jamiemaw

Twenty six. Their names will be published in the April edition of the magazine.

Tune into Bravo on Wednesday, March 16th at 7pm for Godiva's, a made-in-Vancouver sitcom about, yes, a trendy Yaletown frat-tratt. Continues weekly. Their website says this: "Welcome to Godiva’s Restaurant. This funky bistro is the high-energy backdrop for a new one-hour comedy/drama that’s sexy and under the influence. Set in the heart of Yaletown, Vancouver’s über-chic 'hood, Godiva’s invites viewers into the high-pressure, fast-paced world of the restaurant biz and the equally entwined private lives of the young, urban tribesters who populate it. From the new-immigrant dishwasher to the dancer “this close” to making it, Godiva’s is home to an unlikely band of exiles who share one thing – a need to belong. And you know what they say: a family that eats together stays together." Jamie PS--Somebody had better tell Neil that he's cooking in the uber-chic 'hood for the urban tribesters and unlikely band of exiles who populate it. I mean, can't we all just belong?

I've wondered about this too butter. I think they did achieve bronze a few years back but that was it. Perhaps we all fear the selection of a different winner of gold in this category as it would most definitely initiate ranting and a middle finger salute by the current titleholder. This was witnessed in Whistler last year at a different awards ceremony. I agree with you too that the judging committee has a formidable task at hand. ← Some readers might complain about the lack of change in some categories, montrachet, however my experience is that the best restaurants are also those most likely to experience longevity in the marketplace, i.e. they are well-managed, and come from passion, not concept. As a result, some categories tend to resist rapid change, albeit for sound reasons. That passion (and pride), as you point out, is sometimes exemplified in unusual ways, always remembering that the last four letters of the word restaurant in fact spell 'rant'. I can't really comment on the individual restaurants and their placement, butter, although I can share with you that I too am a fan of Octopus Garden--it's one of the friendliest and most entertaining of our Japanese restaurants and offers terrific food. And luckily for me, it's nearby.

Check out Middle Beach Lodge--they may still have their two night packages available. Then there's a little more for dinner.

The honey-dipped, preferably warm, are revelatory, butter, although seeing my feet after half a box is another matter.

You will let us know when she is about to become the artist formerly known as the "Future Mrs. Maw" to "Mrs. Maw" ← As we have now been engaged for more than six years, and as my father said the other day "I'm not getting any younger" (88), we have definitely scheduled nuptials for this millenium. Come to think of it, I'm not getting any younger either and I should probably get cracking while she still (seemingly) enjoys doing business with me.

For the most part, restaurants pick their own categories. Accesibility is a good thing for all consumers, not just people paid to eat dinner. So too . . . . . . Warm personalities, again, for both consumers and professional consumers. However as I said previously, marks are tilted heavily towards the food. I don't dine alone very often. Usually the future Mrs. Maw accompanies me. Quite often we go in a group though, which permits us to get around the menu a little quicker. Guilty secret: When I eat in a group (of even two), I get to order first. Then we do business. I have had to learn that awards systems and management aren't perfect. This is hell for a Virgo. But one thing I have also learned is that through dint of hard work of the many volunteers and professionals involved, inclusion of stakeholders and transparency of process, that the program can be enhanced each year and that, hopefully, its ultimate aim is accomplished--to float all the boats higher.

True story, and increasingly challenging to keep on top of. Egullet is certainly a welcome adjunctory knowledge base. That being said, eGullet subscribers are not necessarily the same demographic. I do hope that the Eating + Drinking Guide to BC provides additional insights. Further, and presuming that resources continue to permit, we plan more specialized teams for next year, especially in Asian categories, where openings, closings and chef movements are particularly challenging.

We've always tried to be transparent in our procedures, however hopefully this discussion throws further light on how we manage the process, which, as mentioned earlier, has been refined over the past 16 years. ← I didn't intend to imply that you were not transparent, Jamie. That is not what I think; I'm just interested in the details of the process. ← I understand. Thank you.

