Brad Ballinger

Here is what I recommend. . . Purchase some half bottles (or even collect some empties from a restaurant that has half bottles on its list). Clean out the bottles well. Let them dry thoroughly. When you open a 750ml bottle of wine, immediately fill the half bottle and cork it (or use a vac-u-vin rubber stopper). Your cork will likely not fit all the way into the bottle, so I'd fill the bottle neck fuller than what you normally see. The bottle will keep well until you decide to finish it. I'd advise agaisnt vac-u-vin other than the stoppers. My experience has been that they not only suck out the oxygen, but also some of the attractive volatiles in the wine itself.

As a selling point, I agree. But as a business decision, it's another matter entirely. There are many different types and levels of restuarants for a very diverse clientele. I've been to Mark's restaurant years ago. When I walk into a place like that, I do not think BYO (and I wouldn't even call to ask about corkage). But there are yet plenty of establishments that serve up great food, have professional service staff, and an attractive ambience that have also chosen to allow BYO. I don't think that makes those places any "less" of a restaurant. Yes, there are abusers. And I'm embarassed when I'm out with a group of local wine geeks who show up with 2-3 bottles per person then try to push around the serving staff. I don't do those mega BYO events anymore. I'm fortunate enough to live in a metropolitan area that has many terrific BYO-friendly places. I'm also fortunate that there are many places with very well put-together and consumer-friendly wine lists (where I don't even bother to bring my own). But, as a consumer, I think it is short-sighted to dismiss out of hand any restaurant that does not allow BYO. To those people I would say look at the list, look at the quality of everything you go to a restaurant for, and then make your judgment. Granted, there will still be those whose door you will never darken. But I would also wager there will be those you will enjoy that you might otherwise have missed out on.

Piling on. . . That's what the sommelier is paid for. And your tip should include a tip for her. I'm wondering if there are other issues at play. For example, do you need to make an impression on someone? Even if the answer is yes, you will make a better impression working well with the sommelier instead of trying to figure it all out on your own. But if you want to ask some "knowedgeable" questions of her, consider: 1. We'd like a crowd-pleasing white to start off with. Do you have a clean refreshing white or two you'd recommend. My experience is mainly with Pinot Grigio wines, but I'm intrigued to try a Soave Classico or a Falanghina. What do you think? 2. (It will depend on what type of fish course, but) For the fish course, we'd like to ramp it up a little in terms of complexity in the wine. But we'd like to have a wine made from a grape or grapes mostly associated with Italy. Are there some southern Italian whites that would be out of the mainstream, but still have enough acidity to pair well with the food we'll be served? 3. Finally, we want a burly red. Again, it would be fun to stick with something made from grapes associated more with Italy, and not a Tuscan Cabernet. My mind immediately goes to Barolo and Barbaresco, but my mind also goes to the price tags of those wines. Would a Gattinara be a more budget-friendly, and earlier drinking version, of nebbiolo? Or are we better off trying something from the northeast like a Lagrein or Refosco? Just some thoughts (in more than 100 words). But you get the idea. Use whatever knowledge you have (even if it isn't much) to ask thoughtful questions.

Chardonnay -- Many Louis Latour or Verget wines from the Macon Sauvignon Blanc -- Geyser Peak, Jolivet Sancerre, Galzebrook (NZ) Pinot Gris/Grigio -- Alois Lageder, Trimbach Riesling -- Pierre Sparr, Hugel, Trimbach, Boony Doon Pacific Rim, Pike's (Oz) Pinot Noir -- 10,000 cases??? Saintsbury Garnet? Merlot -- Columbia Crest, Blackstone Cabernet -- Sebastiani, Rodney Strong Zinfandel -- Cline Old Vines, Ravenswood (of course), Dry Creek No Syrah?

If when you first taste a wine you notice a significant amount of tannin (mostly for red wines) or bracing acidity (mostly for whites), you can leave the wine alone for a while. Since you live in Italy and, presumably, have a chance to actually talk to the winemaker (if you purchase wine from the source), that person will be your best authority. That person will have tasted multiple vintages of his or her wine at various points in the wine's development. That experience will render a pretty decent opinion on the current wines for sale. However, bear in mind that many (I would argue most) wines are sold for immediate consumption and enjoyment. It's not that they'll go downhill quickly. It's just that the wine can be enjoyed today as well as a few years from now. This is especially true of wines sold in the U.S. at varying price points and wines not costing a lot of cash elsewhere. You will also learn what works for you the more you taste wines of varying maturity.

