FoodPassion

Well, JohnL, I disagree with you. That’s the concept of the supermarket vs. the old grocery store, the superstores vs. the supermarket and the department store, department stores vs. the separate stores, and the malls, vs. going to a shopping to the downtown area – It’s all under one roof. And guess what, those ideas made it! One more thing, although you have the right to your opinion, I find it really difficult for you to judge without even evaluating the place yourself. Not everyone’s taste and experience is the same. I suggest you try it first, and then reassess your ideas with some facts. I do agree it is a different concept, but I find that many of you are so extremely solidify to the old and so objectional to change, I’m pretty shocked! I personally hate routines, and any thing that makes me step outside the box, I find fascinating and entertaining – as long as the quality is not compromised! If the restaurant would have a four page menu, I would tend to agree a bit more with you. Because experience has taught me that quantity decreases quality. But in this case, their menu is not huge. Granted that eating at the wine bar will not allow the bar tender to tend the diners as well as in the restaurant. But, perhaps if one chooses to eat at the bar, just expect different service!

← I hope we are not going to see some posts slamming the critic and/or questioning his credentials. I think that there is a general consensus that Varietal has a problem in its concept and executing that concept. As for the food. There is always an element of subjectivity. I would expect to see agreement regarding the concept and execution with some disagreement more likely regarding the food. The key to Varietal's success in a very competitive restaurant environment is to draw people who will tend to appreciate the style of the food and the dining and drinking experience they offer. If they are not clearly conveying what they are all about they will not reach these people. If the experience is not successfully delivered the people they do reach will not return. This is important--I am not even talking about the food. Some will like the food some will not. I believe that the reason that WD-50 has been so successful where Paul Liebrandt has had problems is that Wylie understands the need to have a clear vision and to have the environment where he can execute that vision. The experimental and avant garde nature of their cooking (I am not talking about quality) means that their universe of potential repeat customers is limited in size. WD-50 in its location, its size, its service, its ambiance, its pricing presents a clear and harmonious vision. Its customers go to it. Were WD-50 to move to a large space in the Time Warner Building raise prices to cover the overhead--I believe it would fail unless Wylie changed his approach to cooking and/or its execution dramatically. Liebrandt would IMOP be better off if he found a smaller space downtown--a better environment for his vision. As for the cooking--avant garde is always controversial by its very nature. I believe that it is extremely difficult to pull this off. It is not that difficult to shock and suprise diners with unconventional technique, exotic ingredients and unconventional combinations of flavors/ingredients. To move beyond the shock and awe to the point that a large number of people return over and over, to offer an experience that creates a following/repeat business is difficult enough. I always thought that Grey Kunz at Lespinasse was a master at understanding his audience and introducing a certain wonderment into his food. Was he experimental? Yes. To the degree that Dufresne is? No. But each worked in the perfect stage/setting for their talents. So can Varietal overcome the difficulties in their vision and its execution? Maybe. I won't comment on the quality of the food--I haven't tried it. I can say that while the wine bar seems like it has some potential--I doubt that the owners would be happy being successful as a wine bar only. Attempting to be too many things at once is a problem--to me, a good restaurant is when the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. The whole being the totality of the experience a diner walks away with. So,I suppose if one approaches Varietal as three (or more) separate and distinct concepts: Wine bar, wine friendly restaurant, patisserie, some elements avant garde some less etc--sort of a whatever one wants it to be--then ok. I doubt this is the vision. Looks to me like a wine guy, a chef and a desert chef each decided to operate their own place under one roof. Avant garde concept? Or misguided adventure? Time will tell. ←

Here I go again with my two cents (or five!). I completely agree with doc! The reason I think desserts work better is because of two reasons. 1. Just like doc said, it ends your meal with a creative upbeat sense – like the “grand finale” in a performance, or like in wine tasting – you begin with the mildest working you way up to the boldest. 2. I “personally” feel that desserts should be creative and fun. There is a certain vivacious, cheery, and frisky playfulness in desserts that lends itself to the ingenuity of a pastry chef. For example, Chef Kahn can create a beautiful masterpiece putting together flavors that go really well together, but no one else has ever done. It makes me think of the Pastry Olympics I have seen on TV (never in person-although that would be awesome), and observe what the international teams can do with sugar, chocolates, statues, etc. I don’t think you can do much of that with meats, fish and vegetables! Oh, and just one last reason – I have a sweet tooth & just love desserts. I think if I go to a new restaurant and they serve me another “molting chocolate cake” or “cheese cake – in any form”, or any custard/crème brulee “French or Spanish” I will probably barf! Most of the restaurants take the boring-traditional or desserts, add some kind of couli, (a berry or tropical fruit) a liqueur or sauce, and then they call it gourmet! I don't think so!

