I love Giles Coren, I think he's a fabulous writer. And while AA Gill can veer a little too much into randomness for my tastes, I still think he's a great writer. Although I don't agree with him about everything, such as his dislike of freebies and fiddly things from the kitchen. But that's by the by. I think the key is finding someone whose tastes align with yours and whose knowledge etc you trust, and relying on their opinion, if you feel the need to do so, whether they be friend, critic, blogger or bloke who works in the kebab shop.