Well, $15 goes further at Binny's than at many other places. So you have that going for you. I'm going to mainly recommend non-U.S. wines given your budget constraints. It's not that you can't find good stuff for $15 and under, but my opinion is that you'll find better stuff from Europe, even with the weak dollar. Bubbles Haton Champagne Nino Franco Prosecco Elio Perrone Moscato d'Asti Whites Inama Soave Classico (just the regular bottle) Pieropan Soave Classico (just the regular bottle) Rodet Bourgogne Blanc Chateaux Bonnet Entre-Deux-Mers Bordeaux Blanc Lageder Pinot Grigio Corregia Roero Arneis Basa Rueda Palacios Placet Rioja Blanca Palombo Malvasia "Chiaie" Villa Carafa Falanghina Firriato Altavilla Reds Jouget Chinon (also the Jouget Chinon Rose, if you can find it) Onix Priorat Castano Monastrell Cuilleras Cotes-du-Rhone Chateau La Roque Pic St. Loup Chateau du Trignon Cotes-du-Rhone Marcarini Barbera d'Alba Prunotto Barbera d'Alba Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Villa Carafa Aglianico Sannio Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Niedermayr Lagrein Tollot-Beaut Chorey-Cote de Beaune (it might be a little over $15, but should be under $20) Just some ideas. Also, since you live in the Chicago area, you can just go to Bennett Wines at 2050 N. Halsted, and have Liesel Bennett set you right. She is very picky about what she sells. Much of it is below $20 (maybe now that ceiling has been raised to $25). But you can find lots of great stuff in the teens. Whenever I get to Chicago, Bennett Wines is always my first stop. And if I never get to Sam's or Binny's, so be it.

With some of the recent discussion about merlot as a grape and as a wine, it seems only fitting that the next WOW go in this direction. Columbia Crest has wide distribution, and is a perennial Wine Spectator "Best Buy" (which means the points are usually upper 80s and the price is below $15). Most people should be able to find this wine for under $10 (U.S. currency). I did not designate a vintage because that may vary from maket to market. Go with whatever vintage you'd like. Post your impressions in this thread.

