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Spring, Paris 9e


pierre45
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I am happy to report that Spring is still in full swing despite it being the middle of winter. We had lunch there this afternoon and the food and the service were both great. Upon sitting down, we were offered some rillettes, deliciously rich yet not too rich, just rightly salted and too good to pass up.

When I heard what our lunch was to be, I scanned the wine list and ordered the Champagne Spring Blanc de Blancs, a wine made specifically for the restaurant. Crisp and lively, its acidity handled most of the medley of flavors we were presented with.

First course was celery soup with duck, an inspired combination. The duck was juicy yet crisp, and married well to the celery. The smells coming off the bowl were to die for, I might add.

Next we had sea bream and pig's foot, which sounded bizarre but turned out to be another delicious combo. I joked with my wife that the presentation would be unusual: an actual pig's trotter on top of a fish. Somehow, she did not think this was amusing. The actual dish was beautiful to behold, something we were coming to expect from this tiny kitchen. The foot had been reduced to something akin to a loose terrine, the sea bream barely cooked. Its flavors were intense yet delicate, and this kind of surf and turf worked real well.

Dessert was a slice of fresh pineapple covered by a slice of dark chocolate ganache, with chopped fruit over it and a dab of sour yoghurt on the side. Fantastic, but difficult to eat as I was getting full by now.

We ended up chatting with Daniel, who was charming, friendly and warm, and really rounded out the whole experience. I will go back the next time I'm in Paris.

The rest of my Paris stay can be seen HERE.

Cheers! :cool:

Edited by Vinotas (log)
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My wife and I were at Spring for lunch on Friday Feb. 8th. As Vinotas stated, they are in full flower this winter. We started with glasses of the Spring champagne served with the same wonderful rillettes and a choice of breads.

The first course was a take on oeufs meurette. A perfectly poaced egg atop a buckwheat crepe. A ragout of wild mushrooms, lardons and a luscious viniagrette.

The main was a sliced magret with burdock, chard, parsnips and caramelized baby brussel sprouts. This was enlivened with just a touch of lime zest.

Dessert was a shot glass of a chocolate pot de creme with cream floated on top and pistachios. Think of your southern grandmother's chocolate pie filling and that is the flavor memory that this invokes. This was served with sliced pears and fromage frais (think pears and cottage cheese on steroids). A sprinkling of lime zest brought this together and tied it to the main course. We had a Mark Kreydenweiss Alsatian with lunch that was a fantastic counterpoint.

After lunch we chatted with Daniel about his upcoming trip and the projects he has in the works. As always we talked about egullet and how much he has enjoyed the site and the visits from members. This was a very reasonably priced lunch in the scheme of prices in Paris these days.

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I just read on daniel's blog that he now has installed two webcams to transmit  live feed from the restaurant, one in the kitchen and one in the dining room. pretty cool!to see it go to: www.springparis.fr

I agree, but I had a weird experience tonight, while looking at the webcams and seeing Daniel and someone else with a motorcycle helmet at 6 PM, Paris time, attempted to telephone him about a couple of things and while I could see his face live in full color, the telephone and/or answering machine were not in play. Funny feeling.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I called Spring one day last week for an April reservation. I looked at their website and called per the hours listed to do so. I received a recording, only, that their may be a few lunch spots late Feb.

On a sudden thought early this morning..before 7:00..I called. Voila, it worked. I told him when I would be in Paris and asked what were my opportunities!! I have a reservation for lunch on April 25th!!

Just as a matter of information, I also have lunch reservations for Drouant and La Fontaine Gaillon. I have dinner resrvations at La Regalade, Au Gourmand (2 reservations for dinner).

I have only started............

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I called Spring one day last week for an April reservation. I looked at their website and called per the hours listed to do so. I received a recording, only, that their may be a few lunch spots late Feb.

On a sudden thought early this morning..before 7:00..I called. Voila, it worked. I told him when I would be in Paris and asked what were my opportunities!! I have a reservation for lunch on April 25th!!

Just as a matter of information, I also have lunch reservations for Drouant and La Fontaine Gaillon. I have dinner resrvations at La Regalade, Au Gourmand (2 reservations for dinner).

I have only started............

Please report back on La Regalade, I've had a bumpy time there since the change.

