docsconz

Why is tripe bleached? If anyone feels this would be better discussed in another thread, but all means point us to that thread, but I really wonder about this. I never knew tripe was bleached. And I guess my next question is, how do they make sure to get the bleach all out completely before the tripe reaches diners? I find chlorine bleach really gross in any context. ← I think the simple answer is that the tripe itself is felt by some to look more appealing as a bleached white color. There may be other reasons as well, though the panelists clearly preferred the unbleached product.

One of my fondest memories of the Brooklyn Heights Promenade was getting take-out from Ferdinando's and having a beautiful spring picnic with my wife and some friends the month I graduated from Medical School. By the way, if you haven't yet, I suggest you try a pannelle special sandwich from Ferdinando's down near the BQE.

I've never had a PBR in my life - but I think I need to rectify that, or move. Are they still selling those chickens in the Grand Army Plaza greenmarket? If so, I know where I'll be going this weekend. You have to get a double chocolate eclair at Torres, and document the experience. You simply cannot taunt us by mentioning them and not eat one. ← Yes, they did have the chickens this past weekend. Go early if you want to get one. Tell Mike I said hello! Me too.

For those unable or unwilling to access the NY Times either now or in the future, the article states that AD will leave the Essex House closing on January 6th to open this spring at the St. Regis Hotel in the space forerly occupied by Lespinasse. Tony Esnault will remain chef. One connection between the two estaurants is Christian Delouvrier who was once chef at both Lespinasse and later at ADNY at The Essex House. Very interesting.

What time were you there? I stayed away from the cheese course, because I anticipated eating well again that night (which I did) and somehow missed the chamomile chocolate. Oh well, more reasons to return. ← Reservation was at noon, but we were there for quite a while (until Usher -- I believe -- showed up ). Ah, I see now that your reservation was at 2:15, so we most likely missed each other. ← Usher was still there when we got there and for a short while after. Sorry we missed you.

Marcus Samuelsson – Contemporary Pan-African Cuisine Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit and Riingo, known primarily for his deft manipulation of the cuisine of Scandinavia spoke about the flavors of Africa, which he considers to be one of the last relatively untapped trends and on which he recently published a book, The Soul of a New Cuisine – A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa He noted the confluence of culinary traditions already having taken place in that continent, including in the Republic of South Africa. The Cape Malay, black African and various European cultures have melded to produce a very unique and delicious cuisine. Having been over in South Africa at this very time last year, I can personally attest to the joys of that cuisine and the quality and uniqueness of some of the ingredients employed there-in. I wanted to talk with him about this very subject, but alas, he had to hurry from the kitchen in order to catch a plane. Of course his discussion was not limited to the south of Africa, as beguiling ingredients and dishes can be found throughout the continent. His demonstration was for a dish from his ancestral roots of Ethiopia. He explained the three basic building blocks of Ethiopian cuisine including injera - the bread served with each meal, nit’ir qibe- a base of rich spiced butter and berbere – a complex blend of spices. The dish he prepared was a stir-fried beef stew that incorporated a stream-lined version of berbere that he prepared.. Towards the end of his demonstration Chef Samuelsson was joined onstage by Peter Morales of wine importers, 57 Main Street for a discussion on pairing these foods with wines. The wines of South Africa are particularly notable and make great matches with this food. The varietal, Pinotage, was specifically mentioned as a previously much maligned one that has come a long way and is great for pairing with elements of this cuisine.

What time were you there? I stayed away from the cheese course, because I anticipated eating well again that night (which I did) and somehow missed the chamomile chocolate. Oh well, more reasons to return.

En is on Hudson and Leroy, which is a block or two north of Houston, so I think it falls in the WV. I am not sure what you would call the area South of Houston to Canal? Anyone? ← SoHo? ETA: Wow, the kitchen looks AWESOME. ← Yes, Soho, for SOuth of HOuston..

I actually first met Jenn and Mike at the Grand Army Plaza greenmarket. We got to talking and found out after first trying their bacon I was hooked. I have also been to a few "Meet the Farmers" dinners at Applewood in which they had a meal planned around the their product and they spoke fo 15 minutes about what they are doing, and how they are raising the pigs. A year or two ago they started selling their chickens that they just let roam around the farm mainly for egg laying purposes, but at the end of summer they sell the chickens off -- man are the chickens good. Taste nothing like store bought fancy organic ones, way more flavor and texture. We actually have a summer house in upstate NY, it is on Canada Lake, which is about one hour west of Albany, in the southern most part of the Adirondack park. Where about are you doc? ← I live near Lake George about an hour north of Albany. As much as I love the pork from FPF, the chicken may be their greatest treasure. I can't say that I have eaten better.

My understanding is that he will be consulting for Stephen Starr who is still looking for an Exec Chef.

We had a 2:15 reservation for lunch and didn't complete our party until 2:30, so the restaurant cleared out as we ate. In addition I was largely shooting towards the wall.

Hi Moby. It is precisely because we agree in so many other areas that I am perplexed by our disconnect here. I am happy that you had such a wonderful meal at L'Astrance. It certanly is possible that you hit a bad night at J-G or that his cooking simply affects us differently. Unfortunately, it is impossible to know that unless we were there at the same time tasting the same dishes.

I will leave off tonight with a few miscellaneous shots. Pichet Ong speaking with Antoinette Bruno Myself with Jose Andres and Wylie Dufresne George Mendes preparing tripe for Chris Cosentino's workshop. The kitchen was beginning to buzz - Katsuya Fukushima, Johnny Iuzzini and Chris Cosentino

I don't remember who took this picture for me, but Michael Stipe is the fellow cut off on the end Whoever it was must have been a total food junkie.