Neil, Your keen eye has detected a challenge in the categorization proceedure, and in a category that might affect you. (I also chaired the Jack Webster Foundation for Journalism for several years; categories are an endless topic and rife with challenges). Two years ago, because of the advent of the hugely popular Memphis Blues, we elected to join together "Barbecue" and "Steakhouse" into a category perhaps amusingly called "Meat". This year we have broken those out into separate categories. We corrected that because we didn't think it provided an even footing, especially as steakhouses (due to expensive principal ingredients) are amongst the most expensive restaurants in the city; Memphis Blues operates at a less expensive level, Revy decor included. The judges are not paid an honorarium. Most of our judges dine out between two and four times a week (a few as many as five); we estimate that they might eat between 4,000 and 5,000 restaurant meals per annum. But they have not been selected just for their volume-dining; each has an educated palate and strong sense of "what works" in a restaurant. And although each judge has their own methodology, I think you can rely on each having set standards so as to compare properties on an even and fair basis. It is a different methodology from our wine awards, where the judges taste blind and then discuss, sometimes very passionately, the potential winners in each price category. Here the judges use their year's knowledge and dining notes in a ballot system. We've always tried to be transparent in our procedures, however hopefully this discussion throws further light on how we manage the process, which, as mentioned earlier, has been considerably refined over the past 16 years. I hope that this helps, Jamie

As an experiment today, I drove down to Granville Island, yes, on a Sunday, mid- afteroon. There was a short wait going around the Granville Island Brewing corner. Time to park though was zero seconds. I made my usual sorties: Mr. Lee's, magazine shop, Duso's, milk store, Stock Market, Longliner, La Baguette, Oyama and out the door. Elapsed time including a chat with old pals: about 25 minutes. The 'entertainer' outside La Baguette was annoying. I asked the counterman if he ever felt like strangling his amped neck. "Yes," he allowed, "he is annoying but he does make a lot of money. Maybe the two go together."

LilyKate This is not a review but a first impression. The room is light and lovely, and when I dropped in mid-afternoon Sunday to fetch some HMR goods I largely had it to myself. This corner of Yaletown thrums midweek, I think, but is slightly hidden still on the weekends. I bought a large chicken cacciatore (500 ml; $12), four date squares of quite generous proportion, a large breast (bone-in) of fried chicken, a banana cream tart and a large coffee. Total tab: $42 even. Service was gracious and expedient. Half a date bar vanished on the way out the door--good but it was a bit of a blind date: the bottom crust disproportionately outweighed the filling. Banana cream tart: top drawer with terrific banana flavour. Coffee: slightly dilute, toasty but quite good. The disappointment: the chicken cacciatore was dramatically underseasoned--almost devoid of herbal underlicks, salt or pepper. The chicken had been cut into small cubes (unusual in itself for this dish) and lacked the real heft of bone-in, slowly braised, savoury hunter-style chicken. I had been hoping for something earthier, and as we delve further into the menu, we'll keep you posted.

In fairness, perhaps I should ask this question: Were there any results from last year's awards that anyone strenuously disagreed with? YOU BE THE JUDGE

The criteria by which a restaurant is judged are very similar to those used for The Eating + Drinking Guide to BC, i.e. there is a heavy focus on the food and beverage program; service follows and then decor, ambience and comfort. Each judge has a slightly different viewpoint, and that's one reason why we have so many--to offer an unfettered and rational evaluation. Although I am only one judge of 25, I have a precisely calibrated system that I've been using (and refining) for the past decade. It is identical to EDG: 20 points in each of these sub-categories--food, wine and drinks list, service, decor/ambience. These scores are then evaluated as to 70% food and 10% each to the latter three. On this scale, restaurants that might be considered on the very top of their (local) game, such as Lumiere, West, Cioppino's, Tojo's. Villa del Lupo, C, etc. would score in the upper range of 17.0 to 18.5. I have had single visit dinners in Vancouver that rated 19 on this scale but have not (yet) rated a restaurant overall that highly. The judges do not vote in categories where they are not currently conversant or have a conflict. Thay are very good about honouring this pledge, i.e. not everyone gets to the Okanagan or the Island for a thorough sweep. One judge did declare a conflict this year; he honourably recused himself from a category where he had been doing some consulting work. Lastly, preconceived notions of excellence or the lack of it are dangerous in any business, especially given this responsibility. If you could see the enormous amount of work that the judges perform, especially indicated by the some 75 pages of collated remarks that they have made, I think that you would find their findings quite conclusive. My job is to edit that collation to ensure that an accurate and fair depiction as to why the judges voted the way they did is evident to the reader and to the restaurateur. Thanks Neil, Jamie

1. The Premier Crew Service Awards are decided on the write-in ballot with (usually) extensive comments from each judge as to why that person should be selected. Over time, certain trends develop, and excellence is fairly easy to signal across the board. If you look back at the last few April editions on the archives, Andrew, I think you'll see a consistent pattern that blends professionalism, knowledge, graciousness-under-fire and even, in some cases, longevity! 2. The 10 to 12 nominees (more in the New Restaurant categories) are typically mentioned, space permitting, in the editorial. Cheers, Jamie

