Marco Pierre White Steakhouse, Bar and Grill, Chester.

[david goodfellow]

I vividly remember my first Marco meal at Harveys on Wandsworth Common, I was young, not really full of confidence and very worried indeed that they had not lost our booking.

Marco's reputation was quite fearsome and that very night a party of ? turned up claiming to have a booking and were swiftly sent on their way.

We met up with our friends who live in North Wales and they booked the restaurant for us knowing that I am a lifelong Marco fan.

Now we all know Marco is not at the stove any longer, however his name is above the door so the standard needs to be high.

Marco's very good friend of more than twenty years Francis Carroll runs the operation for him.

Carroll used to run Cabbage Hall in not far away Little Budworth until fairly recently. We had a very pleasant meal there about a year or so ago.

Formally Hoole Hall and now Doubletree by Hilton the property has undergone a massive refurb and it truly is very nice indeed.

The original 18th century Manor House and grade 2 English Heritage listed conservatory has been skillfully extended to incorporate a very busy Spa and posh hotel.Set in its own landscaped grounds its a great place to stay.

We took a room viewing after the meal and can confirm the quality for prices charged is excellent.

MPW restaurant is a pleasant spot to while away the hours and as its only been open a matter of weeks everything is crisp and new.

Perhaps Mothers Day was not the best day to visit especially when nearly three hundred covers need taking care of,but hey ho we don't see our friends too often and the menu looked ok so why not.

With a choice of six starters, mains and puddings you would not struggle choice wise.

Me and N had the Hatherton blue cheese tart with watercress and toasted walnuts and even though I say it myself this was the best starter on the list.

R had the Sauteed chicken livers with toasted brioche and sherry dressing, which I did not taste but was declared to be very pleasant.

Mrs G had Smoked Salmon ravioli with beetroot carpaccio, soft herbs and olive oil. This held out a lot of promise but as soon as I saw the ravioli I knew it was going to be poor.

The ravioli (two) looked like Mexican hats and whilst not tasting like one they were thick and rubbery and the filling was well, boring.

Ignoring the Rump of Ridings reserve Beef, Sea Bass, Risotto of Smoked Haddock, My three guests chose the Roast Cheshire Pork with caramelised apple and crisp sage.

They asked the waiter if it came with crackling, and after a visit to the kitchen it was confirmed.

Sadly the crackling did not materialise, still these things sometimes happen.

I had Traditional Lancashire hot pot with roast shallots and red wine. It arrived in a copper pot with a medley of veg, picture, carrots, cauliflower, green beans and broccoli.

This was very enjoyable with top quality Lamb, real depth of flavour in the sauce, crispy potato topping.

Puddings were, Rhubarb crumble and fresh cream, Sticky Toffee pudding with toffee sauce, and treacle tart.

I did not try the Crumble, I had the Toffee pud which was good to a point but a bit dry on the inside which let it down slightly. Thankfully in true Marco style there was ample sauce to help it on its way.

The treacle tart was excellent, it really was, yum, yum.

Coffee was included in the price which arrived lukewarm and had to be sent back. The next lot were not a lot warmer but we could not be bothered to make a fuss.

We were treated to some rose jelly petit fours which were very enjoyable.

I did not go here expecting Michelin quality food so was not disappointed, it does show promise though and even for the mistakes we still enjoyed it and would return.

Service was smiley and agreeable again a few mistakes but nothing was too much trouble and there is a desire to please.

Meal for four including a couple of entry level bottles of wine , tip and tap water £150.