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Felice

Restaurant, Food and Chef News

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An interesting article by Mathilde Visseyrias in today's Figaro discussed the "disappearance" of small epiceries, butchers and hardware stores. Here are just the facts M'am:

The first supermarket appeared in 1957

The first hypermarche in 1963

Now there are 10,000 grandes surfaces

From 1966-1998:

The number of epiceries reduced to 1/6th

The number of butchers 1/3rd

In 2006-7 the number of charcuteries reduced by 5.5%.


John Talbott

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The weekend the FT’s wine expert, Jancis Robinson, wrote an article about another American in Paris, this Jaime Araujo, who is “telling the French what to do” regarding marketing, branding, etc. of French small family wines. I thought the article was worth passing on to you.


John Talbott

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Web Radio du Gout had a piece on what country’s citizens consume fast food: not surprisingly, of those surveyed, the Anglo-Saxon countries (US & UK) came out on top (or bottom as it may be) and France was the most resistant nation. They also noted that Jacques Le Divellac and Father Alain Moraindais have published a book with the catchy title of “Eating with Jesus, Moses and Mohammed,” Solar editions, 22 €. And this news: Michelin will start publishing a gastronomic magazine, available in kiosks {? How often?} Also, Anne-Sophie Pic, 3-stars already, was awarded a “Golden Woman” award. And finally, there’s an inquiry afoot to see if Beaujolais producers have been over-sugaring their wines.


John Talbott

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L’Internaute suggests 20 restaurants to try in 2008 that include one by Gordon Ramsey in the Trianon Palace, Dutournier in Marly and an offshoot of l’Os a Moelle in Chatillon.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut reviewed several business lunch places that have changed their skin: Le Dali presenting the mix of dishes mentioned in the Digest for 60 euros in 1 hour, the Astor, a 38 euro 45-minute formula, the Bar W, moved to the 8th floor during work, serving a 1-hour 40 euro meal, Market, a 7-8 PM 45 euro formula and Mori Venice Bar, 55 euros, perhaps served in an hour.


John Talbott

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New Kitchen Store

13 à Table, a kitchen concept store with three floors dedicated entirely to cooking has just opened on rue de Rivioli. You'll find everything for the kitchen from kitchen supplies to cook books. There's even a space dedicated to cooking classes run by Martial Enguehard, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, 1991.

13 à Table

34 rue de Rivoli,

Paris 4th.

Open Monday-Saturday 10h-19h


www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com

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Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot, in an article published Jan 12th but only seen by me today listed 12 coups for 2008.

1. The return of G. Arabian.

2. Decorators remaking places - le Meurice, Jules Verne + Pre Catalan.

3. Pierre Gagnaire and Enrico Bernardo open restos in Courchevel.

4. Didier Elena redoes the stables of the chateau.

5. Herme opens a third boutique and Philippe Conticini a "micro-boutique."

6. Chefs are picking up the trend to use yuzu.

7. Gordon Ramsay will take over Les Trois Marches soon.

8. Fauchon will finally open its new resto.

9. Michel & Marie-Pierre Troisgros will open their ecological inn in the Brionnais.

10. Marc Veyrat is recovering from his bad ski injury and will add a new address in Manigold and a new fast-food concept in Paris.

11. The Omnivore food festival will be held in Deauville 11-12 Feb.

12. The ever-expanding Costes empire now covers l'Arbucci, Chez Julian, Bar Rouge and soon others.


John Talbott

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Some news from this week's Figaroscope not heretofor reported:

1. Bagels New York style are now available at Bagel Tom, 2, rue Volta in the 3rd, 06.70.77.42.62, closed Sundays but open other days 10 AM - 10 PM.

2. Philippe Conticini has opened a microboutique called Exceptions Gourmandes, 4 place su Marche-Sainte-Catherine in the 4th with macaroons, mini-kouign-amman, etc.


John Talbott

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I just noticed that it's been a month since anyone has posted here; that's reflective of the mood now in Paris. Two writer-friends who wound up eating at the same disappointing resto last week (one heart by Rubin) with every other real food critic in Paris said it was a indicator of how dead things were.

But in March things will pick up. (1) Gordon Ramsay is opening his Versailles place in the Les Trois Marches space, (2) Dutournier will be in Marly, and (3) Benoit Bordier, ex-Chez Jean in the 9th, not, the RFC reminds me, the Basquaise l'Ami Jean in the 7th, will be cooking at Les Etangs de Corot, the Relais & Chateau in the Ville d’Avray, between here and Versailles. Beautiful website eh?


John Talbott

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I havn't been yet, but there's a tiny place that openend a couple of weeks ago in the 4th, near Saint Paul: it's called les Côtelettes, 4 impasse Guéménée (01 42 72 08 45). I think they're close to the people who used to run Ramulaud, in the 11th. That'd mean great wine and good bistrot fare. I'll report ASAP.


"Mais moi non plus, j'ai pas faim! En v'là, une excuse!..."

(Jean-Pierre Marielle)

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Courtesy of Felice/Phyllis, last week's A Nous Paris indicated that Giuseppe NLN, expizzaman of the Cantina Clandestina had opened a modern pizzeria in plain Boboland (Abbesses) called Pomodoro, costing 20 E (but advises readers not to stray from the pizzas).


John Talbott

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A new wine bar Le Living Room, 5, rue Crillon in the 4th was reported by l’Internaute to have opened and looks very swank.