So, you want to start buying more wine, and maybe even storing some bottles for special occasions or to ensure you have a variety of wine on hand for whatever occasion. Or maybe you’ve reached an age where beer and margaritas aren’t doing much for you anymore. I have nothing against beer and margaritas (and still enjoy both on occasion), but maybe you are interested in wine because, well, it’s time to grow up. There are a number of reasons why people develop an interest in wine. There are a number of questions to answer for yourself before embarking on this undertaking, and I will touch on a few of them here. But the questions are by no means the only ones to ask and answer. 1) Do I even like wine? The answer is probably “yes” if you are even reading this article, but permit me to go a bit deeper. Do you like a variety of wine? It’s okay if the answer is “I only like California Cabernet Sauvignon,” and such an answer will narrow the focus of your wine collecting. But, in general, people who pursue wine as a hobby generally like a variety of wines. Notice I didn’t say every type and style of wine, just a variety. If you like a couple different styles of white wines and perhaps a few more of red wines, then you are ready for the next question. 2) What is my purpose in buying more wine and starting a collection? There really isn’t a right or wrong answer to this question, but knowing your answer will help you achieve greater satisfaction from your newly added hobby. Do you like older wines and, therefore, wish to begin a collection so you can have some older wines at some point in time? Do you wish to collect hard-to-find bottles of wine and resell them at an auction? Is the wine for your personal enjoyment, to share with friends, to bequeath, or some combination? Do you live far away from a retail outlet with a wine selection you like and want to have good wine at the ready? 3) Is your partner on board? Does he or she like wine? The time (and money) one partner spends on a hobby – any hobby – can be a cause of tension in the relationship. If you are not in a relationship, do you plan to be down the line? I’ve heard stories of friends of mine who hide the amount of money they are spending on wine from their partner. I’ve also heard stories of getting caught. 4) How much do you want to spend? Whether your answer is in per year, per month, per week, per day, per paycheck, or per bottle amounts, give this question some consideration. Wine collecting doesn’t have to be expensive, but it easily can be. As you read about more wines, you may find a part of you saying, “I have to have that wine.” That’s fine – if you’ve budgeted for it. After you’ve answered this question, go back to number 3. 5) Where will I store my wine? Much fuss is made over state-of-the-art climate control systems that maintain consistent temperature and humidity. If you are collecting as an investment or to age wine long-term, then you may want to consider such a system. If you live in a climate where it is difficult to maintain consistent conditions and low enough temperatures in one part of your dwelling, you may also wish to consider investing in a climate control system. If your living situation is such that you can’t build a wine storage area or don’t have a place to put a stand alone one, many retailers will let you rent storage space from them for a certain dollar amount per case per month. Of course, this means you have to plan in advance when you want to get that certain bottle our of their cellar and into your home. If you are going to store wine in your residence, and don’t wish to purchase a climate control system, find a place that has three things going for it – it’s dark, the temperature doesn’t fluctuate greatly or frequently, and the temperature is below 65 most of the time. Some people are going to take issue with that last statement, but I’ve yet to see solid controlled scientific research conducted over many years that identifies an ideal storage temperature. Now, you are actually ready to buy wine. This means a whole new set of questions. 6) If I want a variety of wine in my collection, what’s a good mix? It’s important to think about the wines you’d like to have on hand. If every bottle in your collection is a “trophy” bottle, you’ll find yourself continually running to the wine shop to get something to drink now because you’re afraid to touch anything in your collection. Consider having some of each of the following (all of which you will find for either immediate consumption or longer-term storage): a. Sparkling wine. You never know when you’ll need to open a bottle for a celebration. While my personal bias is that sparkling wine is also great dinner wine, most people enjoy it as an aperitif and for toasting. Always a good idea to have some on hand. b. Crisp white wine. Whether it is for lighter dinner fare, the patio or deck, or with finger food before dinner, you will have plenty of occasions to open a wine of this style. These wines will vary in their mineral makeup, aromatics, and fruitiness. Learn what you like. c. Fuller-bodied white wine. For food dishes that call for it, as an aperitif, or to open while you read a book. d. Lighter-bodied red wine. While juicy, ultra-extracted behemoths get high scores in the wine press, it’s often the lighter, more acidic reds that make better food partners. e. Fuller-bodied red wine. For food dishes that can deal with it, for reading, for the fireplace, for the backyard. f. Sweet or fortified wine (optional). This is if you like these styles. They have their place with cheese, with dessert, or on their own after dinner. 