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Chodorow's Response to Bruni's Review


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If The Modern is full every night, it means the dining public — or at least, those who patronize that restaurant — think it is worth spending the price that other three-star restaurants command. The Modern is a particularly good example, because it doesn't have tradition, celebrity cachet, a globe-trotting chef, or stratospheric Zagat ratings behind it. The people who dine there must, on some level, actually believe in what Gabriel Kreuther is doing.

Kreuther does seem to have some sort of magical power to beat the critics, though. Atelier was full all the time too (and some of the best meals I had in the years around its peak of operations were there), despite the fact that it got an only-okay three-star review.

Ramsay, IMHO, could be in serious trouble unless Bruni re-reviews the place. The London is already stepping into a crowded market (more than ADNY did, even) and he is the sort of celebrity chef who needs decent buzz.

Mayur Subbarao, aka "Mayur"
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