In addition, they announced a nifty exchange - Jean-François Piège, from Les Ambassadeurs will cook at Chateaubriand March 12th and Inaki Aizpitarte will cook at the Crillon March 18th.


John Talbott

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Some chef news from today's "Quoi de neuf" in Figaroscope: Christian Le Squer of Ledoyen and team are opening a contemporary brasserie at l'Instant Epicure, 5, rue La Perouse in the 16th; the Transversal gang will open a branch at 10, bd de la Bastille in the 12th in the Maison Rouge gallery/museum; and Japanese nouvelle cuisine chef Eiichi Edakuni will open a place at 8, rue Garreau in the 18th (in Montmartre no less) with only 20 covers.


John Talbott

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Three pieces of news from this AM's Figaroscope:

Restaurant Jean in the 9th has now an ex-Gagnaire chef and American patissiere.

The Carette in the 16th has reopened.

There will be a restaurant ephemere at the foot of the Musee d'Orsay from Saturday March 29th to Tuesday April 1st cooking fish and crustaceans under the guidance of David Van Laer, exMaxence.

Edited to fix verb regarding Jean.


Edited by John Talbott (log)

John Talbott

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Today, in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about a promotion of regional food at reasonable prices by members of the “Chateau Hotel” group where 100 chefs are going to serve lunch menus during the week for 28 Euros until April 30th. In Paris this includes Rech, Aux Lyonnais + Benoit, eg the Ducasse places.


John Talbott

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It's called l'Agapé, it's brand new and it's in the 17th, 51, rue Jouffroy d'Abbans. (It used to be the Baptiste.) Three menus: 39, 77 and 110 €. Oh, by the way: three ex-Arpège boys are in charge, including Laurent, the former maitre d'. I'll report ASAP.


"Mais moi non plus, j'ai pas faim! En v'là, une excuse!..."

(Jean-Pierre Marielle)

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It's called l'Agapé, it's brand new and it's in the 17th, 51, rue Jouffroy d'Abbans. (It used to be the Baptiste.) Three menus: 39, 77 and 110 €. Oh, by the way: three ex-Arpège boys are in charge, including Laurent, the former maitre d'. I'll report ASAP.

Wow, thanks Zouave, this is great info!


www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com

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It's called l'Agapé, it's brand new and it's in the 17th, 51, rue Jouffroy d'Abbans. (It used to be the Baptiste.) Three menus: 39, 77 and 110 €. Oh, by the way: three ex-Arpège boys are in charge, including Laurent, the former maitre d'. I'll report ASAP.

Wow, thanks Zouave, this is great info!

Yah well, I went by today en route to Le Clocher Pereire and the 39 menu has no choices but veggies and a plat de jour; the 77 has some choices and the a la carte has entrees starting about 22 E. Not for my budget esp in that part of town.


John Talbott

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Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne mentioned the opening in mid-April of three places: Guilo Guilo, 8, rue Garreau in the 18th, 01.42.54.23.92, already noted here, where famed Kyoto chef Eiichi Edakuni will cook; Territoires, 5, rue de Pontoise in the 5th, a new resto of Sylvain Sendra’s, ex-Temps au Temps, a chef "who never runs out of ideas" and l’Epicure Traditionnelle Cuisine, 2, rue La Pérouse in the 16th, 01.49.52.10.10, a restaurant supervised by Christian Le Squer, Ledoyen, who trained the team with a chef exLa Marée.


John Talbott

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Jim Bowie (I kid thee not) announced in Le Fooding that the Transversal gang's going to revive theCafé de la Maison Rouge and le China Club + Julien have reopned.

.


John Talbott

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I went by Patrick Goldenberg's, Ave Wagram in the 17th today; big sign, soon to be another Bar a Huitres

Well it is and Rubin et al gave it one heart Wednesday.

John Talbott

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Today's Figaro had a front page summary of an article by F. Simon announcing that the Opera Garnier concession will be taken over in July 2009 by Nicolas le Bec who runs the two-star resto of the same name in Lyon.

In addition Figaro announced the Restaurant magazine best chef awards for this year:

After Ferran Adria came the French chefs/restos as follows:

3. Pierre Gagnaire

7. Michel Bras

11. l'Astrance

14. l'Atelier de J.R.

15. Louis XV.

Edited by John Talbott 4/23 to reflect correct number of stars for Nicolas le Bec which is two not three (Thanks to Cathy Ho).


Edited by John Talbott (log)

John Talbott

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This week, Lesrestos.com announced that Yohann Parran, who only took over Beauvilliers in Montmartre three years ago, is himself turning the place over to Antoine Heerah of the nearby Moulin de la Galette, ex-Chamarre {too} who will renovate and reopen it this summer.


John Talbott

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Today, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne sings about the pretty restos of May and announced that Alice Bardet was “directing” another restaurant - in addition to the Point Bar – called Le Boudoir, 28, rue du Colisée in the 8th and that Christian Etchebest, chef of Le Troquet in the 15th, would open La Cantine at 103, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th; both at the end of May.


Edited by John Talbott (log)

John Talbott

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Today, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne sings about the pretty restos of May and announced that Alice Bardet was “directing” another restaurant - in addition to the Point Bar – called Le Boudoir, 28, rue du Colisée in the 8th and that Christian Etchebest, chef of Le Troquet in the 15th, would open La Cantine at 103, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th; both at the end of May.

Don't hold your breath; both are still in renovation according to the folks I called; mid-June maybe.

John Talbott

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