Neil, Thank you for your thoughtful remarks--exactly the kind of industry feedback that is constructive and helpful. FYI, The Chef of the Year category can only be won by an individual once. So Mr. Feenie, as the inaugural winner last year, is not eligible this year or in the future. All other categories, with the obvious exception of Lifetime Achievement in the Culinary Arts, Premier Crew Service Awards and Best Supplier/Producer are open for repeat winners. And that's because one of the chief purposes of the published version of the awards is as a guide. Dismissing those who are at the top of each category would not suit this purpose, and would also be misleading. Believe me, we've had many discussions on this topic. To some degree, the publication of the Eating + Drinking Guide to BC has spread the wealth. I come from the dark horses and underdogs school too. But what must be recognized, especially in a medium-sized market such as Vancouver, is who consistently excells over the course of the year. This protocol disallows for gratuitous choices, or one's made along the thinking of, "He's/She's won forever--let's pick someone new." As resources have slowly permitted, we have been able to increase our sweep this year, both geographically, but also through the compilation of Wild Card choices and an entertaining grid of judge's insider picks. As we continue to refine the program, I hope that you continue to find the results illuminating.

OK, folks. We've all learned a lot from our time on these boards, right? I thought it might be great fun, and even educational, to collaboratively design a dream restaurant. Everything, from cutlery to cuisine, is up for discussion. There's only one chief tenet--to some extent it should reflect where we live. Some items for your consideration: 1. Location 2. Cuisine down to specific dishes 3. Decor 4. FOH staff you would hire 5. That chef thing 6. The wine list--greatest hits and loads of value 7. Number of seats 6. Patio? 7. China and glassware service 8. Theme or no theme? 9. Marketing and PR--how would you launch it? 10. Wild Card--what makes it unique in the cacophony of BC dining? 11. Food cost budget. 12. Rent or purchase the real estate? It should be interesting to see if we design a donkey or something with potential. Fire when ready, Jamie

Thank goodness. My translation book says "wolverine".

Even the canopies look surprised to be there. Here's what we have to put up with.

Let's face it. I should stick to what I know best. Oysters. I wish to withdraw the above remarks as they were very unfair and I judged the place unfairly. I apologize tto the management and staff at The Four Seasons as they have proven to me since that they are indeed a world class operation. I am an idiot sometimes but I don't think they should suffer because of my brief stupidity. Oyster Guy ← There's an interesting thread in the UK forum about UK restaurant critics. Many of them seemingly render their judgements based on only one visit. They blame it on expense and mobility issues. But I would maintain that multiple visits are the only way to fairly and accurately evaluate another person's business. Now you do too.

Did the locals mind that you were a tourist? ← In Benito Juarez I was the only tourist I ever saw and the vendors ignored me unless I adressed them directly-except in the food stalls.It's common to be hailed to try a certain trademark dishes-a good way to learn who's cooking what. The Indian Market in Patzcuaro is a quiet orderly afffair all around with lots of space-very informal and few outside visitors. In Medellin gringo tourists are rare as popes*** and apart from a few startled stares no one took any notice of me. The only city produce market I've felt uncomfortable in was the Mercado Central in San Jose Costa Rica. The 'waddling hordes' have invaded the place and now frosty stares, jostling, short changing and worse are rampant. ← Perhaps different cultures handle their xenophobia differently. In some tourism destinations that are in the process of being discovered, that might look like: Curiousity> Gratitude (for hard currency> Suspicion > Resentment (in the form of frosty stares, jostling, and short changing) - indicating dependence) > Worse Fortunately, we live in a society that is relatively accepting of outsiders and generous in our hospitality. Around the world, societies become defined by their xenophobia or lack of it-- it becomes iconic and archetypal: the surly Parisienne waiter versus the gracious Thai hostess. British Columbia has been defined as being safe, friendly and good to look at. Do I mind sharing it, even with people in bad track suits? Not in the least, because I believe that we are all tourists here.

