R.G. Diamond

We rented an apartment in the Marais and then, and later came out of our daze and realized that the next day is Easter. Obviously that's a very crowded week, but we're stuck with it, as that's when our kid is out of school. What oh what will be open for dinner? I'm guessing we're going to have to go ethnic. Is there some fabulous Moroccan place I should know about? The kid, 9, is a world-class eater. Raw fish, truffles, Lamb Vindaloo, you name it. Also, any recommendations for a LATE dinner the night before, Saturday, would also be -- pardon the expression -- scarfed up. We'll be jetlagged, so we're talking Bistro, not utter formality. Thanks in advance, R.G.

I don't know your price range or the number in your party, but the nicest villa I have ever rented was called the Villa Molninazzo, from Daniel Morneau at Vacanza Bella. It sleeps 10, all with en suite bathrooms, and it's near both Todi and Orvieto. The pictures on the internet don't begin to do it justice. I wrote a review of it on the Slow Travelers web site. R.G.

We stayed at the St. Regis Grand a couple of years ago and found it to be huge and beautiful -- and a fairly unpleasant walk to anywhere we wanted to go, due to the large boulevards of whizzing traffic surrounding it. There are other hotels closer to the major sights, no question. I prefer the Pantheon/Navona area. There are many locals mixed in with the tourists, and many get-real trattorias alongside the quadruple-language ripoff spots. If you have deep pockets and are not planning to do one step of walking, the St. Regis might work for you. The rooms were gorgeous. R.G.

I live in Rome right now, and am pretty familiar with most of the areas you discuss. Norcia and Volterra, while nice, are kind of off by themselves in remote corners. Better for a day trip than a base. We stayed in a villa near Lucca this summer, and while Lucca itself is a wonderful town, I kind of agreed with my friend who sniffed, "The area around it is like Appalachia." That's not strictly true -- but the countryside is much less protected (i.e., there are ugly modern buildings and factories) than other parts of Tuscany/Umbria, much more heavily populated, much less pastoral. I would not return to stay in the countryside there. There just isn't that much of it. It personally love the Orvieto/Todi area for a base. Spoleto, a great town, is at your fingertips, you can scoot up 45 to Spello,Bevagna, Montefalco, or down to Narni, taking a dip into Lazio, visiting the interesting Viterbo, Tuscania, Bomoarzo, etc. And then, to the north, you have the best part of Tuscany -- the Sienna province -- with Montepulciano, Pienza, Montalcino, etc. -- all within easy A-1 daytripping distance. Also, the area around San Casango di Bangni (sp?) is some of the most beautiful countryside I've ever seen. Ditto the drive between Todi and Spoleto. Do not miss. R.G.

Just got back from Venice yesterday, guys! It was a third trip, and I can finally enjoy this city properly, now that I know to stay away from San Marco (as far as food & accomodations go). I agree wholeheartedly about Alle Testiere (my favorite all-around, casual atmosphere & the best, freshest & most creative seafood), and Al Covo, which we tried the year before and got that "maybe-it-was-a-good-restaurant-once-but-certainly-not-now" vibe. Da Fiore is too expensive, even for what you get. Agree with earlier posts about Vini di Gigio -- good all around restaurant. Check out "Shannon's restaurant list" on the Slow Travelers web site, which is infallable. She's currently compiling a (recently researched) book, which I suggest we all buy. R.G.

All right, so that was a misty-eyed tourist's view of Paris. You can't blame a girl for falling sway to the romantic spell of an experienced seducer. R.G.

Friends, I am in Venice now, but I will post my findings when I get back to the U.S. It's the least I can do. Trip was magical. R.G.

We are here in Paris now. Kid has already pronouced the croissants "better than home," and gone into raptures over the cheese ("Can I have fruit aned cheese for breakfast?") And we just got here. Thanks, all, for the suggestions. I'll slog my way through them. This apt. is a couple of blocks from the Place de Vosges. Seems like a great location. People are perfectly friendly -- if they hate us, they're doing a damn good job of concealing it. So glad we came. Some people were having kneejerk panic and cancelling their trips. Not us foodies. R.G.

I, too, ate bad food in Venice, until I got hip to the Slow Travelers web site, and particularly, to Shannon's Venice restaurant list. She lived there, recently, for a year, so the out-of-dateness that afflicts most guide books is not an issue. (Also, she's at work on a book.) Nothing like a community of Italiaphiles to point you to the good stuff. R.G.

Yes, I read "Paris to the Moon," and particularly enjoyed the chapter about Adam's doomed attempts to organize a revolt against the hostile takeover of his favorite restaurant by a conglomerate. Off topic, but as to bad food in Italy, we are also going to Venice on this trip, where I've spent time before (and so know how to avoid restaurant pitfalls) and Shannon's restaurant list, on Slow Travelers, is recently updated and very reliable. I had despaired of getting good food in Venice until then. This board is great. R.G.

