Sun Salutations

[Florida Jim]

It’s always good to spend a week on the left-coast. Old friends to see, new wines to taste and the beauty of rural Sonoma set against the bustle of Berkeley. All receptors open.

Along the way the chance to meet Juan Mercado at Realm Cellars, Josh Peoples at Chateau Boswell and a few other happy wine geeks on vacation.

And although we came to help plant a vineyard at Russell Bevan’s home, Mother Nature gave us the week off; too much rain the preceding week made planting impossible.

So, we drank:

First, Dry Stack Winery is a new operation where Russell is winemaker, Peter and Marie Young are growers and the wines are such that, for those who like the style, they will be the next big thing (and reasonably priced, too). Very concentrated, rich, big Rhone varietals, mostly syrah, are the forte of this operation in Bennett Valley. But they also make a beautiful, tropical flavored sauvignon blanc without any grassy or cat-pee notes that even I will be buying, and a great rosé of syrah that has real flavor and cut. Many of you are on mailing list burn-out, I know, but this is one to add.

I had a chance to taste through all the Realm Cellars 2004’s and their 2005 barrel samples and while these are not my style of wine, I think those that loved these in the past will be truly delighted with the coming versions.

We also tasted the 2006 pinot gris, 2006 rosé of gamay and the 2005 Bassetti Vineyard, syrah from Edmunds St. John. These are wines that are in my wheelhouse; the gris was light and floral but juicy; the syrah was deep, concentrated and very pure; and, the rosé is extraordinary to the point that J. P. Brun would be pleased. And for those keeping track, Steve’s back has finally gotten straightened out and he is his usual serene and carefree self.

Other wines that impressed:

2002 Aubert, Ritchie Vnyd. chardonnay: the weight and power is all CA but the nuances and focus is as Burgundian as they get. And not too much oak, either. Excellent stuff.

1999 Ogier, Côte-Rôtie: much more open then I expected and very true to its place.

1998 Ogier, Côte-Rôtie: more complex, still a bit tannic and touched with brett. But I sure enjoyed it.

I also had a number of California wines that, while one glass was enough, I was very pleased to find wines tending to emphasize their varietal and, occasionally, their terroir notes. Although I don’t think these wines were indicative of any style change for the area, I do think that some folks choose to buck the trend.

But, if I had to boil it all down to one wine it would be the 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, sauvignon blanc; Didier Dagueneau move over. At $20, this is stealing.

Best, Jim

[Rebel Rose]

I also had a number of California wines that, while one glass was enough, I was very pleased to find wines tending to emphasize their varietal and, occasionally, their terroir notes.

That's good to hear.

What is Russell planting? And how many vines? Was he disappointed that your planting project was delayed by the rain?

[Florida Jim]

I also had a number of California wines that, while one glass was enough, I was very pleased to find wines tending to emphasize their varietal and, occasionally, their terroir notes.

That's good to hear.

What is Russell planting? And how many vines? Was he disappointed that your planting project was delayed by the rain?

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Certainly disappointed but not put off; the planting should be going on today and tomorrow.

He is planting 1 3/4 acres to syrah with a total of about 3,000 vines. Cones 174 and 470.

That's pretty tight spacing in a vineyard of that size but it should work well with the aspect it has and with the days of sun it gets. And Russell, being the perfectionist that he is, will crop lower than most. The wines should be, to say the very least, extraordinarily concentrated.

Best, Jim

[ludja]

...

First, Dry Stack Winery is a new operation where Russell is winemaker, Peter and Marie Young are growers and the wines are such that, for those who like the style, they will be the next big thing (and reasonably priced, too). Very concentrated, rich, big Rhone varietals, mostly syrah, are the forte of this operation in Bennett Valley. But they also make a beautiful, tropical flavored sauvignon blanc without any grassy or cat-pee notes that even I will be buying, and a great rosé of syrah that has real flavor and cut. Many of you are on mailing list burn-out, I know, but this is one to add.

...

←

Thanks for the tip on the Dry Stack Wines, including the Sauvignon Blanc and the rose of Syrah.

I was curious where they grew the S.B. grapes; from their website it looks they come from Bennett Valley.

The key to Dry Stack's success with Syrah is Bennett Valley's climate. Although we are just west of Valley of the Moon and just east of the 101 Freeway we are as cool as the cooler micro climates of Russian River and Green Valley. We harvest our whites in late September and our Syrah in late October, usually just before the first storm of the season. This long growing season allows to get our fruit completely ripe without sugars soaring to the stratosphere.

I'm trying to remember what other vineyards/wineries are in this area since it may be a clue for some other good Sauvignon Blanc. Hmm, I was just thinking that Matanzas Creek might be close by and I've had good Sauvignon Blancs from them also. (I just checked and they are indeed in Bennett Valley.)

In any case, thanks for putting Dry Stack Vineyards on my radar.

[Florida Jim]

The sauvignon is grown at Dry Stack Vineyard and Matanzas Creek is very close.

Best, Jim