All panko is not created equal

[JAZ]

When I first tried panko bread crumbs for frying (a few years ago), I was hooked. When I lived in San Francisco, I could find bags of panko at most markets. I never really paid attention to the brands I got (although there always seemed to be some Japanese writing on the packages, so I assume they originated in Japan) because they all seemed to perform the same.

Now that I've moved, I'm more limited in the stores I can get to easily, so I mostly shop at the Publix down the street. I wanted panko for something, and after wandering around for what seemed like days I finally found a plastic jar of panko made by Ian's Natural Foods. I was so happy to have found them I didn't think twice about buying them, but when I used them I was very disappointed.

The "real" Japanese panko I was used to was flaky -- you know if you've used panko that it's designed for breading and frying, and the shape means that it performs beautifully for that job. Ian's, in contrast, is like little pebbles (think Grape Nuts). It doesn't want to stick to foods (even floured and egg-coated), and even when I got a reasonable amount to stick, the resulting crust was unpleasantly hard instead of nicely crunchy.

Now, I'm sure that I can find decent panko here, but what's the deal with this disappointing fake panko stuff? Has anyone else encountered this? Is Ian's the only brand to avoid?

[Bombdog]

Jaz, the Publix I shop at has bagged panko, similar to what you described in the oriental section.

[orangeman747]

Whole foods also has the large "grapenut" ones you described in the bulk section. However, this size can be quite useful at times... I use them to coat crabcakes and they give the exterior a wonderful crunch that the other kind cannot.

[K8memphis]

I got the grapefruit kind and I was thoroughly unimpressed.

[sanrensho]

I recall that there was another thread along similar lines. The poster lived in eastern Canada and was thoroughly disappointed with the panko she bought from a natural foods store.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Because you were in a Publix, I assume that you are now living in Atlanta, Janet ...

That said, there is a concentration of oriental markets on Buford Highway .. if I desire something completely authentic, and one can't get that at a Publix really, I have bought Hanayuki Panko Bread Crumbs at stores on the Buford Highway corridor ... they were quite acceptable, as one might imagine.

Oriental shopping locally .. most centered on Buford Highway ...

Edited February 2, 2007 by Gifted Gourmet (log)

[CaliPoutine]

Because you were in a Publix, I assume that you are now living in Atlanta, Janet ...

Or S. Florida? Or N. Florida? Or South Carolina.

I've tried that same panko made by Ian's. In fact, I bought it at a whole foods in Aventura, FL. I bought it because it was availble in Whole Wheat. However, it is not a japanese panko, definately not the same.

[JAZ]

Because you were in a Publix, I assume that you are now living in Atlanta, Janet ...

I've tried that same panko made by Ian's. In fact, I bought it at a whole foods in Aventura, FL. I bought it because it was availble in Whole Wheat. However, it is not a japanese panko, definately not the same.

←

I did see the whole wheat version, as well as a seasoned type. It isn't as if it's not usable -- it made an acceptable topping for macaroni and cheese (mixed with a lot of butter, that is) -- but you said it: it's just not Japanese panko.

And thanks for the information, GG. I know the markets along Buford Highway -- it's just that I don't get to them very often. Next time, though, I'll stock up.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Just checked the panko in my pantry ... sounds like a mystery novel title: The Purloined Panko in the Pantry ... anyway, it is from, and under the label of, my favorite newest food resource, Trader Joe's ... and it was really crisp and quite good when I used it on chicken breasts ...

Edited February 2, 2007 by Gifted Gourmet (log)

[Eilen]

I was going to recommend Trader Joe's also; the panko is just like the imported boxes available, only much less expensive.

[Hiroyuki]

I know this is off-topic, but let me add that when you make tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet), deep-frying is the way to go to get that crunchy texture, with all bread crumbs sticking out rather than being flattened.

[budrichard]

There are different types of Panko flakes. Tthe type we use is called a 'Honey Panko' from Japan and gives a nice color and nice taste. All others are flat when compared to this type. -Dick

[Blether]

Panko. My understanding is that here in Japan there're broadly two types: hard (dry), and soft (wet, well, naturally moist anyway). Does that account for some of the confusion here ?

Personally I think they're kind of expensive for what they are, and I've had a lot of fun experimenting with different panko simply by putting a slice or two of bread in the blender. White, brown, soft, dense, sweet, nutty... you name it. Mostly I make plenty while I'm messing up the blender goblet, and put a bag or two in the freezer for stock.

Should I also mention that I'm very pleased with the tip I picked up from a professional chef who came on the TV to demonstrate 'kaki fry' (deep fried oysters) ? Take plenty of breadcrumbs in both hands (with the floured-and-egged oyster or oysters in the middle) and squeeze quite firmly to ensure a full coating. It certainly cuts out any spitting of oil, which seems nice to me, as well as making a great crust.

Edited February 4, 2007 by Blether (log)

[SuzySushi]

Panko.  My understanding is that here in Japan there're broadly two types: hard (dry), and soft (wet, well, naturally moist anyway).  Does that account for some of the confusion here ?

Personally I think they're kind of expensive for what they are, and I've had a lot of fun experimenting with different panko simply by putting a slice or two of bread in the blender.  White, brown, soft, dense, sweet, nutty... you name it.  Mostly I make plenty while I'm messing up the blender goblet, and put a bag or two in the freezer for stock.