And yes Spring will be closed until April.

And yes again, the telephone answering machine was unplugged last week.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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  • 3 months later...

Well, the adventure of Daniel Rose, continues.

Tonight he hosted a wine tasting of some of the 29 wines he carries at Spring at competitive prices, that is, not like some wine bars/etc., that have sizable markups.

One may buy them after one eats there or drop by when he is open and buy/order them.

The most intriguing is called "Who I am?"; and they include champagnes, Corsican and Portugese wines.

This is a terrific resource for the locals, which is why he said he did it.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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  • 3 months later...

Called last week to try to get a reservation and was told that the earliest they can seat me for dinner is february of 2009.. they said they do lunch on thursday and friday with about a month and a half reservation but I work those days. Was really looking forward to trying out Daniel Rose's food but i guess i wont be able to.

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For July 4th, we brought an American flag to Spring.  Ask/tell Daniel you'd like some reminder of the holiday; he's cool to comply.

I don't think I'll go that far, John :smile: . Perhaps he can dress up like a Pilgrim, though.

Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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Spring as everybody knows by now, will be moving into larger space next year, but until then we can sample the genius of Daniel Rose at the old stand in the 9th. Since he never serves the same meal twice, it’s cruel and futile to say what one had, but cruel and futile I am. We started off 11 days ago with eggplant two ways: as caviar and as a sliced base for a piece of rouget with zesty herbs atop plus a tiny portion of wonderfully flavored, peeled (by Marie-Aude) shrimp. Then a canette: quickly seared and then poached (sous vide) in its own juice accompanied by its foie gras and a grape and pomegranate seed topping with an almond puree and piece of different eggplant aside. Finally beignets of chocolate and poached pears with thinly sliced chestnuts that were quickly sautéed in oil and a bit of butter – just like ‘chips’. With a bottle of fine wine (of which we took two bottles home), an extra white with the dessert and two coffees = 105 €.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I had dinner with a friend a couple weeks ago and lunch with another friend today. All I can say is that he is a very gifted young man. You have a wonderful meal for a reasonable price. I don't care what you do or don't like or what your diet might be. I think you will eat it and you will enjoy it.

I am leaving tomorrow after having been herre for a wonderful month. I talked with Daniel about the time frame for next spring. He said he would probably have a better handle on in another week. Hoping for March..I will return mid April for a month, so things should work out.

Joan

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  • 1 month later...

Don't know if I should post it here or in the Spring thread as it's not a Fooding event per se, but hey, this is the most recent thread, and I feel lazy.

So, thanks to le Fooding, I was able to get a reservation (well, my better half was, when I was still sleeping!) this morning for tonight at Spring. Quite a luxury. Even better, one of the meal was offered. So wow! 86EUR for two with lots of wine (I'd like to point out that we were billed 10EUR for two glasses of corsican red that were refilled three times each...) and an excellent menu. I was almost ashamed not having to pay the full price.

Daniel and his assistant (didn't get her name) are great hosts, I hope they succeed in their future restaurant. That said, I can't see why they wouldn't...

So thank to Le Fooding and to the Spring team! (and to the aforementioned better half!)

(if anyone's interested, I'll post some comments and pictures of this meal this weekend)

Edited by olivier (log)
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We had lunch at Spring on the 5th. Catherine Constant and Carolyn Byrne(Paris Perfect) joined my travel friend and me for a fun time. Catherine rarely gets out and this was an event for her. She looked around and asked if this was it..all of it?? Quite surprised with what she was seeing.

We had a superb meal, great conversation and a fun afternoon! Our meal:

We started with a potato soup with some thin crisp slices of potatoes topped by a poached oyster and a spoonful of chopped sauteed greens on top of that. Deliceux! It was followed by boneless breast of canette (bien rose) over a nicely cooked half parsnip, garnished with slices of betterave and young bettrave leaves (beets)with a touch of pureed artichaut and a dollop of creme fraiche. Need I say deliciex? Dessert was quartered apples crisp in the oven by a sprinkling of sugar; apple sauce and a dollop of cream on the side; followed by a demi-tasse de chocolat chaud topped by a mini financier. We had a bottle of Chablis Premier Cru and a bottle of Bourgogne Faverelles and our meal was served by Daniel Rose himself.