I think you completely missed my point. You are agreeing with me, whether you believe it or not. What I said was, don’t judge the different styles until you try them. If you try it, and you don’t like it, it’s ok. You have the right not to like something. My big objection to JohnL is that he said people where he worked would describe the food “weird”. This is when I said that one should not describe something weird just because it’s different. Go and try it with an open mind and see if you enjoy the difference. (Cuozzo, on the other hand is "supposed" to be a professional and he should not use those words.) You also said you would not like Chinese food in a French restaurant. Well, isn’t that what “fusion” is all about? Don’t Chinese restaurants offer ice cream for dessert? Well, the Chinese restaurants I visited in China did not offer ice cream. By the way, did you know that McDonald’s in China is different? The hamburger is cooked differently and it has soy sauce, fish sauce and MSG. Did you know that McDonald’s in Russia serves “French Fries” in a bowl of oil? It’s all about what you are used to, and one’s ability to try something new. Don’t like it? It’s ok! But don't negatively judge it until then. I am glad you finally made the distinction between fact and opinion in your third paragraph. You are 100% entitled to your opinion. I, on the other hand, believe that satisfaction does not necessarily come from the aesthetic, but from the flavors. I felt extremely satisfied at the end of the meal at Varietal (although, I would probably agree with you if the menus were reversed). I think that ending it with Chef Kahn’s amazing desserts is like ending the meal with a big bang!!!!

Well, I've waited for everyone to respond regarding Mr. Cuozzo's "informal" crticism, and I've read a lot of your comments - some I agree, others I disagree. I wholeheartedly agree with the comment that just one negative comment (wether formal or not) can tryly taint a new restaurant's reputation to the point of harm. I disagree again, with the critic who believes that the two menus are disjointed. Again, I want to point out that the newness of the idea maybe what's troubling some. Think of when El Bulli started - what an idea?!!! A restaurant that would have a laboratory? Was it "weird" or innovative? Well, the rest is history. I just read that El Bulli is the #1 restaurant in the world! It beat all the "classical cuisine" restaurants with "conservative and well-match" menus. So I guess quite a few people in the world agree me and Varietal - that new and different is not necessarily "weird" or "bad" or "negative" in any way. Although I do agree with doc that the dinner dishes are very tasty, I "personally" would prefer a little more involved and creative dishes. I still think that Chef Kahn's dishes are highly creative, super tasty and just awesome! ← I fear you are missing the point of most of the criticism. You note "the newness of the idea"--well what is the "idea" behind Varietal? Much of what posters here and even Cuozzo are critical of is Varietal seem to be confused in its overall concept. Is it a wine bar a restaurant a desert bar? all three? Is the cuisine --New American, experimental, avant garde, wine friendly? all of the above? Does one go for wine? wine plus food? a full meal? a wine tasting? just desert? The problem with the wine bar and food combination is clearly apparent. Does one eat at the bar? --what?--appetizers, entrees, deserts--a full meal. does one enjoy flights of interesting wines? with food? can all this be done comfortably in the space alloted? A "wine bar" that serves food (desert) can not recommend a wine to accompany the deserts then there is a serious problem! with--service, a wine list that has no matches for the deserts, deserts for which there are no wine matches--you can look at this from every angle--there is a problem somewhere. To use your analogy, say El Bulli offered a simple conventional flan for desert? Or say the desert menu at WD-50 consisted of conventional apple pie or a piece of Junior's cheesecake? Regardless of the quality of these desert offerings do you thing that diners would be at least mildly confused and/or disappointed? It is clear that varietal has a problem in who they are or are trying to be. people--consumers and critics are confused. In fact based upon Nishla's comments--it appears the staff is confused as well!! ← Yes, to all of your questions. It is all of the above, and why not? Why can’t they have a wine bar along with a dining room. Who set the rules? Where is the problem? Is it more difficult for the restaurant to achieve perfection in all? Yes! Is it impossible? No! Is it challenging? Yes! Why not the challenge? Is it because some people believe that traditional styles should never be altered? Is it because some people’s palate remains their entire life in a monotonous circle and they are afraid to step outside of the circle? There are lots of questions one can answer and not everyone will agree. “Generally”, I think restaurants like El Bulli or Varietal are for the more sophisticated palates and the artsy foodies who want to step outside the box. Just like Picasso’s and Dali’s are not for the “average bear”!!!! I don’t see the problems you see as to where should one eat – at the bar? at the restaurant? It’s a matter of personal opinion and probably time! One should feel free to try all and experiment with different styles and flavors; and of course go to where others have not gone yet. That’s what’s exciting. I think “doc” understands this concept very well. I personally don’t even like leftovers, not because they are leftovers, but because my taste buds require change and arousal. I feel bad for what happened to Nishla. I don’t think it has anything to do with “people being confused”, unless the people you are talking about are unacquainted and uncultured in foods. I’m talking about people who make it their business to learn about and enjoy varieties of foods and styles – people who view food as an art. I “personally” had a pairing of wines suggested by the somaliere for desserts only. So, I’m not sure what happened – maybe the bar tender was sick and a new person took over – I don’t know. All I know is that they do have the pairings and they are darn good!

