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Felice

Restaurant, Food and Chef News

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Radio France du Gout News:

Anne-Sophie Pic was named chef of the year by the vote of 8,000 chefs conducted by the magazine Le Chef, thereby joining Thierry Marx (2006), Olivier Roellinger (2005), Michel Trama (2004), Alain Ducasse (2000) and Joël Robuchon (1986), and Nicolas Mouton of the Chateau d'Ermenonville in Ermenonville was named most promising chef of the year.


John Talbott

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Wine things opening in September include: Il Vino, 13 bd de La Tour Maubourg in the 7th by the Best sommelier in the World 2007 - Enrico Bernardo,....

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra.


John Talbott

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Wine things opening in September include: Il Vino, 13 bd de La Tour Maubourg in the 7th by the Best sommelier in the World 2007 - Enrico Bernardo,....

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra.

John is this the old Chamarré location?

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Wine things opening in September include: Il Vino, 13 bd de La Tour Maubourg in the 7th by the Best sommelier in the World 2007 - Enrico Bernardo,....

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra.

John is this the old Chamarré location?

Yes, and where they went
Well, it's now on the web in several places and also, Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribault reviewed two places in Paris open in August: one of which is the Le Moulin de la Galette, coordinates well-known, taken over by Jérôme Bodereau and Antoine Heerah, exChamaree, serving market produce, pumpkin soup, Jerusalem artichoke, crunchy milk-fed-pork and “amusing” desserts with a 17 € menu at lunch and 25 € at dinner, à la carte count on 45 €, open everyday including in August.
was not especially beloved by my companion et moi.
2.3 The old Le Chamarré gang, up to their old tricks again.

Le Moulin de la Galette, 83, rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.46.84.77, {supposedly} open 7/7, had a lunch formula (2 courses) for 17 and lunch menu (3) for 25, one at dinner at 42 and a degustation one for 60, a la carte running 51-75 €. Let’s start with the disclaimer; (1) I’ve had incredibly uneven experiences with what comes out of the kitchens of French chef Jérôme Bodereau and Mauritian chef Antoine Heerah; (2) Jean-Claude Ribault in August warned that in their new venue the food was both clever and a bit coarse/cheap; and finally (3) that I’ve had uneven experiences at this site for 20 years, no matter whose hand or what food (Italian, French, Mauritian) was put in front of me. That said, I think I and my sophisticated eating pal went with an open mind. The carte was out of reach of both our budgets so we looked hard at the “menu,” each taking one of the two entrees, mains & desserts. The good news: the desserts were fabulous (a parfait glacé with Grand Marnier and a chocolate Opera with sorbet – first class). The mains were blah and made with “cheap” products – a tasteless pink trout with a ‘hollandaise sauce” made with gelatin and awful Basmati rice and an annoying fricassee of turkey bits with chestnuts. But with the firsts we grasped the problem: her two brochettes of raw shrimp (one with a fluffy tumeric sauce) were wonderful, but my soup of coco beans was again chintzy and blah – so here, it’s either heaven or hell, there’s no purgatory. Bill 81 € for two.

Go? Not until they decide which way to go in Dante’s Inferno


John Talbott

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The Bricolo Cafe at BHV is no more. I dropped in for a cafe after buying some dishwasher cleaner and found it gone. Good news tho, the Cafe de la Ligne wedged between BHV, the parking and metro on the basement floor is now run by a most pleasant Asian couple and served an excellent cafe serre for 1 Euro.


John Talbott

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It's a bit late, but my schedule is really off today; however, tonight at 23h10 France 3 is broadcasting a special on eating with politicians such as Roselyne Bachelot and Figaro's preview quotes several celebrities about the importance of food; the multilingual Nelson Monfort "I hate chocolate cake and Buches de Noel" as well as Stephane Bern (in character) glowing about his lunch with Grace Kelly.

Report: I doubt that the program will be accessable on the France 3 site, which is probably to the good since it was not terribly interesting. Some points made/observed were that:

1. Édouard Balladur eats chicken with his fingers.

2. Alain Juppe has one hellovalotta wine glasses in front of him when eating.

3. Politicians soak up the sauce with their bread despite the info from my friend the Cultural attache in the French Foreign Service.

4. Ortalans still exist and are eaten.

5. Roselyne Bachelot thinks tete de veau (which they showed being made with M. Chirac observing) is a veritable nightmare.

6. Jacques Chirac did indeed say "Eat apples."

7. Politicians really eat and drink extremely well.

8. Politicians get to eat in really neat places (eg the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles).

9. Politicians get to eat with interesting people (eg the young Frank Sinatra + Diana).

Edited by John Talbott Sept 30 to add report.


