Coque

[pedro]

Even though Coque has been mentioned and discussed at some length in several threads here and there in the forum, it doesn't have a thread of its own. Certainly, it deserves it.

As you already know, Coque is the restaurant lead by Mario Sandoval, the 27 years old chef already awarded with a Michelin star, something especially valuable in a country like Spain where Michelin seems to keep a tight fist in regard with their grades. Located in Humanes, a town south of Madrid which probably you wouldn't visit were it not for having Coque in it (according to Mario Sandoval, the taxi ride from will cost you around 70€ round trip).

Coque, which opened its door back in 1949, has always been run by the Sandoval family, now in its third generation. A traditional asador which clearly flew under the radar, undeservedly so if we judge the exceptional quality of its cochinillo, known mainly by locals and which never made it to the press.

All this changed with the arrival of Mario Sandoval to the kitchen 50 years later. A cooking style which in its best redemptions combines a brave use of avant garde techniques with references to local flavors, dishes and traditions. Definite and precise tastes, deep flavors which link the best of regional cooking from Madrid and La Mancha with contemporary avant garde Spanish cuisine: Alta Cocina. In this arena, Mario is a master. Dishes like the emulsion of squash and Dublin Bay prawn, where the emulsion is a stock where the iberic flavors give another meaning to the rest of the ingredients, or like the kid confit in smoked milk with migas (bread crumbs), pork belly and grapes.

This work led Coque to its first appearance in a newspaper of nation wide coverage in June 2003: Fernando Point's article for Metropoli "A (very) great one in the South." From there, Coque starts gaining major recognition, appearing in the Campsa Guide and Michelin Guide in 2004 with a Sol and a star respectively, and in the media.

Albeit, not everything is perfect in Coque's menu. Some dishes seem to be a pure display of the redoubtable technical skills of Mario. All in all, the slight sense of disorientation created by these is quickly replaced by the satisfaction of one of Mario's signature dishes.

A while ago, Víctor and I had an amicable dispute about Coque in this thread. I'm happy to report that we both survived the duel, which instead of taking place at high noon took place at the much more civilized hour of 10pm. The menu was a success, with the unforgivable sin of Mario excluding the cochinillo from it.

After that meal, let me answer a couple of rhetoric questions here: Is Coque, as Víctor wrote, "the most interesting, personal and talent-laden place in Madrid"? Most likely, it is. I would keep a close eye on Lucas González and his Amets in El Escorial, too. Is the best of Mario Sandoval yet to come? I think so, and I really hope he choses to continue with the line of work that we both think shows the best of his cuisine and doesn't get distracted by siren calls. He's already suffered the bitter outcome of paying attention to those.

[butterfly]

logistical info:

There's also a regional train (C-5 from Atocha station) that goes to Humanes every 20 minutes or so. It's a 30 minute ride.

[vserna]

A good report on a nice meal, Pedro!

If rumors about another major La Mancha-inspired chef moving to the Spanish capital were proven to be more than rumors, then the discussions on which is "the most interesting, personal and talent-laden place in Madrid" may certainly become more intense in the near future.

[Bux]

logistical info:

There's also a regional train (C-5 from Atocha station) that goes to Humanes every 20 minutes or so. It's a 30 minute ride.

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This is very useful information. I'd assume the the trains might run less frequently in the hours after dinner. That would be good to know as would the availability of a taxi at the station. For a visitor, the ride might be more pleasant in the afternoon for lunch, not that I recall the drive being very scenic.

It's certainly a meal that one might devote the better part of a day to enjoying. Whether it's "the most interesting, personal and talent-laden place in Madrid" is a question I can't answer for lackof experience. I've eaten in some of the best places in the city and I haven't had a meal quite as interesting or successful in that vein and I've eaten in some of the best, or at least most reknown restaurants in the city. The natural comparisons we made were to the two and three star restaurants we've experienced all over Spain, as well as to the one star restaurants that have two or three soles or more aptly to those we felt offered us a multistarred dining experience regardless of anyone's rating.

It would however seem to me that meal there without the exceptional cochinillo is like the fine French meal without a cheese course.

[pedro]

If rumors about another major La Mancha-inspired chef moving to the Spanish capital were proven to be more than rumors, then the discussions on which is "the most interesting, personal and talent-laden place in Madrid" may certainly become more intense in the near future.

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Víctor, the chef himself says that the deal is almost completed, providing some details about the future location. However, perhaps "moving" is not the exact term. If it finally takes place, I think his idea is to open a second restaurant in Madrid without closing his other restaurant. Where will he stablish his headquarters, is another matter for which I don't have enough information.

[Bux]

For those who play these guessing games, Pedro is our official representative at the JEREZ/ALTA COCINA/SHERRY course on the subject of the relationship between Jerez wines (Sherry) and Alta Cocina (haute cuisine) at The University of Granada. Highly prominent on the list of participants are a couple of eGullet members and a number of chefs whose restaurants get mentioned in these forums. I believe only one of them has a restaurant in La Mancha.

[vserna]

Remember - we didn't say anything, Bux!

[Bux]

Then we didn't hear it here first.