yes, Maurin des Maures does a good bb - but you must order in advacne and don't take chirac's word for it - the government's (not his) chateau is nearby and he'd go anywhere for a free lunch - or free anything. bb originated as a way for fishermen to use up unsold fish at the end of the day - water was boiled fiercely with olive oil to make an emulsion and the whole fish dropped in - no crustacea of any kind and they'd never heard - or could afford saffron. I speak as someone who lives in the Var and is the author of Provence Gastronomique. Like so many things in the world of French food the bb charter exists but is contrived as a marketing device. I think bb is vastly over-rated - having said that, try Chez Fonfon (nothing frou frou about it) in a tiny calanque a short taxi ride from Marseille's old port. But if more people knew about bourride there would be fewer arguments about bb - and many more satisfied diners. Bon appétit, Erica Brown