Edited by John Talbott (log)

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News from Figaroscope:

Gordon Ramsey will be cooking at the Trianon Palace in Versailles {? when, ? for how long, ? how involved?}

The 66 team will open a resto-bar-club on the ground floor of the Palais des Congres in the 17th by the end of the year.

The Mme Shawn folk will be opening two new Thai places in the 3rd and 16th.

La table de la Salle Pleyel 8th, will host different invited chefs for the next year; the first Sonia Ezgulian of Lyon.

Benoit Cohen will open his 4th trattoria in the place Dauphine in the 1st where Il Defino is now; adding to his empire of Les Cailloux, Lei + l'Altro

Thierry Faucher a member of the new generation of bistrotieres who runs l'Os a Moelle + Les Symples de l'Os a Moelle will open a table d'hote in Chatillon-sur-Seine at the end of the year.

The Cinq Mars bunch will open a new place on the quai des Orfevres (1st) not far from #36 {the police headquarters featured in the 2004 film with Daniel Auteuil and Gérard Depardieu.}

Thierry Costes will reprise l'Arbuci in the 6th.

The Cap Vernet {just refurbished a while back} will close its doors; it's been sold and the new owners will open an Italian place there.

As announced here, the first Georgian resto will open in the 6th imminently.

Also as announced here before Joel Robuchon will open a cave next door to his Atelier in the 7th in October.

Le China Club is closing.

Gilles Choukroun will become "advisor" at yet another place - le Buddha Bar in the 8th.


John Talbott

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Wine things opening in September include: Il Vino, 13 bd de La Tour Maubourg in the 7th by the Best sommelier in the World 2007 - Enrico Bernardo,....

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra.

I don't know why I keep thinking this is the event of the month, fall, or year, but I dropped by again today after a very nice lunch at the back-to-normal Bon Acceuil. The carte was now in the window. The 50 E menu has three wines, an Austrian (I presume white) with the entree (unspecified), a Cotes de Rhone with the main (ditto) and a Muscato with the dessert (same). The 100 E menu has five wines and adds a cheese course and something else (I forget, sorry); and the 1000 E one has a staggering number and quality - including a Petrus and Chat. d'Yquem. So I'm going to let the big boys or one of you hedge-fund beneficiaries try it first before I take my honey.

John Talbott

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Today's Figaro had an article that said that cantines and indeed, all the restaurant sector, would be raising their prices from 8.5-10% til the end of 2007 due to rising prices of grains, milk and meat.

Edited the next day by John Talbott to add that the Organization of producers of milk say that 10-17% is an exaggeration and it will be more like a 1.4% increase) according to Metro.


Edited by John Talbott (log)

John Talbott

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Metro reported today that the Gault/Millau 2008 appearing November 1st, has named Jean-Luc Rabanel of l'Atelier de.... Chef of the Year. Plus Web Radio du Gout said the same G/M has allowed only one chef/resto, Marc Veyrat to keep his 20/20 rating. They also say that Alain Ducasse will be publishing his new book Le Grand Livre de Cuisine - Tour du Monde himself at the end of November, covering 500 recipes from his group in 1100 pages costing 215 €. Also, October 10th, Champérard 2008 appeared and promoted Gérald Passédat of Le Petit Nice to its highest grade.


John Talbott

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I went by Patrick Goldenberg's, Ave Wagram in the 17th today; big sign, soon to be another Bar a Huitres. As I recall, I reported elsewhere that Jo Goldenberg's in the 4th was to be remade by the Costes.


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Thursday, Alain Ducasse announced that the Relais & Chateaux’s 170 restaurants would offer a 28 Euro menu featuring traditional French food (“Puy green lentils to the Drome's truffles and apricots, Basque piperade or Breton crab") in March and April.


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Expatica/AFP announced last Thursday that the Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower will reopen in December and as noted before it will be under the purview of Alain Ducasse and Co.

Meanwhile Web Radio du Gout noted that while some clementines are sweet and others are acidic, Corsican ones are both.


John Talbott

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Today we walked by the former location of Velly , 52 rue Lamartine and now there is a place called Villa Victoria where Velly used to be. Does anyone have the skinny?


Edited by Laidback (log)

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November's Paris Notes indicates that the Tour d'Argent is open again with a 70 E menu.