Well, I've waited for everyone to respond regarding Mr. Cuozzo's "informal" crticism, and I've read a lot of your comments - some I agree, others I disagree. I wholeheartedly agree with the comment that just one negative comment (wether formal or not) can tryly taint a new restaurant's reputation to the point of harm. I disagree again, with the critic who believes that the two menus are disjointed. Again, I want to point out that the newness of the idea maybe what's troubling some. Think of when El Bulli started - what an idea?!!! A restaurant that would have a laboratory? Was it "weird" or innovative? Well, the rest is history. I just read that El Bulli is the #1 restaurant in the world! It beat all the "classical cuisine" restaurants with "conservative and well-match" menus. So I guess quite a few people in the world agree me and Varietal - that new and different is not necessarily "weird" or "bad" or "negative" in any way. Although I do agree with doc that the dinner dishes are very tasty, I "personally" would prefer a little more involved and creative dishes. I still think that Chef Kahn's dishes are highly creative, super tasty and just awesome!

Doc: You are right on! You are absolutely right! But I will disagree with JohnL again. His quote: "If I were alive at the time and didn't like Picasso's "rose period," maybe I'd have stopped buying his paintings until he modified his style to something I liked more.", proves exactly my point! JohnL, if you don't like something, you don't have to say you like it, but you should neither say that it is bad or weird! You may say, it looks or tastes bad to "ME", but never "IT" is weird for the rest of the world to know. Cuozzo did single out Varietal, and that is my entire point - it was wrong. Again as far as your description of "disjointed menus" some of "US" enjoy that, we like the unusual, the taking risks, the different menus, etc. So, I "COULD" say that the unusual style of this restaurant is "awesome" to me, I should "NEVER" imply that "IT" is awesome for everyone, like you. Obviously many of us who have been there have a much different opinion than you - and that's ok. My objection is to making blanketed statements - that's all! Thanks for reading!

Can you imagine if the Picasso or Dali would have given up because "problems" not done on purpose. Sneakeater-I think the problems that you experienced had nothing to do with what we were saying about Cuozzo's criticisms. Yes, all new restaurants have problems - it's a given. What I was saying is that a food writer should not critique based on his lack of knowledge or taste!

