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Monster Cabernets


SiseFromm

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They were close in style.

I actually thought the Bond would end up being highly extracted, dense, inky in color (that was true enough), and sweet on the entry. It turned out to be surprisingly restrained and very much in the style of a Grand Cru Bordeaux. It had nice acidity and balance and did not taste high in alcohol. The flavors and aromas were less of fruit and more about leather and spice and wood and fine pipe tobacco. All in all, we were very surprised by this one.

The 1989 Malescot had the benefit of a bit of age and was holding beautifully. This one can go for another 15 years without breaking a sweat. Far rustier in color with scotchy edges, the nose was more vegetal and delicate than the Bond. This one was pure and clearly from France. The black cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors lingered on and on and on and on. This was one that was sipped, then contemplated. The table went silent for awhile after we would taste it.

In a blind test I would have had a bit of troubles. I would have been able to peg the youth of the Bond and the aged beauty of the Malescot, but I would have guessed both were from France. The Malescot was a gift and the Bond we stumbled into on auction. Both were as good as expected and we were lucky to have both in one sitting.

R. Jason Coulston

jason@popcling.com

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Don't you find that it's best not to have competing wines with one meal? I like to have one wine that is far from the next..this way ...think of this ..you have two beautiful women and both are very hot to enjoy them at the same time would be nice ...but they would naturally compete with each other.... this I find with wine.. and yes I have seen this competition..

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I find it's a lovely and rare opportunity to sip side by side and to really compare two spectacular wines. If the serious question is whether or not I would want to enjoy to beautiful women at the same time . . . umm . . . yes. Every time.

R. Jason Coulston

jason@popcling.com

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It is difficult to analytically compare two wines that are so different. The Malescot is not really a "cabernet" being a blend with a healthy dose of merlot. Also comparing an older wine to a much younger wine is a dicy proposition at best.

However for pure drinking pleasure--this sounds like a really fun evening!

Interestingly, you note that the Bond (tasted blind) could have been French. It would be fun to compare it to an equally young Bordeaux (with a higher cabernet presence in the blend).

Unfortunately, these so called California "cult" wines are often lumped into a stereotypical profile/category with the intent to slight them. In fact, they can be complex, nuanced, earthy and balanced. (just like fine Bordeaux).

by the way, the beef looks absolutely magnificent!

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Now that you mention it, the merlot component was clear in the Margaux while the Bond was 100% single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bond was more structured with a very slightly thorny component. As far as parings went, the Bond stood up better to the chewy & fatty tri-tip. The Bordeaux had a rounder feel in the mouth and was more subtle. I saved it until after the main course as something to contemplate and reflect on while the meal was closing but before I composed the dessert course.

R. Jason Coulston

jason@popcling.com

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While we're on the subject, I thought I'd throw this one in as well:

gallery_12732_1_78286.jpg

1975 Francis Dorroze Armagnac which spent 24 years in oak. My wife and I have been building a deep love for Armagnac over the last year or so.

R. Jason Coulston

jason@popcling.com

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