Jake Dear

We’re in the wintry mood for Tripes à la mode de Caen. I have an old (2002) edition of Emmanuel Rubin’s “Gourmet Paris,” listing places by dish -- and for this he suggested Restaurant des Chauffeurs (16eme) – which I think no longer exists? In any event, I would appreciate recommended places for this dish. Bonus: How about a place in Paris (other than Pied de Cochon) for Gratinée?

Jean Blanchard, Of course one person’s charming experience may not be another’s, but if you go there we wish you well and hope to hear your impression of the ile. And please check on our trees . . . . -- Jake

Responding to George Baugh and PhilD: Good points, both. First, although “cutting edge” is a relative term (and at the time I wrote those notes, we were coming off two weeks of dining in the countryside and brasseries that were far from cutting edge), I should have used the term “edgy” – in the sense of daring to be different, which I think describes the concept of this individualistic place. Second, re: “velouté”: Usually, my 17-year-old son is the one who reveals my confusion. Your post sent me scurrying to consult with my resident chef and wife, Mo, who pulled out a couple books (including Patricia Wells’ “The Paris Cookbook,”) and with a big smile confirmed your comments. In mitigation I will say that “velouté” was the term used on Le Gaigne’s own carte, and I later made the mistake of looking it up in Larousse Gastronomique, Vegetable & Salads (2004 ed, p. 266), which I should have realized might not be the best source for newer trends! (This illustrates that a little knowledge goes a wrong way.) -- Jake

This has evolved into an interesting and useful discussion about theory and nomenclature. But somewhat lost have been the four places themselves. Do they deserve the attention that Bitmann and powerful New York Times focused upon them? On a recent trip in June – just before Bittman’s article came out – we independently scoped out and visited three of the four he mentions, but because of timing and scheduling issues, we could have dinner at only one: Le Gaigne. We enjoyed this tiny purple place very much. Mickaël Gaignon, the young chef, produces edgy and contemporary dishes. The titles for each dish are simple -- for example, to start, “Le Petit Pois” turned out to be a chilled sweet pea velouté (a velvety cream sauce made with stock, flour and butter), mackerel tartar and chorizo chips -- wow! “La Morille” was fresh morel mushrooms in a pearl barley risotto, topped with crispy parmesan slices -- fantastic. Our main courses were slightly more traditional, but rendered with flair: “Le Boeuf” was skirt steak (from France) with shallots, rosemary-flavored vegetables and marrowbone; “La Raie Française” was skate (fish) stuffed with capers and grain mustard, and incredible creamy potatoes. The wine list was quite reasonable; we bought a bottle each of red and white, and (as the wine carte encourages) we simply corked the remainder to take back to our apartment. (By the way, what a lively and hopping gay scene there is on rue des Archives at about 11:00 p.m. on a warm Thursday in early June!) Additional notes: (1) Other listings on the carte looked great but ordering that way would have nearly doubled our bill. We were happily confined to the 39 euro menu, which offered three or four entrees, plats, and deserts, for a total bill of euros 125 (this, immediately prior to the VAT reduction of July 2009, included aperitifs, two bottles of wine, sparking water (Puits Saint Georges), and expresso for one). (2) Make sure to visit the unisex bathroom to see interesting plum-colored lighting, emanating from most unusual locations. This also allows you to use the unique sink, and to take a peek through the kitchen door’s small window to survey the cramped and bright cooking quarters. --Jake Dear ( http://parisandbeyondinfrance.blogspot.com/ )

The prior posts pretty well capture the idea of Chalet des Iles. I’m sure that some might complain that the fare is not quite what they want; but it is good, and as PhilD observes, “Sometimes it is all about the food, but at other times the venue and the company create the best meals, this is one of those places.” So it was for us on our two visits. Our first visit was a few years ago, after my wife, Mo, an avid walker, became tired of too many hard Paris sidewalks (and dog droppings). I suggested a stroll in the Bois de Boulogne. I was vaguely aware of a 1930s-style chalet on an island in the middle of “lac Inferieur.” I also figured, optimistically, that because my handy plan de Paris showed no bridge or other means of getting to the island, there must be some kind of boat service. To this day, Mo marvels about how, while sauntering along on that chilly January day, we suddenly spied this beautiful chalet across the water with no visible means to get there. Not to worry, I confidently said, as we strode to a small dock and read a sign offering passage for 1 euro. Almost magically the launch arrived, and we boarded for the short trip. The lunch was fine; the food quite good, if not excellent. But the setting and the feeling – well, this could be a Mastercard commercial; priceless. Adding to the charming and somewhat surreal atmosphere, we watched for two hours outside our dining room window during lunch as a team of three gardeners traversed the rolling winter grass with small cartloads of dormant trees, stopping occasionally and resting frequently and smoking extensively while deliberating just where to plant. By the time we finished dessert, they had tentatively located the spots for only about four trees, but we enjoyed the performance art, and vowed to return to see the trees in situ in future years. So far, unfortunately, we’ve revisited only once, with our teenage son, who probably was not as smitten with the chalet as we – yet we did have a good little family row around the lac après-lunch in a rental boat. This is, for us, a magical site to which we will return. Indeed, sometimes it’s not all about the food. Jake Dear http://parisandbeyondinfrance.blogspot.com/