Also Web Radio du Gout says that l'Etoile de Montmartre, the classic brasserie in the 18th where numerous films have been shot, will reopen Nov. 15th under the helm of a young couple. And a new wine has been born (or at least named) - Vin de Pays de Méditerranée. In addition, a mention by Robert Parker of a wine elevates its price by at least 3 E a bottle. Also a new chocolate bar {that doesn't quite sound correct when translated) opens at the Stade de France under the direction of Pierre Hermé. They also reveal that Francois Simon's blog reveals that 31 October, the courts ruled that Alexandre Cammas of Le Fooding must pay the Fleury Michon company (that makes surimi) 5000 E for misappropriating the name which is/was apparently used for a line of products Joel Robuchon designed. {Did I get that right?}


John Talbott

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November 4th, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote about the C & D Assurance company, which will insure one against the loss of a Michelin star; providing a « coach » (Vlad-Paul Stupurak, a Michelin inspector from 2003-2007), who will drop by once a month to advise you on how to keep the star(s).

Web Radio etc in French and Vinimarket in English note that the (US) Trade and Tax Bureau has approved Vins de Pays des Vignobles de France; specifically two denominations “vin de pays des Gaules” and “ vin de pays de l’Atlantique.”

Eat in Paris announced that after the successful Marée de Passy, Jean Michel Bichard has started a new seafood and fish restaurant La Marée Denfert in the 14th at 83, avenue Denfert-Rochereau.


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Web Radio du Gout ...... also reveals that Francois Simon's blog reveals that 31 October, the courts ruled that Alexandre Cammas of Le Fooding must pay the Fleury Michon company (that makes surimi) 5000 E for misappropriating the name which is/was apparently used for a line of products Joel Robuchon designed.  {Did I get that right?}

Update: today's JDD and Le Fooding issued what can only be called a manifesto or Call To Action or Martin Lutheresque declamation calling for justice for Le Fooding, well, you can read it here.


John Talbott

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The weekend, FT had an article on Alain Ducasse’s new place in London, in which, in addition to revealing his affection for Chicken McNuggets with curry sauce and his recent marriage to Gwénaëlle Gueguen, he discusses his opening of a “’bar and boeuf’ restaurant in Monaco, which serves only sea bass and beef” and a “’boulangépiciers’ – a combination of bakery and grocery” in Paris.

Also, according to the Crest panel (NPD Group) Web Radio du Gout says that only 1 in 4 customers take wine with meals and then, more at dinner than at lunch.


John Talbott

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L’internaute.com announced the opening of a brasserie-bistrot (whatever that is) called La Véraison by Stéphane Bourgeot, exLouis Vins offering fusiony food at 64, rue de la Croix Nivert in the 15th.

Adrian Moore in his blog noted that the Copenhague is open again.

Au Petit Marguery after many years under the helm of the Cousin brothers, is now in the hands of Pascal Mousset, exChez Francoise, Apollo + Pasco with Herve Colin at the piano.


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Expatica reported that AFP reported the the Committee for Modernisation of the French Hotel Trade did a survey and found that "..........38 percent of restaurant clients complain of the chronic incompetence of staff, or of a disagreeable or impersonal welcome," ....


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January's Gourmet has a "Choptalk Highlight" from Alexander Lobrano explaining why Bordier butter is so popular now, largely because it's made the "old-fashioned" way.

Wednesday, Elaine Sciolino had an article in the NYT + IHT entitled "A Tempest in a Champagne Flute" about the extension of the champagne designation (already reported in the French press.)


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Wednesday, December 19th Figaroscope's "best of" suppliment had a list of 12 forthcoming events written by Emmanuel Rubin, the:

Jules Vernes reopened by Ducasse at the Eiffel Tower,

Trianon Palace reopening,

Ghislane Arabian opening a place in the Petites Sorcieres space, 12, rue Liancourt in the 14th,

Le Meurice has new Starck finery

Les Kekes, a new bistro opening on the quai des Orfevres,

Le Palace, in the 9th (rue du Faubourg Montmartre), closed for 10 years, reopening under an exGagnaire,

l'Arbuci, the mythic brasserie, rue de Buci in the 6th, reopening under Thierry Costes,

Le Restaurant Fauchon opening,

Soleil Levant, rue Durantin in the 18th, reopening under a "great Japanese chef,"

Oth Sombath, in the 8th, opening with an exBlue Elephant Thai chef,

Royal Monceau after a Starck lift, reopening two restos ( one French, one Italian),

and several murmurings - Yannick Alleno will consult on a new place in the Opera Garnier, Hisayuki Takeuchi will open a bar in the 8th, the Costes will redo the Apparat space and the Vincennes Zoo will open a panoramic restaurant at/on the big rock (If you've been there, you'll remember it).


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