I'm sorry that I had to miss this. I love his Chocolate Desserts book that he did with Dorie Greenspan. The thread on it is IMO one eGullet's all-time greats. His Ispahan is seriously good stuff. I enjoyed an Ispahan Ice Cream Sandwich from one of his shops in Paris last year. I did get to have him sign a book for me though.

Chef Boulud hung around to chat for a little while after his discussion. Here are some photos: Chatting with Chef Paul Liebrandt. With Chefs George Mendes and Liebrandt. Chef Mendes was indispensible in the prep kitchen and very helpful to me personally. Thanks, George. Chef Liebrandt showing some of his products to Chef Boulud and discussing technique. What with all that foie gras, I had to get my head into the photo too!

The charred corn ravioli was absolutely outstanding - one of the all-time great dishes that I have had. My favorite dessert was the chocolate fig tart. While I did enjoy some dishes more than others, there wasn't a clunker in the bunch or even one I wished I simply hadn't ordered.

Thanks, Ya-Roo. That sounds like it was a lot of fun. I later had the opportunity to meet Chef Ong. He was certainly fun to be around. I, too am looking forward to the opening of P*Ong. Is NYC in the middle of a Pastry Renaissance, or what? Should I be fortunate enough to get to attend this event again next year, I will make a point of attending at least one workshop.

Keynote Panel: The Makings of a Four Star Restaurant Chefs Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert, Moderated by Jay McInerney Daniel Boulud arrived shortly before the 10AM scheduled start of this panel. He was warmly greeted by his colleagues and others. Jay McInerny, the highly regarded novelist cum food writer and Eric Ripert flank Peter Elliot prior to the Panel. The panelists confer with Antoinette Bruno just prior to their discussion. The three on stage together. Chef Daniel Boulud Chef Eric Ripert Jay McInerny Photographed by our own Harlan Turk. I'm sure Harlan would be posting more pictures here, but he was working professionally for Starchefs.com. The topic was about what separates four star (NYT) restaurants from non-four star restaurants. Both Boulud and Ripert had plenty of interesting things to say and McInerny did a great job of keeping the conversation flowing and en pointe. All agreed that top-quality, delicious food was a basic requirement. Clearly many lesser ranked restaurants meet this level, yet fail to attain greater renown. Boulud was quick to emphasize that the difference belongs to the Front of the House. The service must be expert and seemless and the details luxurious. All agreed that the utmost must be done to make make the guest feel special and pampered. Ripert emphasized the importance of consistency. It is not sufficient to produce great meals only periodically. It must be the rare exception only and if that for a restaurant to get and maintain their ranking. With all of that it is difficult for such restaurants to remain profitable as they tend to operate with lower margins than less ambitious restaurants despite often steep prices. food costs are certainly high as they buy top quality meat, seafood and produce from the best purveyors local or international. While staying cognizant of prices, they favor buildiing relationships with valued purveyors rather than haggling for the lowest price. Boulud mentioned an anecdote in which he had one of Johnny Iuzzini's desserts and asked his own pastry chef how come he didn't have the strawberries Iuzzini had even though they used the same purveyor! food prices are not the only high costs faced by these haute cuisine restaurants. The cost of table service is higher as well. The cost of a broken wine glass can be upwards of $25 compared to a dollar or two at less luxurious establishments. Boulud mentioned that he is planning to open a wine bar with food in Manhatten. Though that place will be less fancy, it will still utilize costly glassware. The discussion moved on to entrepreneurship. In this area Boulud and Ripert are divergent. Ripert has had numerous opportunities and offers for various projects and restaurants, but with the exception of one in the Caribbean, he has preferred to maintain a more modest work schedule and lifestyle. Boulud, on the other hand, admitted to needing only two good nights of sleep per week. He thrives on working with his various restaurants while centering his time with Daniel. He is comfortable with the people he has placed in their various roles and their adherance to his overall vision. The restaurants are not clones of each other either. He stated that Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach is significantly different than the restaurant of the same name in NYC, as each reflects their environment and the expression of their respective chefs de cuisine. The above descriptions are my recollections as best I can remember. I'm sure that there was more discussed and invite anyone else who was there to add his or her recollections or comments to this thread on this or any of the other discussions held.

The BBG is one of my favorite places in Brooklyn, but is best in spring during the cherry blossoms. They have (or at least used to) agreat Japanese Festival there each spring.

Thanks Godito. I hope you get there. I would love to read your reports from there (and anyone else as well). I wish that I could get there myself, but will be happy to read reports here on eGullet.

Sounds like we had some overlap in the neighborhood, although it haven't lived there regularly since 1977. My parents lived there until about 1990 or so. I do believe that was the same fish store that you referred to. I love Jacques Torres Chocolates too. I particularly like lunch at Grimaldi's followed by dessert at Torres.

Sounds great. I am curious about the mushrooms. I look forward to seeing what you get. I also look forward to your thoughts on the Flying Pigs pork. It comes from my neck of the woods and I have become friends with the farmers. They are good people and do a wonderful job of raising top quality pork in as humane an environment as a pig could ever hope for. In addition, Jenn Small was a panelist on Sustainability at last weeks International Chefs Congress. Some topnotch restaurants in NYC like Mas (Farmhouse) and Savoy use their pork.

I would strongly suggest it. I think I have a sense of what you like and I think you would love this.

Thanks, Robert. I hope we don't find out for quite some time! ← Great report Doc and incredible, clear photos!!! A question about the Baked Potato Soup. Is that a piece of the Potato on top? And secondly, the broth appears thin, is that true? Interesting soup - I would love to attempt a crack at making some. Thanks. ← Thanks, Rich. The soup was in fact very thin. We asked about the "topping" of the soup and was told that it was butter. I imagine that it was butter that had other elements incorporated into it. I cannot begin to imagine how they achieved the flavors they did in this soup.