I’ve been it town this past week assembling the vast amount of information required to publish the results of the 16th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards. I thought it might be useful to share the methodology of the awards with you, especially as there still exists some misinformation, but also because the awards now attract so much attention in the media and across the food service industry. The awards were initiated in 1989 and were originally decided solely by the food editor, and in just a few categories. When Jim Sutherland became editor of the magazine a decade ago, he elected to broaden the basis of the awards and invited in a panel of about a dozen judges—professional food and restaurant journalists. Since that time, in the ten years that I have been managing the program, we have further broadened both the scope of categories and the number of judges, who now number 25. Nine years ago, rather than just publishing the results we also initiated the celebratory event. This year we rotated a number of judges, adding two new experts from the lower Island—Shelora Sheldan (who was an exemplary contributor to our Eating + Drinking Guide to British Columbia and who also posts here) and Gary Hynes, the publisher of EAT Magazine. The awards are unique in Canada and the ceremony is the largest event of its type in North America after the James Beard Awards. Here’s how they work: 1. Each year, beginning in September, our editorial committee develops lists of new restaurants and those that may have gone out of business. 2. We also re-examine categories. This year we added Lower Vancouver Island, the Okanagan and Casual Chinese, Italian and Japanese to the list, which now numbers over 30 categories. 3. In November, we list finalists for special categories, such as Best Producer/Supplier (voted on by a separate panel—The Chefs’ Table Society of BC), Lifetime Achievement in the Culinary Arts, Best Cook or Wine Book, Premier Crew Service Awards, Sommelier of the Year. 4. In December we finalize our list of new restaurants and break them down into Fine Dining and Casual Dining, with a dividing line of $50 ADC (Average Dinner Check). 5. In early January, we hold a lengthy meeting of a Judges’ Nominating Committee comprised of the most senior experts. In most categories, 10 to 12 finalist restaurants are posted to each ballot category. Immediately afterward, the entire Judges Committee meets for general discussion. On e week later, the judges receive their ballots and are given two weeks to file them. 6. The ballots are sent directly to our independent accountants for tabulation. In early February the results are sent to us. Only five people know the results prior to publication. 7. In each category, judges vote for their top five selections and votes are weighted one through five, i.e first pick receives five points etc. Judges are not permitted to vote in any category where they do not have sound knowledge or where they might have a conflict of interest. Judges also make extensive comments on their 35 page ballot, which helps me enormously in the editorial writing. 8. The awards are announced at an industry-only event in late March, this year at the Sheraton Wall Centre where approximately 800 people will attend. This year CTV will be covering the event; Vicki Gabereau and I will host it. 9. The Annual Restaurant Awards edition of the magazine is then released that day. Over time, and although we continue to publish a Readers' Choice awards in the autumn, I feel that the Critics’ Choice methodology is highly credible and has been well received because it is expert and because it’s not subject to the foibles of ballot-stuffing. As important as the awards are, especially in the major categories, the event really celebrates excellence and collegiality. Each of the finalists in the room that day has worked ferociously to operate a successful business. These awards are simply a way of recognizing that hard work in front of their peers and the public. Certainly a great deal of volunteer time goes into their organization, voting and compilation. I continue to think that’s time well spent. I look forward to your comments or questions. Jamie

British Columbia is very much a seasonal producer of fruits and vegetables, although there is a rapidly growing hydroponic-hothouse industry for tomatoes and peppers. And because of that seasonality, much of the produce from November to May is imported from the Salinas Valley, Mexico and Central America. From late spring to October we have very good produce, much of it now organic. And we have certainly rediscovered the ocean; many local species such as octopus, mackeral and sardines enjoy currency again. The Asian truck farmers that used to work the Fraser delta are less in evidence today; the reason, just as in many other jurisdictions, is that the next generation typically did not follow them into the business. There are many dedicated souls out there though--here are a few. So in the prime summer months, as you might expect produce switches locally, to the excellent tree fruits of the Okanagan, and a variety of fruits and vegetables from the Pemberton and Fraser Valleys. A lot of that shows up at Granville Island during that five month season. During the rest of the year, though, merchants have no choice but to sell imported or hothouse produce. So there's market competition from lower-rent and -labour shops in midtown and Chinatown. But to some extent that is harmonizing as rents on West 4th and West Broadway are increasing rapidly, from the low $20 range psf to as much as the mid $30 range. That's got to hurt the price of a head of lettuce. I continue to find Granville Island a positive and largely convenient shopping experience.

Thanks Deborah, That's it! A very beutiful terminal, but where's Kelly McGillis? Come to think of it, it would make a mighty fine market! Jamie

Don't mess it up? Leonard C GM ← Leonard, I believe that Andrew was referring to the chequered food reputation of the developers of the Watermark property on Kits Beach They also run the Elephant annd Castle pubs. ← Jamie, you really hit it on the mark about their attention to the deep fryer. I think that habit carried over to the sons and their restaurants. I am a little shocked that a restaurant group with their pedigree was able to get the Kits Beach location. I honestly thought it would have gone to Brent Davies, given his entrenchment in the City's parks already. I look forward to seeing how this will shake out. ← I'm speculating, Neil, but perhaps it didn't go to Brent (Cardero's, Sequoia Grill, Seasons in the Park) because he has cornered the market on city leases, and on GI with the Sandbar, a federal lease. And I certainly don't want to speculate any further on the Watermark. But I sincerely hope that it becomes a waterfront asset, with lots of local ingredients and over 30% food costs. After all the fuss and bother at City Hall, anything less will not only let down the location, but look politically foolish as well.