Mont St. Michel / St. Malo

[David Bizer]

Does anyone have any experience with reasonable hotels and good eating around Mont St. Michel? Also, if one was considering a weekend trip, what else would you want to see in the area? Anyone ever been to St. Malo?

Thanks for any tips.

[Bux]

Roellinger in Cancale is about the best eating in either Brittany or Normandy. For a Relais & Chateaux inn, his rates are not unreasonable either, although one can certainly find less expensive accommodations. The rooms and the restaurant are likely to be booked full on short notice this time of year anyway. Roellinger is to the restaurants in the area as Mont St. Michel is to the other offshore rocks.

For inexpensive eating in Brittany, almost any good creperie can't be beat for lunch value.

I've been to St. Malo, it's nice, but not all that interesting. I suppose it's relative. It was bombed out in the second world war, but rebuilt nicely. We were there just before the start of a major sailing event. It was sponsored by Cutty Sark. The tall ships and sail boats in the harbor were the attraction for us and we hardly entered the city but for a few minutes. These were incredible sailing ships, however. The tall ships came from all over the world and many were manned by cadets of the various national navies. Many were open for tours and the harbor area was exceptionally festive. Nothing seems to draw a French crowd as much as Latin American music and the tall ships from South American drew huge crowds. Nevertheless, St. Malo is a pleasant town and I'd recommend a promenade around the ramparts if you are in the area.

[hollywood]

I would second the nod for Roellinger in Cancale. When I was there too many moons ago, there was a main place and then a second two story stone house a short distance away (in which we stayed). There was an onsite woman who was exceptionally helpful and it was nicely decorated and at the time very inexpensive. And, of course, it enabled us to eat in the wonderful restaurant.

As for St. Malo, the ramparts are nice. From them, I took a photo of some topless sunbathers. I gave this to a single guy in my office. For whatever reason, his cat ate it.

As for Mont St. Michel, wherever you stay, you might want to bring food with you. The food on the Mont is both mediocre and expensive given the captive audience nature of this otherwise beautiful spot.

[CooksQuest]

I spent more than a month in St. Malo about 14 years ago (living with a French family). Most of my meals were home-cooked. I still remember those 2 hour lunches (and one hour naps afterwards). I have very fond memories of fresh haricots verts, soufflés, creamy goat-cheese, and lots and lots of Chinon wine (yep, from the Loire -- sort of far away from St. Malo).

Oh yeah...holy sh*t. They have Chouchenne there! That's a honey wine. Unbelievable. Almost makes you hallucinate... I can't find it anywhere.

Also fell in love with a German tourist... Haven't seen her either.

[Gary Marshall]

A la duchesse anne, in the walls of st malo is a fabulous place, it had a michelin star for 20 odd years but lost it in the 01 guide. i wouldn't let that put you off if you want classic french cusine and sauces, eg the best steak bearnaise i've ever had, turbot beurre blanc, tarte tatin.

The place is full of regulars and i suspect michelin's downgrade will not affect business one jot and has more to do with the unfashionableness and simplicity of the cooking than any actual fall in standards.

it is one place all my foodie friends rate very highly

[Gavin Convery]

I can second all recommendations relating to Roellinger - Cancale is anyway a nice place to stay with some other good reasonably priced restaurants on the front - I seem to recall La Vague as a place for Fruits de Mer. Not sure about the hotels as I've usually stayed in gites but I did stay in the house hollywood is referring to, it is right on the cliffs overlooking Mont St Michel in the distance and I seem to recall was about 800FF a night (whatever that is in Euros) and the main hotel which is just at the south-west corner of the bay is about 1350FF - the rooms are nice and many have views over the bay - there is a simple but good restaurant in the hotel. Website: http://www.maisons-de-bricourt.com/

Other good places to eat are along the road from Mont St Michel to Cancale serving simple seafood. But if you love food Maison Bricourt is the only place to go...