7) Where should I buy my wine? This is critically important. You want a retailer that stores its wines well (both in its cellar and on its shelves), is knowledgeable, has plenty of what you like, and is fair to deal with (regarding pricing and returns). Some people can find one retailer that fills all their needs, but usually you will have 2 or 3 main ones. Regarding storage, I’ve been in stores with southern exposures where direct sunlight shines on many bottles, cooking them. I’ve been in stores where bottles stand upright and are caked with dust, meaning the cork has dried out and oxidation could be taking place prematurely. If there is a large older-vintage inventory on the floor, be sure to ask how long the wine has been sitting there. You don’t want to hear, “Ever since we got it in seven years ago.” Regarding knowledge, has the staff (or staff member helping you) tasted the wine? Has he or she tasted other wines like it, from the same area, producer, etc.? How long has he or she been employed in the wine business? I cannot place too much emphasis on developing a solid relationship with a wine merchant. That relationship will serve you better than nearly every book, magazine, or web site. As you continue to shop there, the staff will learn what you like and what you don’t like. They will make better and better recommendations. Regarding selection, does the store specialize in a certain region or style of wine? Do they have a large variety? You may find you prefer one merchant for U.S. wines and another for European wines, and yet a third for Southern Hemisphere wines. Regarding fairness, how do the prices compare to other retailers in the area? You may find that one or two retailers are always the highest priced. That may be okay if you are getting added value in how that retailer stores the wine, who they employ, or how nearer they are to your home versus a competitor. Also, ask about their return policy. One of the hazards of wine as a hobby is that you will come across an off bottle (see Wine 101, Disgusting Things in Wine). Will they exchange or refund your purchase if a bottle is corked? Most reputable shops will if you have a receipt, and if the flaw in the wine could not have been caused by poor storage on your part. Corked wine (wine afflicted with TCA) is never your fault. It's not the fault of the retailer, either. But good ones will take it back, and usually send it up the line for a refund themselves. 8) What should I do in the wine store when a staff members asks, “May I help you?” For starters, be prepared before you set foot in the place. Know what you are there to buy, how much of it, what you wish to spend, what the wine is for (dinner at your home, at someone else’s, long-term storage, a gift, something else?). If you are prepared, the staff’s chances of doing right by you go up. And don’t be offended if asked how much you wish to spend. This will keep the employee from making a recommendation that is uncomfortable for both of you. And no one is thinking ill of you for having a limit. The days of trying to upsell you or condescend to you are a thing of the past. The bottom line is that the retailer wants you to return. This will be especially true if you disclose that you are starting a collection. They want to be your retailer of choice. Period. They don’t want you to walk out the door thinking, “I’m never going back there.” 9) Is it better to buy wine by the case? Depends. Most places offer case discounts on wine purchases. Some offer it for mixed cases, but usually the discounts are for a case of the same wine. So there is a savings to be had. But if you’ve never had the wine before, a case purchase is risky no matter how much you trust the staff’s recommendation. Before you purchase that case of unknown wine, buy one bottle to taste first. If you taste it and decide you don’t want 12 more, you’ve saved yourself some money and some instances of drinking wine you don’t like. 10) Okay, it’s the tenth question, and I’m getting tired of reading, what one other piece of advice would you give me? This is the easiest question for me to answer, and it’s an answer I’ve given time and time again. Taste as many different wines as you can. In-store tastings, community wine tasting events, informal tastings in homes, hosting one of your own, these all are great ideas. Tasting a lot of wine helps you to discern what you like and what you don’t like. Write down the name of a wine you like. Even if your retailer doesn’t carry that wine, the staff member may know it and can recommend something fairly similar. You will learn more about wine tasting it than you will reading about it. So it’s time to stop reading this Wine 101 installment, start tasting more wine, and take those first few steps on what will be a fun and rewarding journey.

