers, though. Our most recent meal, after Rafa, Inopia, Arzak, Akelarré, Cuchara San Telmo, Andra Mari....was kind of a clunker. The serving staff, trembling in fear....or whatever makes them so defensive.....is probably terminally off-putting for me.

After all the culinary fireworks of our previous meals I was in high dudgeon, and did not enjoy my meal.....especially as I knew I was torpedoing what remained of my credit worthiness with MasterCard. The dishes seemed dark, brooding....ominous. I was grumpy when we left.

Both Brothers Zubie met us in the bar. The wrung their hands in concern....the terrified, quailing staff had somehow transmitted our lack of joy at our meal. The Brothers, however, remembered us. They remembered my previous meals there.... remembered my son's meals there. They remembered my son's guest at his last meal there....and knew about his new posting in Australia. They were concerned about our appreciation of our meal.

I felt like crap.

Pity is not a great emotion to recommend a restaurant. Maybe humility is a better one. I mean, Andoni Aduriz started out here at Zuberoa as a commis. The Mugaritz kids live around the corner and the Zubie's take care of them, along with the Arzak kids from town......The Zubie's are here for the long haul.

Upon nine month's reflection....the day at Zuberoa was one of our favorites: an extended, dangerous tour of the snow buried mountains beyond the restaurant. Overhead views of the Grand Rhune. Frozen sheep. Blinding white glorious light with views over an entire kingdom. Lunch in a worried dining room where the hosts wrung their hands at the thought that my meal was not up to scratch.

The Zubies were cute. There food was bang on, for what they were doing. They were concerned. They remember all their people....even obscure California visiting chefs. They continue to do what they do, with all the same consummate skills they have always had.

Perhaps, as a fifty-something professional chef, I identify with the Zubies.

I just know that we are going back this winter. And I am going to sit my judgemental self outside in the snow....and enjoy their place and what they do.

I just wish the waitresses would giggle once in a while....