Lovely meal - lovely afternoon.

On Saturday at Les Cocottes we visited with Christian. Asked what Catherine had said about Spring. He commented that she had really enjoyed it. We talked about T

the new location. Christian did know where the street was. Maybe, just maybe Christian will join us in the Spring for a visit to Spring's new location!

A very talented and charming young man. Stay as you are, Daniel..you have a great following!

Joan

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  • 2 weeks later...
I would guess Mssr. Rose has got himself a publicist too!

I somehow doubt this very much. First of all, he doesn't need one. Since becoming an overnight sensation, everyone who hoists a pencil has made a path to his tiny kitchen. And second, he is charming, amusing and articulate, far better suited to handle his press than any intermediary.

eGullet member #80.

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We managed to get a cancellation for lunch last Friday. I had eaten at Spring in early '07 and so I was interested to see how it would compare to my memory.

I am glad to say we had a really good meal, the food is very good and Daniel's great personality makes it a fun experience. We shall definitely return and look forward to the new restaurant and expanded team.

We started with a red mullet served in/on an intense chicken stock with diced vegetables including radishes, and bitter greens. The fish was crispy and perfectly cooked, and the stock had a really interesting flavour.

Our main course was a duck breast, cooked sous vide? it had a really interesting texture almost like first class veal, it was served an intense jus, and amazing potato puree with spinach (I think) and a small quenelle of rough pate like meat which was very dense and unctuous.

Desert, was caramelised pineapple, with a mango and passion-fruit sauce and a sorbet (can't recall the flavour). A very refreshing end to the meal, or was until the walnut cookies and deeply bitter hot chocolate arrived and finished us off completely.

Bill for two was €142, €70 for the food and the rest on booze - a couple of champagnes, a bottle of Irancy, some Macvin de Jura, and a couple of coffees. Overall pretty good value especially compared to some of the other restaurants we tried over the weekend, although with the £/€ almost at parity it makes London seem cheap...!

Edited by PhilD (log)
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Here's a great article from the Int. Herald TribuneI would guess Mssr. Rose has got himself a publicist too!

I would very much like to see a cookbook or book happenm Rose is a very interesting person.

Like Margaret
I  somehow doubt this very much. First of all, he doesn't need one. Since becoming an overnight sensation, everyone who hoists a pencil has made a path to his tiny kitchen. And second, he is charming, amusing and articulate, far better suited to handle his press than any intermediary.

I think you've got to be kidding. A publicist? People like Darroze need publicists, Rose needs a heartless Chicago bouncer.

As for a book, there's one with photos in the works, albeit the slow works.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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Uh, I wasn't really saying that with an attitude.

Spring was getting US press in mags like F&W at least a year ago but after awhile, when you need a Chicago bouncer to keep the aisles clear, a guy who is the owner, chef, mouthpiece, etc. doing 5 services a week with a chef de cuisine and a waitress as his sole staff is going to need someone to help keep him concentrated on what has got him here in the first place, his cuisine.

2317/5000

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Uh, I wasn't really saying that with an attitude.

Spring was getting US press in mags like F&W at least a year ago but after awhile, when you need a Chicago bouncer to keep the aisles clear, a guy who is the owner, chef, mouthpiece, etc. doing 5 services a week with a chef de cuisine and a waitress as his sole staff is going to need someone to help keep him concentrated on what has got him here in the first place, his cuisine.

At the time of our visit earlier this month, he no longer had a waitress, but was doing both food and wine service himself. It was a little slower than usual, but an evening at Spring shouldn't be rushed.

I believe that much of his success has been due to his adherence to simplicity and the control it allows him. Even his upcoming move is predicated on kitchen and storage space rather than expanding the number of covers.

eGullet member #80.

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I think Daniel strives on challenges. In oct I visited his future restaurant and as an architect/engineer i told him that he is facing an expensive and demanding project.

He loved the 17th century bldg and the environment that it will create.

Imagine eating in a restaurant with vaults and walls that were there during the french revolution and at the center of the activities.

I am pleased to see that he continues to perform well as a chef despite all the demands placed on him from this new project

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He doesn't need a PR person. Book in works, PBS series too!

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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