I deal with this in a couple of ways. Before the server pours, I will say, "a little less than half-full please." When the server comes to top off the glass, I will say, "thanks, but I'd like to pour my own wine." Of course, if I'm in a place where the server knows proper wine service, this isn't an issue. Unfortunately that isn't very often. If it's wine by the glass, that's a tougher issue. I have asked for a second empty glass and split the wine myself.

I think the Billecart is more "elegant" and less "meaty" than the other two you've mentioned. It is certainly lighter in color than either.

In the Twin Cities there are several different groups of wine-lovers that get together on occasion to taste wines along a certain theme. Not all, but many of these groups are loosely associated with various web-based discussion forums. This particular tasting saw a blend of the Wine Spectator group and the eRobertParker group. I don't hang out on either of those boards, but I was on the initial e-mail distribution list because everyone knows I'm a Champagne slut. I ended up hosting this one at my home. The notes that follow are in the order I and many others tasted the wines. I didn't write down much detail, so these are mainly impressions. Blanc de Blancs flight: 1996 Franck Bonville Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. This was the first of several BdB wines served. It was also the most delicate and laser-beam focused. A very gentle, subtle mousse let the core wine's acidity shine through. Lots of mineral and citrus here. An almost rain water-like cleanness to this wine. NV Pierre Peters Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. A strong yeastiness that is typical of this producer and this wine, in particular. A bit more sugar in the dosage than the other wines opened this evening. I think I made a comment toward the end of the evening that went something like, "You know it's been a good Champagne tasting when my least favorite wine was the NV Pierre Peters." Good minerality in the profile. 1998 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. This is "older" vines fruit, about 50-60 years. And this wine has plenty of life ahead of it. Ferocious mousse, sharp acidity, powerful fruit, and a boatload of yeast. It needs to mellow out for a bit. 1996 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. DOA. Pulled the cork -- no fizz, no vapor, no CO2 released at all. This is the third bottle that has done this from a case I ordered. Dumped it down the drain. 1995 Pierre Moncuit Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. About a year ago I had Moncuit's Cuvee Nicole BdB, which was showing some age. Not this wine, though. This is still plenty lively, and just starting to take on a roasted nut/toasted bread complexity. Active mousse, if a bit coarse. "Regular" flight: NV Perrier Jouet Grand Brut. There were two of these present this evening; one with the older label and one with the newer gold label with flowers in the background. We opened the older one. A quintessential toasting Champagne. Everyting was in harmony here -- a silky mousse, bright fruit, light baked bread notes. Exactly what you think of when you think "Champagne." NV Georges Gardet Brut Speical. This wine is made from mostly pinot noir and pinot muenier. A few people were using the word "butterscotch" in describing this wine, and it did have a honeyed quality -- but in a not-sweet, non-cloying way. At first, it seemed to want to overpower with all if its dark fruit, but with a little air time, is settled in nicely. A good mushroom tart wine. NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee. Too much. Too much bubbles. Too much toast. Too much in-your-face fruit. Too much peach pit on the finish. Too much. Too much. Too much. But not too much if you like that sort of thing (he said with a wink). NV Michel Arnould La Grand Cuvee Brut, Grand Cru. All 1997 fruit, though not labeled as such. The most complex of the NV wines in this flight. Tremendous acidity. Velvety mousse. An almost earthy-mushroom like quality to the flavor profile. A lot going happening on different levels. The only RM wine in the flight, and it sort of showed that individualistic character. 1996 Veuve Clicquot Brut Reserve. A very nice wine that was also opened a bit before its time. Chalky texture and minerality. Powerful and long-lasting mousse. This wine had many of us bemoaning the demise of VC's yellow label along the lines of "How can they make a nice wine like this and then also make that swill?" Mini 1985 flight (there were two other 1985s not included): 1985 Diebolt-Vallois Brut Blanc de Blanc, Grand Cru. Recently disgorged and released by D-V along with their 1976 and 1979. This had the toast and ever-so-slight oxidative quality of an older wine, but in a way that added rich complexity. Still a mineral-driven wine, like any other Diebolt-Vallois I've ever had. Impressive. 1985 Heidsieck Monopole Cuvee Diamant Bleu Brut. Two years ago, this wine seemed tired and preparing for the grave. This bottle, however, was anything but, and had at least five more years left in it. This also had a tiny bit of honey on the nose and in the mouth. But plenty of citrus and rocky mineral to go along with it. Rose flight: NV Haton Brut Rose. Cherries and spice. Didn't offer anything more complex or complicating than that. But it was a solid fruit/spice bubbly that would not only be romantic in the picnic basket, but would also go with every food item in there. NV Charles Ellner Brut Rose. This is a dinner wine; don't waste it as an aperitif. Rich citrus, spice, brioche, mushrooms. Another wine with a slight honey component in a good way. There's a lot going on here and going on with full force. And I absolutely love that brioche quality in the wine. NV Vilmart Cuvee Rubis Brut Rose. Heralded as one of the best, most consistent NV rose sparklers on the market. A bit more fruit-forward that the Ellenr, which is no small feat. A tiny bit of oak is thrown in for depth that you may or may not feel is needed depending on how you feel about oak. This wine goes down very easy with its soft mousse that doesn't get in the way of the core wine. 1985 Veuve Clicquot Rose Reserve. Incredible. Full of life. Red fruits, citrus, a hint of smoke, some earthiness. Long-lasting mousse. A killer-thriller of a wine. 1985 Rene Collard Brut Rose. 100% pinot muenier. Loaded with character. Mushrooms, spice, earthy, profound. It's a wine that forces you to take a second sip to answer the question "what did I just drink?" It was the most mutated wine of the flight, if not the evening. But some mutations are what lead to advancements in evolution. Again, these were impressions more than sit-down-with-a-notebook notes. So if I got a little carried away with some of the language, it's merely impressionsitic, not desconstructive description, right?

(Hey, watch it. It's one thing to be helpful, but you don't need to spill the beans ... ) ← Really? You think Tollot-Beaut is under the radar of many Burgundy buyers?