Unfortunately, my guess would be it probably won't. (without some reworking) First--trying to be a wine bar and a restaurant is difficult at best--one has to be somewhat sublimated to the other. Logistically, you can't serve a full menu at a wine bar and combine complex food with tasting flights of wine. I personally, would be hard pressed to focus on tasting various wines and eating complicated food at the same time while sitting at a bar. second--IMOP the menu has to make sense. The style and execution of the savory dishes needs to be carried through in the deserts.--the vision needs to be in synch. You can't successfully pair a great chef and a great desert chef unless they have the same vision. third--same for wine--the list needs to flow from the food or vice verse. it all has to come together for a patron and make sense. the pricing, service and ambiance also come into play and coalesce into a dining experience. This sounds like (and again I haven't been yet) several concepts that taken individually, are well executed (the wine bar especially,sounds like a lot of fun) but that do not come together well as a whole. That is, this may be a case where the whole is less than the sum of the parts! ← Just testing - My last post did not show! Just ← OK, I guess the website is back up! I have been on vacation and have missed all the fun discussions. So, here are my two cents (or three)! I totally diagree with JohnL about Mr. Cuozzo. Whether he did a formal or informal criticism, or just his "opinion" of the restaurant and the food, it does not negate his lack of knowledge about food and styles. Besides, when a food critic expresses his opinions, he needs to say so. Ms. Cuozzo clearly exposed his ignorance: Common, he does not know the mushrooms???? He talked about Tonka beans as if a bowl of beans were served - it was only a liquified mixed smidgen. As everyone in the food industry knows (except Mr. Cuozzo) there are a lot of foods that contain poisons, like: apples, carrots, beets, hot dogs, all deli meats, etc. So, his speech about the poison Tonka beans is null! And yes, for those of you who wanted to know, the beans added a very nice contrast to the dish - which is what the restaurant, menu, and wines are all about..... Some of the posts continue to talk about the difference between the dinner vs. the dessert menus, the difference between the big vs. small wineries, the difference between the heavy decor vs. simple or minimalistic decor. People, I spoke to the owner and the chefs, this is what the restaurant is all about. The wanted to be unusual with great foods (one traditional - the other avant garde); with the largest list of "small and less known wines"; with simple decor so that the food shines - not the pictures or the glamour; with two great chefs - one conservative gourmet and one amazing modern artist who can shame "El Bulli"; with an unsuspecting address, for the effect of surprise. This is what is all about! NY has way too many restaurants already, all kinds of restaurants; but how many offer this diversity, this difference. Maybe the name of the restaurant in itself is a pun in words "VARIETAL" describing grapes, decribing a variety of foods uncommon, varied, and non-boring. It's almost like the opposite of "fussion". I am an food loving artist, and I appreciate the creativity, the innovation, the mixture of styles. It is refreshing to see a new restaurant stepping outside the box. How many new restaurants offer about the same foods, maybe with just a new name or a different sauce - I'm sick of it! Another thing that really bothers me about Mr. Cuozzo and John L is that I don't think they understand the word "STYLE". If you go for dinner to Varietal expecting to get, I don't know, roast beef with mashed potatoes, or bake fish with crabmeat; it's like going to MOMA and expecting to see a Rembrandt or a DaVinci. Could you then say that MOMA's art is to way out there and that no one really knows that kind of art? No, that would be a very uneducated comment just showing ignorance and lack of culture, right? Well, that's what Mr. Cuozzo did. I think i his mind he was comparing restaurants like Tavern on the Green with Varietal. If anyone has communication with Mr. Cuozzo, someone please tell him that he should compare apples with apples and oranges with oranges. He and everyone has a right to their opinions. However, when you are a food writer/critic, you are saying that you are expert in the field. Of course, people who have not been to the restaurant or who do not understand variety, innovation, creativity, art, would tend to believe what Mr. Cuozzo said. .....and whether you agree with me or not, that is just wrong. Many of us appreciate and love the style, the dinners, the wines, and most of all the artistic talent of the pastry chef at Varietal. I hope they continue their course. As for Mr. Cuozzo, maybe he can become a food writer/critic for fast food restaurants - I'm sure he would recognize the ingredients and styles!!!

Open minded is a good thing. How many more years of boring desserts must we have before changing to different dishes??? It's like in the field of art: the renaissance, classic, neoclassic, gothic, modernism, etc. I'm tired, and I know many of you are also tired of the usual desserts: creme brulee, chocolate cake with raspberries, tortes, pies, etc. I think this world is ready for the new movement in desserts. I guess "Avant Guard Movement" might be a good name - I don't know. But I do feel that as awesome as Chef Kahn's innovating desserts are, I say let's move on and evolutionize the dessert industry!

Well, I made it to Varietal tonight, and I am totally delighted by what I had, the decor of the very contemporary restaurant based on simplicity, the very varied wine list with quite unusual wines, and the "piese of resistance" - the amazing desserts. Although everything was great, I have no words to describe the mixture of flavors, textures, savory, colors, temperatures,and the artistic look, of the desserts. My taste buds felt like they were having a party, and my eyes were going through an art gallery!There was NOTHING I did not like to the max. All the dessert dishes were superb. Chef Kahn is truly a prodigy in the pastry field. He has a way of coming up with an amazing array of diverse foods with many difficult components, and putting them together to come up with a piece of art that tastes incredible. All I can say to all the readers is to just try it for yourself. I highly recommend it to everyone. I especially would recommend for you to make an evening of this - enjoy it slowly and savor it. It will be a real treat!