Thank you, thank you all for taking pity on us. Despite our reasonable sophistication level, the spectre of Paris makes us feel like trailer trash. And thank you for including suggestions for a precocious kid's entertainment -- he happens to be a Titanic nut. I often think he ought to be raised in Europe -- his interests fall so much more along European lines (classical music, fine dining, dressing up, hanging out) than American (fast food, baseball, hitting). And moving overseas is a fantasy I've had. And our jobs (writers) would even permit it. But oh, the effort! The language lessons! The unknown! Still, the fantasy gnaws. This is off-subject. Can you tell I'm getting excited? R. G.

Yes, we feel like an absolute rubes, but we have an excellent culinary excuse -- we just keep going to Italy. We're finally managing to tear ourselves away. At least we're foodie enough to, on this eve of war, be angling for restaurant recommendations near the apartment we've rented, a couple of blocks from the Bastille. We could be sitting, glued to CNN, and freaking that our plane will blow up, or the Parisians will stone us. But no, food first. We are a couple with a kid who can be brought, or left with the other family accompanying us, depending on the hauteur of the place. However, know that our 7 year old is a major food fan, contemptuous of MacDonald's, wants to be a chef when he grows up, etc. When I smuggled a white truffle home from Piemonte in my suitcase, whipped it out and started to shave it over his pasta, little Tom said, "This is the happiest day of my LIFE." So. He's game for most food. But his tired little legs may not be able to walk as far as we can for dinner, so... What's good in our area? We're interested in cafes, bistros, starred restaurants, whatever. No budget limitations, but will sometimes opt for casual out of sheer tiredness. You all sound intimidatingly knowledgable, sophisticated and, well... Parisian. But we're quick learners and eat everything under the sun. Take pity on us and post. Suggestions? R.G.

We live in the neighborhood and find Spago to be the only consistently A-plus dining experience around. Yeah, it's a cliche to enthuse about it, but what'reya gonna do? It manages to completely pamper you without a wisp of formality. It doesn't hurt that if there's a fresh ingredient to be had in L.A., Wolgang gets it first. Our only problem with the restaurant, which correctly doesn't stint on butter or cream, is that my husband can't go often, or he'll get fat! Once I asked my six-year-old (foodie) what the happiest day of his life was. And he said, "When you took me to Spago." R.G.

We recently checked out Jeanty at Jack's downtown. They haven't messed with the historic space much (good!) and the menu is retro-French, old standby dishes that you thought were tired, but had amazing life left in them because they were so well prepared. Kind of a revalation. I second Boulevard. Very San Francisco, upscale without being formal, reliably good, although first-tier "fine" I wouldn't call it. If you're in that dining wasteland known as Marin, we really like Marche de Fleur in downtown Ross (all two blocks of it), a husband and wife chef-owned lovely dining room (with patio). American nouvelle, with impeccable seasonal ingredients. A way better restaurant than those Marin know-nothings deserve. (This restaurant's Zagat rating just came out, and it's a 24.) I like Acquerello, although it's rather a formal little oasis. Also, for really fine Moroccan, Aziza in the Richmond just knocked our socks off. It's relatively new and very popular -- reserve. No, they do not make you sit on the floor, and yes, there are belly dancers, but only on the weekends and they make a mercifully brief appearance. Exciting flavors. If you're down on Chestnut Street, Chaz on Fillmore/Chestnut is just delicious. Kind of unknown, and he's having a struggle getting customers, so give him your business. He used to cook for David Bouley, and knows what he's doing. One of his simple desserts just kills me -- a simple individually baked vanilla cake, still hot, with homemade ice cream. This place deserves to survive. One plus -- you can always get in! R.G.

I am new to this board too, and may have an interesting perspective because I live both in San Francisco and L.A.... There is no question in my mind that the food in S.F. is better, and generally a better value. S.F. has both the great ethnic dives and the destination restaurants. L.A. has great dives too, but many of them are in such far-flung neighborhoods that it's hard to get it up for the drive. S.F.'s restaurants are generally not polluted by having to be a "scene." This is the great undoer of L.A. restaurants, as you can't blame the management for wanting to encourage people from hanging at the bar, three-deep, hoping to pick up an implanted 21-year-old. But it doesn't improve the food. I think we are having a food slump in L.A. Some of the old warhorses are starting to run out of steam. Finally, in all these years, had my first mildly disapointing meal at Chinois. That was a blow. Conversely, Spago is consistently good, with good service (no attitude), and it's not to be overlooked: if there is a good ingredient on the West Coast, Wolfgang will get it first. La Cachette is tasty but uninspired and seems to be given over to an elderly clientele. I agree that Drago is a joke -- they've stopped trying. They should close. Valentino was never what it was supposed to have been. Campanile can occasionally have an off night, and service has never been their strong suit, but it still hits more than it misses. Patina, even before the chef left, was bland and dull and made us wait 45 minutes for our reserved table with no comps -- not even bar drinks! Rockenwagner is still good. As to the newer spots, Alex hasn't quite hit its stride, but we enjoyed our dinner there. Angelino is DELICIOUS! Tastes like Italy. Simple, limited menu, but they do everything very well (no wonder it's packed). What a pleasant surprise. Hope the chef doesn't leave. I could go on... and probably will later. But if it's a Fine Dining Experience you want... L.A. is running on fumes. You know it's a problem when someone comes to you with an expense account and says, "Where do you want you go?" and you can't get excited. R.G.