There is also Raymond Burr Vineyards. Had one of their wines one time. Nasty stuff.

Never heard of Lemain-Pouillot. Some Tissier comes into the U.S., but I've never had it. A few missing that you may want to visit if you have time are Alphonse Mellot, Jean-Paul Picard, Roger Moreux, and Francois Cotat (although these are hardly "undiscovered").

Well, it has been a while since I've had it. I thought at least at one time they didn't. But I could be wrong about that. I'll have to check and see if they have always done it, and I'm just mistaken.

BTW, several Sancerre producers source Les Monts Damnes. I know you knew that, but the rest reading might not.

The first comment first, but then back to the topic. Restaurants only have som much cubic feet in their cellars, need to turn over inventory to make money, etc. Therefore, very few are able to delay the profit on a bottle until it is as old as Arpy recommends for the drinking window. Gevrey-Chambertin v. Aloxe-Corton I'm nowhere close to being expert, and arguably not even knowledgeable, so I hope others will add. First, it's a little difficult to compare/contrast village to village within the Cote d'Or. A slightly better approch might be to discuss the characteristics of each AOC (whether it be village, premier cru, or grand cru). G-V is in the northern part of the Cote de Nuits. The only other classified villages further north are Fixin and Marsannay. There are nine grand cru vineyards associated with the village. With G-V and its vineyards covering such a large territory, there are a large number of producers here, so you will see a large variation in quality. But the northern locale *generally* means wines that tend toward more acid longer development, blah blah blah. In great vintages, the wines can be wonderfully complex and long-time agers. A-C is in the northern part of the Cote de Beaune. Both red and white wines are produced from grapes grown there. There is one grand cru for red wines (Corton). But here is where it gets confusing with Corton. Within the Corton grand cru are roughly 30 (maybe a few less) vineyards that can either use their vineyard name (e.g., Corton Clos du Roi) or just use the name Corton. But since there is also a vineyard named Le Corton, many do the Corton Clos du Roi thing. A-C wines can age very well. Overall production is less, vineyard area is less, so you don't see as many of these wines, nor experience the huge variations in quality such as you might with G-V wines.

Who is on your itinerary? I just want to avoid recommending someone who is already on your list. I'll also have Bruce Schneier (eGullet name "schneier") look at this post. He recently returned from several months in the Loire.

I have half a case. Thanks for doing my baseline research, too.

Chambers usually carries it (until they sell out of it).

Color isn't always telling. I recall a few years back some big hubbub over a wine tasting where all the wines were in black opaque glassware. Some "professional" tasters had trouble distinguishing white wine from red wines. For another California Sauvignon Blanc producer that stays away from oak (in their SB anyway), try Cakebread. And if you want a really zippy wine, try Trinity Hill from New Zealand.

Release after release, this is a consistently great wine. Somehow I keep forgetting to list it whenever asked for a list of good small producers from Champagne. Thanks for posting this and reminding me.

Purely in the interest of keeping the thread alive, permit me to share my recent Burgundy purchases (just made these over the weekend, all reds) Cote de Nuits 2002 Rene Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Combe aux Moines" Premier Cru. I was tempted by the Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru, but my wallet said no. 2002 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne Romanee. A village wine that has the most prestigious vineyards associated with it (my wallet says no to those, too). And it's from Mugneret. Cote de Beaune 2002 Tollot-Beaut Chorey-Cote de Beaune. From the village (and AOC) of Chorey-Les-Beaune. One of the great values out there, and probably the first from the 2002 vintage in my cellar I'll be able to drink. 2002 Bouchard Volany Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, a premier cru wine from the village of Volany, which has had plenty of discussion so far. 2002 Bouchard Beaune du Chateau. This is a premier cru wine from Beaune. The fruit, however, doesn't come from any one vineyard but from several. Hence the "propiertary" name of the wine -- Beaune du Chateau. FWIW.

Conratulations, Daniel. I've enjoyed reading your contributions on other wine discussion boards. It would be great to see more from you here.

I'll side with Stuart on this one. I love asparagus, but can't see it as anything but a neg-o in wine. The only thing worse would be asparagus pee.