I'm so glad that Harlan was able to capture so vividly the intensity and passion that Chef Kahn expresses when he's creating. He reminds me of a famous artist I met several years ago in Europe. There are several people out there who can create pretty good desserts. However, there are very few who puts so much dedication, enthusiasm, dedication and artistic love to create food. He is totally focused and absorbed in his creations. Good job, Harlan!

Sneakeater: Thank you for your clarification. I understand what you meant now. I apologize for loosing it! I think so highly of Chef Kahn that I just saw red. I'm sorry. Keep up the good eating and have a great day! FoodPassion

Thank you BryanZ! Sorry about the long paragraph - I just got carried away. You make a good point. I guess the words that bothered me most were the "Comford food" comment, and the fact that kinks are just expected. But you are right, the problems have nothing to do with the chef's talent and capability.

I am really upset by the criticism some of you are writing for Varietal a BRAND NEW restaurant. Thank you doc, for understanding the business of a NEW restaurant and the kinks involved. If some of these critics would have the same problems two or three months from now, I could understand their disappointments. But anyone who has ever owned a business knows that the first month of a new business WILL for surely be rough! I specially have a HUGE problem with "Sneakeater" - Why in the world would you think that you will be served comfort food immediately, late at night when you are tired, at a restaurant that will probably be one of the best in the city in a few months?! That's like going to the Louvre Museum and saying that there were too many paintings to see, too much to walk - that you just wanted to see 10 paintings in one room!!! Varietal is a really NICE, ARTSY and MODERN yet CLASSY restaurant - This is a restaurant where you would go for an evening to the enjoy the amazing combinations of food. It is also a place to go and get a quick appetizer and a couple of glasses of wine - but not to have a complete meal in one hour. The fact that the "Savory foods" are not the Modern Art Sculptures with the most unreal tasty combinations of food that Pastry Chef Kahn prepares is not a negative at all. I think it adds character to the restaurant because it is not the NORM. It is truly a DiFFERENT KIND OF RESTAURANT. NY has a million restaurants and many of them are the same. Varietal offers that DISTINCT CHARACTER that NY City needed. Let's talk for a second about the Savory Chef - his meals are simple, yes - but that's what he wants you to experience. Now let me give you an elaborate background of Chef Jordan Kahn: He does not really know me (and I don't want to identify myself for obvious reasons), but I have known of him for years since he won a Cooking Contest at the Culinary school when he was only 17, and have been following his successes, and I saw him again at the Star Chef dinner - I was impressed the first time and blown away at the Star Chef with this young man's SUPER AMAZING CREATIVE and FLAVORFUL TALENT. I have never forgotten him, and I knew the first day I met him that not only he was going to make it, but he was going to revolutionize and enhance the industry with his flavors, colors, textures and of course his artistic plating. How did I know this? In my years of experience in this industry (and I have been in it for years - in Europe, Asia, and the States), I had never seen such a young person with such passion for creating food-art with totally amazing flavors. Like I said, he does not know me, but I have tasted many of his desserts, and I can tell you I have been blown away every single time - it's no only the esthetic production he creates it is the incorporation and well thought out fusion of all of the flavors. I'm not exactly sure how old he is now - I think he's 22. He's just a kid who thinks and works like someone with 25 years of experience. He's extremely diligent and responsible. I know from his previous supervisors he works endlessly to create and create and create a dish that is a mouth-watering piece of art work. He tries to infiltrate and innundate all of your taste buds using unusual combinations of savory and sweets, multiple textures and colors with common and uncommon foods, and to top it off, he serves it to you like a Rodan sculpture - so pleasing to your sense of sight that you don't know wether you should eat it or wear it. Jordan is so passionate, excited, focus, committed, dependable, accountable (and any other adjective I could not think of for a kid) about what he does, that anyone who talks to him and tastes his creations is in for a rare and an amazing treat. Varietal is extremely fortunate to have him, and I hope they are providing him with the salary he deserves, because this restaurant is going to go far and make it to the top because of Jordan!!! I think everyone should try it - and yes, someone out there is bound not to like it (just like some people don't like wine, or chocolate, or coffee); but I, I love it all! If you are reading this, you should try to visit Varietal as soon as you can, and please think of it as a wonderful present to give yourself for an unforgettable evening to enjoy!