[bleudauvergne]

We'll be going to St. Michel for the weekend and have tomorrow evening free. I tried to get into the restaurant gastronomique at Maison Bricourt but of course he's fully booked. I know, I must think ahead about these things.

I have made a reservation at la Duchesse Anne in St. Malo.

[Gary Marshall]

We'll be going to St. Michel for the weekend and have tomorrow evening free.  I tried to get into the restaurant gastronomique at Maison Bricourt but of course he's fully booked.  I know, I must think ahead about these things. 

I have made a reservation at la Duchesse Anne in St. Malo. 

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well i'm jealous !

i sent some friends there the other week and they loved it , i hope you do too.

despite bricourt not being open there is a lovely parade of simple oyster/moules bars along the seafront in cancale, next to the oyster beds.

it is well worth a visit for some oysters and muscadet and a pleasant stroll

gary

[bleudauvergne]

despite bricourt not being open there is a  lovely parade of simple oyster/moules bars along the seafront in cancale, next to the oyster beds.

it is well worth a visit for some oysters and muscadet and a pleasant stroll 

gary

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Thanks Gary. I sent a message to my husband to let him know that I want to make sure we're packed and ready tonight. I want to push off as early as possible in the morning in order for us to get there in plenty of time for lunch as well. The oysters idea is just right.

I was a bit worried about the time it was going to take to get us there. The last time (3 years ago) we took 4 days to get there, but now I realize we didn't take any main roads and we were in a 1980 Peugeot 104... This time we'll take be taking the autoroute and be there in a half day.

[Gary Marshall]

if you're still in lyon it's quite a trek, even on the autoroute.

viamichelin suggest about 7 1/2 hours!

enjoy!

gary

[MobyP]

Quite near to Mt St Michel is the small town Villedieu Les Poeles - the base for the incredible Mauviel copper cookware - cheapest place in the world to buy it.

[bleudauvergne]

Quite near to Mt St Michel is the small town Villedieu Les Poeles - the base for the incredible Mauviel copper cookware - cheapest place in the world to buy it.

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Alrighty then! Thanks for the tip, Moby! We'll have to go there too.

I've just received a note from Loic.

Ma cherie,

Le menu a la duchesse Anne est 67euros. Au Gault Millau, ce restaurant est

note 13/20.

Par contre il y a des restaurants a 14/20 et aussi un restaurant une

etoile. Je te communiques ce que j'ai trouve pour savoir si tu as essaye.

1. Le Chalut, 1 etoile, 14/20 Gault Millau, menu 32/48, Carte 47 a 60. Tel

: 02 99 56 71 58

2. Delaunay, 14/20, carte 36-55 Tél. : 02 99 40 92 46

Il y en a d'autres, mais que penses-tu deja de ces deux la?

Hmmm. The gist of this message, for non-French speakers, is that there are two other restaurants that might be options, Le Chalut, and Delunay. Just for full coverage of this area, does anyone have first hand experience at these restaurants??

[Busboy]

My family and I stayed at Auberge St Pierre (02 33 60 14 03) on the island last summer and, while my parents and children slept, my wife and I scrambled over the whole deserted, moonlit island, fueled by red wine and a brisk sea breeze. The next morning I woke up just after sunrise -- not difficult as bells begin ringing and delivery carts begin rumbling up the cobblestones at an early hour -- and did the same trip with my parents, in search of the perfect photograph (not found) and a hassle-free place at the front of the line for a tour of the abbey and an uncrowded tour (found).

We had arrived just as the tour busses were leaving and departed just as the next wave was washing up on the island the next morning, dodging sheep along the causway as we left.

In case I haven't gushed enough, I highly recommend staying on the island for at least one nigh, it's simply magical. Auberge St. Pierre is perfectly fine hotel and, while not cheap, is not usurious either. ViaMichelin has them charging 90-125€ night. You may want to request a sea view to avoid the early morning rush hour (or see the sea). They do have parking spaces close in; it's a bit of a hike, but you won't have to roll your bags from the mainland, either.