Should I also mention that I'm very pleased with the tip I picked up from a professional chef who came on the TV to demonstrate 'kaki fry' (deep fried oysters) ?  Take plenty of breadcrumbs in both hands (with the floured-and-egged oyster or oysters in the middle) and squeeze quite firmly  to ensure a full coating.  It certainly cuts out any spitting of oil, which seems nice to me, as well as making a great crust.

←

No one does "official" welcomes around here, but I'd like to welcome you to eGullet! Great first few posts...

[Hiroyuki]

Besides dryness, particle size is another factor. Come to think of it, I usually buy all-purpose medium-size, dry panko, and store it in the freezer.

[Blether]

Thanks Suzy, that's very kind of you It's good to meet you. (And I'm jealous of your American-size kitchen already )

Hiroyuki, hello As I remember it, using soft panko for the kaki fry was one of the big points of the TV demonstration (with cutey co-presenter making a big thing of feigning surprise - "heeeh ? You use soft breadcrumbs to make a crispy coating ?!") for those of us who hadn't noticed that soft things can get hard when immersed in hot liquid. Or, err... something like that.

Back to being serious, I've found I get plenty-big crumb from any CBP loaf (soft, fluffy, light, typical mass-produced modern loaf) for anything I've wanted to do.

[Hiroyuki]

Thanks Suzy, that's very kind of you      It's good to meet you.  (And I'm jealous of your American-size kitchen already    )

Hiroyuki, hello    As I remember it, using soft panko for the kaki fry was one of the big points of the TV demonstration (with cutey co-presenter making a big thing of feigning surprise - "heeeh ?  You use soft breadcrumbs to make a crispy coating ?!") for those of us who hadn't noticed that soft things can get hard when immersed in hot liquid.  Or, err... something like that.

Back to being serious, I've found I get plenty-big crumb from any CBP loaf (soft, fluffy, light, typical mass-produced modern loaf) for anything I've wanted to do.

←

Hi, Blether, you seem to like to talk about oysters. As for me, I like menchi (meaty corokke (croquette)), especially those made with soft, coarse panko that you can buy from a decent butcher shop.

***

Coarse panko are not always the right answer. Very fine panko are usually used to make kushiage (skewered fries).

[cats2]

The "real" Japanese panko I was used to was flaky -- you know if you've used panko that it's designed for breading and frying, and the shape means that it performs beautifully for that job. Ian's, in contrast, is like little pebbles (think Grape Nuts). It doesn't want to stick to foods (even floured and egg-coated), and even when I got a reasonable amount to stick, the resulting crust was unpleasantly hard instead of nicely crunchy.

←

Interesting...the November 2006 issue of Cooks Illustrated, they compared Wel-Pac, Kikkoman, Dynasty, and Ian's brand panko. They came to a similar conclusion that Ian's will give you a very cruchy (not delicate ) crust. They didn't note any difference between the other brands of panko.

There's a Ranch 99 market on Buford Hwy! (surely you're familiar with Ranch 99 while living in the Bay Area?)...although it's a Chinese market, I wouldn't be surprised if they carried proper panko. Though on the Ranch 99 website, they did mention that the Buford Hwy branch is "independently owned/operated", so it's not owned by the parent company.

[Blether]

Oysters, ne.... (eyes glaze over)...

... (snapping back to the present). Err, yes. Menchi-katsu. I live near Marusho honten and one of the ready-made foods of theirs I like a lot is the menchi katsu - tasty and very reasonably-priced. I like to buy a fillet of tai (sea bream) from Hanamasa for simple frying (salt, flour, olive oil) as a treat but I found their frozen menchi korokke not to my taste - they tasted too much like 'motsu'. So I like to buy fish from a meat shop and meat from what was originally a fish shop. Now, 眩暈をしてきた, I started to feel dizzy

Anyway I'm more careful where I find my oysters

You're right about 'horses for courses'. Heavier bread, allowed to go a little dry, and a blender run for longer will all make finer crumb, but you know or can guess that, right ? 　

[Khadija]

I posted the complaint about a year ago about an organic version of "panko," which had the texture of grapenuts. I'm not sure of the brand, but it sounds like the same stuff -- it was made in the US. I asked what "panko" is, exactly. The only necessary conditions for breadcrumbs being panko I could think of were: being somehow Japanese, and being light and flaky. Those breadcrumbs did not meet either condition.

I think the response to my post indicated that "panko" is the term for breadcrumbs in Japan, and is used to describe any breadcrumbs.

The grapenuts stuff is still not Japanese, and is not relevantly similar to the stuff typically identified as "panko" by Western consumers (light, flaky stuff). So, until Westerners start to call breadcrumbs "panko," I think using the label for the grapenuts stuff is false advertising.

[Hiroyuki]

Grapenuts??

Here is a photo of my panko (medium size, dry):

I made 30 shrimp fries for supper last night, using this panko.

(Sorry, not a good photo. I'm not much of a photographer.)

If anyone wants to see how panko is actually made, here is a video (although the captions are in Japanese only). Click one of the three PLAY options provided on the right.