Coffee in Tokyo

[emsny]

Can anyone name some Tokyo coffee houses of the kind one reads about: where the drink is brewed with meticulous attention to bean, roast, grind, timing, temperature and any other elements that go into what aficionados view as a perfect cup? We're headed for Japan next week and ought to have a list of such places.

[JasonTrue]

I've been mostly disappointed by coffee in Japan and I suspect, with the smaller numbers of old-school kissaten these days, that the obsession with detail as far as coffee is concerned, is either part myth or has largely declined since the 1990s.

I think the 1980s were the peak of the Japanese coffee era. Most coffee in Japan is made using one-touch machines, even at some of the expensive kissaten.

However, there are a few well-regarded shops. I'm not sure I can recommend any since I haven't been to most of the ones that have been written up in English.

I have been to Macchinesti in Akabanebashi, which is fairly good for espresso by Japanese standards. They now have two locations near each other, I believe. However, in my opinion, it's not quite as good as Vivace in Seattle, from which it derives its inspiration and perhaps even its featured blend. They do roast the beans themselves in Japan, though.

At a little gallery-owned cafe in Mashiko I had some surprisingly decent vacuum-pot coffee, but I suspect that's a bit out of your way unless you're going pottery hunting.

[prasantrin]

I'm not a big coffee drinker, but I have always been impressed with Nishimura and Inoda. I've given Inoda sampler packs to coffee drinkers who have raved about it. Both have several branches, though only in Kansai--Inoda is in Kyoto while Nishimura is in Kobe.

[Hiroyuki]

I don't know of any that can possibly meet your criteria. As I stated elsewhere, one of my favorite coffee houses was Renoir, which has many shops in and around Tokyo.

I posted your question here: Nontan's bulletin board

I hope I can get some replies.

[JasonTrue]

Jazzed in Japan laments the decline of the old-school kissaten and refers to one whose owner would prefer to be serving beans picked in 1968. I read this article several years ago, and I'm not sure if that shop still operates. There's another cafe mentioned there as well.

Since I haven't been to either one, I can't offer any particular recommendations. I do have an acquaintance who may have some opinions, but I'm not sure I'd be able to reach her easily.

I just remembered last year I saw the Japan Barista Championship at Hoteres. (I only watched a few competitors, but one barista pulled off a truly impressive plated dessert built around espresso and sculpted cream roses). This close to the event you may not be able to get a free ticket, though. It's March 13, 2007, noon to 5 pm, Tokyo Big Sight. Entry to Hoteres is relatively inexpensive (about 1000 yen) even if you don't have advance tickets, but you will need to have a business card handy and they may expect you to be part of a hospitality company, public service institution such as a school or hospital, a restaurant, equipment manufacturer, or trading/distributing company*. Screening is minimal, and a business card is usually enough to get in.

Japan Barista Championship 2007

If you attend, you'll likely be able to find which cafes are represented in a printed program. You won't likely be able to taste anything (except average espresso prepared by espresso machine equipment reps in the exhibition hall nearby).

Unfortunately I cannot attend FoodEx/Hoteres this year, because I've scheduled my trip to Japan in late April this time.

* Even software and computer hardware companies are represented there, because they offer POS systems; if you can find a way to fit into one of their categories, including "other", you'll probably be fine.

Edited March 6, 2007 by JasonTrue (log)

[JasonTrue]

Also try searching on the "quick tokyo restuarant search" for coffee, espresso, cafe, etc at Bento.com.

http://www.bento.com/info-search.html

Both locations of Macchinesti are listed, as well as Mary Jane.

This one sounds promising:

Satei Hato (Shibuya - Coffee shop). 3400-9088.

If you're looking for real coffee - rich, strong, and with a kick - Satei Hato is the place. Hand-picked beans and careful preparation translate into superb quality. Not only are the brews top-notch, they're served in the world's most exquisite china. Savor your java in a Y190,000 cup from the porcelain kilns of Arita, while the aroma of freshly made chiffon cakes and gentle classical BGM help calm your nerves. [feedback]

ilinkphotomapSunShibuya 1-15-19. Open 11am-11:30pm daily.

[Blether]

It's true that these kinda places have become much less widespread (less prominent ?) since the city was over-run by Starbucks, Tully's and smaller chains like Segafredo, on top of the older native chain Doutor.

If you're serious, you'd probably be best in the Ginza / Yurakucho / Hibiya area - I'd say that's where you're most likely to find them now. I don't frequent gourmet coffee shops, but some years ago I worked in that area and can think of three places within a couple of minutes of each other, one of which would fit your description, with the other two notably unusual enough to reward a visit. How much will it hurt if the meticulous one's no longer there ? Will you be near that area or likely to make a special trip ?

Is this the kind of image you're thinking of (NYT article from 1985) ? Thanks for bringing the subject up, I enjoyed that - like being in a time warp (a dollar fifty, 'quite expensive' ?) Mind you, Dai-bo (mentioned on page 2) at least is still in operation - open till 10pm, apparently. Must try it some time

If by "George V" they mean the anachronistic basement coffee, cake and souffle specialist in Higashi Shinjuku, it was just newly closed down (for good ? for renovations ?) when I passed it last month. I always loved the way they have a short-stay hotel (still in operation - some things just don't go out of style) in the above-ground floors.

(Editing *again* after some more digging) This place looks pretty serious, too Ko-hi-ten. They have branches in Shibuya and Shinjuku, and are proud of their 'original toast'. Sure sucked me in.

Edited March 6, 2007 by Blether (log)

[Blether]

... and if this link works, it will give you a list of, err... what's 15, squared ? A lot of coffee shops - the result of a search in Gourmet Navigator for 'specialist coffee shops' in Tokyo alone. For want of guidance, I'll pick 'Coffee Aristocrat Edinburgh' in Kabukicho (Shinjuku) (third listing), where the "brick arches speak of the shop's 30-year history". Aww !

Generic note for Tokyo coffee shops: beware of the smoke.

Edited March 6, 2007 by Blether (log)

[sanrensho]

I would suggest cross-posting in the Beverages / Coffee & Tea forum. Phaelon should be able to point you in the right direction at the very least.

During the time I lived in Tokyo (late 90s), there were a fair number of shops that were strong on drip and vacuum-brewed coffee. Espresso was comparatively weak. Unfortunately, I was just getting into over-roasted Starbucks coffee at the time, so I didn't appreciate the light/medium roasts that are more prevalent in Japan as much as I could have.

Edited March 6, 2007 by sanrensho (log)

[emsny]

Thanks to all. I hadn't realized that the focus on coffee preparation had blurred in Tokyo. I'll follow up, though, on the various suggestions - then probably look forward to returning home to a new shipment from Counter Culture Coffee.

[JasonTrue]

I discovered I have a magazine-format book: もっとTOKYOカフェ. It features a bunch of cafes, though it's mostly focusing on dramatic interiors and pretty food photos. I don't see the details of the coffee itself discussed much in this magazine.

One near/in Shinjuku is the Kagurazaka location of Saryo. I can't speak to the coffee, but it looks like a beautiful setting. See http://www.saryo.jp/

It'd be a long walk from nishi-shinjuku, so you might want to grab a taxi or take a subway to Iidabashi or Kagurazaka.

162-0825 Tokyo-to Shinjuku-ku Kagurazaka 5-9

Phone 03-3266-0880

Open 11:30am to 10 pm (last order 9pm) generally, or later on Saturday and Sunday.

〒162-0825 東京都新宿区神楽坂5-9

【電話番号】03-3266-0880

【営業時間】 月～金

土・日・祝 11:30～23:00（L.O.22:00）

11:30～22:00（L.O.21:00）