Bierzo

[Florida Jim]

Bierzo is an area of northwestern Spain which grows the mencia grape; a grape that can, at its best, produce fragrant, fresh, crisply fruit wines with elegant tannin that drink well early. It can also age, especially when blended with garnacha tintorera (a/k/a alicante). Most vineyards are planted on alluvial soils between 1,600 and 2,000 feet along the river valleys and temperatures in summer approach 90 degrees F. The area grows other red and white varieties but mencia is my interest and I have been following its wines for several years now.

Other notable producers not mentioned below are Peique, Pérez Caramés, Prada a Topa, Vinos de Bierzo (co-op), Martínez Yebra and Pittacum.

Two recent wines from Bierzo:

2000 Bodegas Estefanía, Bierzo Tilenus Pagos de Posado:

Smells of grilled/smoked meat, warm herbs and poop – almost no fruit scents; tastes more of fruit and similar to a cabernet franc done in CA, texturally polished, decent length. Although still in evidence, much of the oak this showed on release has morphed but, unfortunately it still obscures the fruit on the nose and leaves the finish with a sweet and sour note. Old vines here but winemaking decisions all but eliminate the taster finding out what they can do. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $20 (marked down from $44); I’ll not buy more.

2004 Bodegas Martin Codax, Bierzo Cuatro Pasos:

Sort of Duboeuf does mencia with very forward red fruit on both the nose and palate but ultimately a simple, quaffing wine. Even so, Diane and I both liked this more than the Tilenus. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I’ll not buy more.

One would think that somewhere on the sliding scale between these two styles, this grape and this terroir would allow for a well made version of mencia; neither of these houses achieve that.

I’ve had a little better luck with the low-end bottlings from Domino de Tares; their higher priced bottlings being over-oaked. But my only reliable find from this region has been from Descendientes de J. Palacios; their pricey Corullíon is too woody for me but the inexpensive Bierzo is an appetizing, rustic, village wine.

I would hate to think that all the old vine fruit in this area is relegated to being aged in new barrique. But then, very few of the producers here have a long history in the region so perhaps their learning curve in the days to come will move them away from so much new wood.

Best, Jim

Edited March 24, 2007 by Florida Jim (log)