The food situation is, indeed, dire. Since my visit, however, chef Michel Bruneau has left Caen's La Bourride -- where he won two Michelin stars and served my wife and I a wonderful meal -- for La Mere Poulard on Mont-Saint-Michel. Perhaps someone on the board has an update on that transition. My French is not entirely reliable, but this article appears to be encouraging.

Have fun! Eat some lamb (pre-sale, bien sur) for me.

[Gary Marshall]

from memory delaunay is the restaurant my friends (who told me about duchesse anne) go to when not in DA, they go every summer, usually culminating in multiple trips to DA.

just remembered, actually when they were there this summer also dining was M. Vrinat, owner of 3* taillevent in paris. They recognised him as we celebrated my friends 40th there last november.

the owner confirmed it and said he is a regular visitor, 6 times a year as he has a house nearby, they return the favour with an annual visit to taillevent.

don't expect gourmet tasting menus but if you love the classic brasserie you'll like it, the steak bearnaise is, well i can't recall a better one the meat was just so, mmmmmm salty

gary

[Bux]

Roellinger has other places and suggestions in Cancale. Check his web site http://maisons-de-bricourt.com/ before you leave. Mont St. Michel is pretty overrun with tourists. It's far better now than in July or August, but I'd suspect spending the night and being there when the bus loads are gone could be exceptionally wonderful. We actually haven't been at Mont St. Michel in about forty years. It was less crowded then. We have stayed in a town that was overrun by tourists and it was sublime at dusk and dawn when the streets were relatively empty. It was Collanges les Rouge. Have a great trip.

[menton1]

The best thing about Le Mont St Michel is the atmosphere of the place after the tour buses leave. You then go back in time, the place becomes quiet, and there are no cars. Because of this, I would opt for a restaurant "on the rock" even though it may not be top flight. La Mère Poulard is quite acceptable, we were there several years ago and had a grand meal of local seafood that we pecked away at for an hour!

When you leave the restaurant, go out on the ramparts. If you're lucky, the tide will be coming in, and it is supposedly one of the fastest moving tides in the world. A moving experience.

I have also mentioned Villedieu-les-Poèles in another thread, it is THE town in France to buy "Cuivres", they are top-quality, beautiful, and should last forever. (If you have room in your luggage).

I assume you are staying at a hotel on the rock.

[lalala]

We stayed in St. Malo a few weeks ago and ate at Le Coquillage (Roellinger's little brother restaurant) at Chateau Richeux. Don't pass this by, it was pretty tasty cooking and quite reasonable. We tried to stay there, but it being September was booked up. We have made reservations for December. Taller half is quite enchanted with Cancale and St. Malo.

The Bistrot is closed (not the right term, its a very elegant chateau with amazing gardens) on the night we're there, so we're going to eat at Relais gourmand on this trip. Its tough but someone has to do it.

We went to Mont St. Michel, it was beautiful,but very crowded at the base. We slogged up and it got better, but I'm sure it'll be better in the fall.

Thanks for the St. Malo restaurant tip -- I'll be using it this trip.

lalala

[bleudauvergne]

Well, as luck has it, Loic convinced me that we must go where no man has gone before and try out Le Chalut in St. Malo. Believing that the restaurant would have no tables one day out, I promised if he could get us a reservation I'd agree to go. He called and the waters parted - they have a table for 2 for tomorrow. It was so easy to get a table he says he hopes it wasn't a mistake... I will be reporting on this meal after the weekend.

(lolo cancelled la Duchesse Anne...)

Auberge St. Pierre sounds like it was just wonderful, and now I am fascinated with the idea of going back for a meal at la Duchesse Anne and also Delaunay. Loic's grandmother has a cottage in Lancieux and we've been there only once. She's invited us for next summer.

Le Coquillage sounds like an option for lunch... We'll be leaving at 05h00 sharp in order to get there in time.